Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Suspension All you susp. gurus out there... your opinion/experience on valving please

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Old Jun 7, 2008 | 04:03 PM
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minim8o
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From: 40°-55'-44" N / 73°-24'-07" W [on LI]
All you susp. gurus out there... your opinion/experience on valving please

To get right to the point w/o a lot of background... hi-end dampers like Penske 8100 can be valved for linear, hi-flow, digressive, and velocity dependent, the same or differently for either compression and rebound. For anyone that has experimented with different valving on the Mini, what do you think is the optimal type of valving?

If you care for detail or background, read on... Hi all. 99.9% sure I'm ordering a loaded MCS JCW Monday or Tuesday. Not having it come with the sport or JCW suspension is just perfect for me. Here's why:

Option 1) Get something like Cross coil-overs. Only single adjustable but what the heck. Still highly regarded and tops, and not like I really make use of my dual-adjustable dampers I have now.

Option 2) I have a C43/55 w/loads of significant & notable modz. One is a custom suspension that uses Penske 8100 dual adjustable dampers which the motorcycle champ who built the suspension kit (adjustable spring perches plus other 'stuff' too) did a lot of experimenting over a year and found digressive/digressive valving to be the best for its handling characteristics. As they are badly in need of servicing, I'm seriously considering leaving the rest of the suspension mods on the C43 there, and taking the 8100s off [replaced with some basic 3-way adjustable shocks] and having the hardware spec changed on the 8100s with end connectors and threaded spring perches added, to use them on the Mini.

Therein lies my question about the valving. The shocks have digressive/digressive valving now. I could however have that changed when I'm having them serviced, if any know for sure linear or some other works better for the Mini's weight transfer/balance and turn-in behavior.

I'd then have a pretty slick & sick set of coil-overs on the R56S JCW where I'm more likely to appreciate it and put it to use... as I'll rarely be driving the C43/55 going forward, and I never ever did track it like I'd thought I would other than one AutoX stint in heavy rain (where she did a lot better than most all of the Porsche group attendees and was only outdone by the highest of the Porsche's line and some modded Subies [lol]), so they're really going to waste on that car.

So that's the story. Informed opinions greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 08:16 AM
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I can't offer any input on your situation, but I am quite jealous of your Speedybenz setup on the C43/55. I've got a '99 C43. (just put a new trans in it... groan)

Good luck
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 06:14 AM
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To get you in the ballpark.. You could try to get a dyno graph of a known good performing damper. From this curve, you can closely duplicate this curve with the 8100 valving. This will get you a baseline to start developing the package. The bump and rebound adjusters can fine tune from here. When you begin looking for tenths, you can then start experimenting with shim stacks, pistons, bleeds, pressures, etc.

Tad
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 07:22 AM
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Send the stock dampers to Koni to get them reworked and revavled with the 8100 curve. Or get the 3130's from KONI which are great and have threaded bodies for 2.5" id springs.

another option is to get MOTON dampers, they are now carry applications for club sport dampers for the MINI, which could be fitted to the r56 chassis.

they have bound and reboud, you can then mount ERS spring from Eibach or others.

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product

Ohlins will also custom fit your application if you desire.
 

Last edited by Bhatch; Jul 16, 2008 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bhatch
Send the stock dampers to Koni to get them reworked and revavled with the 8100 curve.
Why send the shocks out? The 8100's are easily revalved at home.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by lenhart05
Why send the shocks out? The 8100's are easily revalved at home.

the 8100 fit your stock mounting points?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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From: 40°-55'-44" N / 73°-24'-07" W [on LI]
Now we're cook'n w/gasoline ... Thanx for the interest & contributions. Len mentions what I was going to say... the 8100's I are a modular racing shock, so it can have any flow-rate & valving I need... was wondering what valving type the MINI likes the most.

Here's the shock:
http://www.penskeshocks.co.uk/cardamper/2way.htm


An example of the modularity to rebuild'm: http://www.resuspension.com/8100-p-1-c-79.html
Presently, I don't have an eyelet at the top of the shock for its mounting point in the W202, but can add it for use in the MINI if I decide to go that route. I would also be adding a top & bottom threaded spring perch as need for the MINI (the one uncertainty I have, as to what the MINI may need to offer the height adjustment) where my springs are in the stock location, but with added custom adjustable perches.

Last but certainly not least check out the Technical Manual, and see page 15 on for flow-rate & valving, especially page 21 - 25 for the valving option types:
http://www.penskeracingshocks.com/do...TechManual.pdf
A lot can be learned from the doc. ...as mentioned before, my shocks are valved as digressive/digressive presently.

...yes, they are the shiznit! ...fashizle!

 
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