Sometimes the spring in the BOV breaks, even from new, or the pot diaphragm breaks. This can cause all the issues, you speak of, but not necessarily the only thing.
Also vacuum loss to the BOV, can cause the dead spot, you are speaking of.
The computer is confused and keeps (all the time) trying to find out why and at the rate of every 5 seconds. I think until, you can correct the computer glitch, anything can happen.
The nav system sucks and that is all I can say about that. I would keep trying to get info to correct the vin/computer issues, so that the new gauge pod can stay! (It looks good).
I dd read a post by a guy that had success with this change, but have lost the post to time. If I can find it again, I will forward it to you.

 

Update: 6-7-2019

I went out to the R52, (aka, Mini from Hell), and proceeded to remove the air bypass valve from the car.....I had an extra one here that was on the wrecking yard motor that I bought for this car last year....I don't throw anything away, you should see my garage and shed storage.....

After the old one was off, I cleaned up all the mounting surfaces and installed the other one that I had here.....I checked the "spring tension" between both valves with my thumb, really didn't notice any difference, but I installed the spare one anyway......had an issue with that OE squeeze clamp at the base of the air valve, couldn't get it to latch back together, so I pulled it out and put a "worm screw" clamp on there.....works fine. I cleaned out the throttle body with some carb cleaner and put that one back on as well. Got everything buttoned back up and the car started just fine

Seeing as it was running, I figured I must have gotten everything put back where it belongs.....washed my hands, and took the car out for a trial run, again. I took it easy for the first few miles.....seems to run OK......then I started jumping on it a bit harder, so far so good......hasn't bucked or cut out yet......now I was starting to really drive it hard as traffic would permit....I was hitting 5,000.....6,000.....even 7,000 RPM's in first & second gear.....engine never missed a lick.....runs great......I think even a couple times the front tires were spinning on the pavement in first gear......I'm happy with how it's running now......I'll keep driving it for a while to see how it does.....I hope this has solved the runnability issue with this car...I really want to be able to enjoy this car instead of chasing my tail around

Now, with all that said above, I'm not 100% sure which part fixed the car, was it the ignition coil pack that I put on yesterday and never got to to a test run because of the rain, or was it the air intake valve assembly that I put on this morning? Not really sure, so I will swap the old ignition coil back on and see how it runs after that.....if it still runs fine, then the air valve was the problem, if it runs bad with the other coil pack, then the valve was fine and the coil pack is bad.......I'll swap coils this weekend.....I've done enough for one day so far.....LOL

Bryan (getting closer to the end.....I hope) (just realized that it's been 11 months since I brought this car home......)

Update to the update above......I swapped the ignition coil pack back to the one I took off the car yesterday......took the car out and drove it again....HARD!! .......car still runs fine with no issues as in the past.....came home and even plugged the Schwaben scanner into the OBD II port to see by chance if there were any codes or pending codes left over from yesterday.....nope, nothing.......the only codes in the car now are in the body module for the missing rear tail & brake light bulbs......the module does not recognize the LED lights in the rear even though there's a resistor back there to stop the hyper-flash

I had to know whether the coil pack or the air valve was the culprit or not......thinking maybe I'll find a new air bypass valve to keep as a spare....seeing as I have the other R53 MINI here as well

 

Update: 6-8-2019

Well, I guess the celebration was short lived....took the car out today, and it started back in with cutting out and going into limp mode.....same codes again

P1688 - DME: Electronic throttle monitoring level 2/3 air mass calculation error
P0107 - DME: Absolute pressure in intake manifold low
5E19 - ABS_DSC Can data error from DME/DDE

I put the other coil pack back on, no difference, I put the other MAP sensor back on, no difference.....wondering now if it's possible that I have two bad air bypass valves here? I took the other one apart that was on the car yesterday, I didn't really see anything wrong with it....spring was good, bellows inside was good......but I have no way to measure spring tension, it's a moot point anyway....I broke the black plastic cover for the valve getting it apart......

So, order a new valve and try that? The valve I put on yesterday did make a difference for about a day......I heard somewhere about using a zip tie to hold the valve from working.....do I zip tie it shut or open?? Where should I try and order another bypass valve? Ebay has them for around $50, but I'm sure that they are cheap offshore junk......need recommendations please

My DSC light is still on as well.....gonna order a front ABS sensor and install that.......

Bryan (back to square one again)

 

To fix your Chrono code issue, install the nav unit, use ncsexpert to dump the config. Print screen the options install the Chrono and use ncsexpert to make the options match the nav, that will fix your dsc error. Make sure you leave the Chrono setting alone but the rest need to Match what the nav had.

No way that I know of to fix the miles

For your check engine how old is your crank damper? I got all the same codes when mine failed, visibly it was fine it failed internally

 

The first time I had this happen, everyone said the damper was bad and broken.....I took it off, checked it very carefully, and even tried to pry the belt grove away from the main pulley body....it did not move at all......I even had another pulley here and did the same test, that one did not move either, so I put the spare OE pulley that I had here on instead of the one I took off....first drive out after I replaced the pulley it did the same thing......so two bad dampers?? I'm not seeing how that's possible

I changed out the air bypass valve yesterday morning.....first drive out it ran great, and all day long until this morning after about 7 miles of driving, then it started acting just like it did when all this runnability issue started.....

I really thought I had this issue fixed with the bypass valve

Bryan (that's what I get for thinking.....again)

 

Hi Bryan,
Are you sure the intercooler seals have not blown out on the underside? The low pressure must be a substantial leak., or the BOV's are dead! Maybe the pcv is bad and will not let vacuum in the throttle system. (which would inhibit the manifold pressure)

 

Wayne, I just had the intercooler and seals off yesterday when I was changing out the air valve, no rips or tears in either seal, no air leaks at either seal when engine is idleing.....

I took a break from the R52 today after it started running bad again.....did some work on the Daytona trunk lid modification....was cutting some of the inner bracing under the lid and cut through the outer lid at the center of the trunk lid..... just great.... I'm hoping I can save this truck lid now.. I don't have another

My luck with cars today sucks.....

Bryan

 

well if you are absolutely sure the crank damper is not failed inside, then it might be your pulley slipping on the shaft, it would have to slip a LOT to throw those codes though, or a grossly incorrect belt length.

Go buy a boost gauge, every auto parts store has one and they are cheap, and easy to install

 

My belt is new, it's a Gates K060539, stock supercharger 11% pulley......as far as the dampers go, as I stated, I have 2 of them here, both are put together tight as I tried to put a screwdriver between the belt side and the damper side of both units.....neither one would move at all. I'm unsure how one would "test" for one coming apart internally, if you know a way, please explain

I had to use a fairly stout puller to remove the damper from the engines, and I had to heat up the damper to make it easier to install back on the crank snout......used loctite on the bolt holding it in as well. While I have read that these dampers fail quite often, I checked each one using a small hammer and both had the same "ping" when tapped while being held up.....I know that it may not be an "exact scientific" test, but it's worked in the past for me. I do have a small boost gauge here, I'll try and connect it up to see my readings.

Back to my previous question about the "wire tie" for the air bypass valve ......for test purposes, do I tie the valve open or closed?

To me, it just seems "odd" that I have had this running issue ever since I got the car back on the road, and as soon as I put the spare air valve on, the issue went away completely, for about a day....and I drove it harder then I ever have for that day......I have a new valve coming, along with a couple front ABS sensors......

Appreciate all the comments and ideas so far....thanks

Bryan

 

Update: 6-12-2019

Not a lot to report yet....still waiting on parts.....

One thing I did do when I put the other damper back on after finding out that my dampers were not broken, was I put a "paint mark" on the belt pulley and on the damper ring itself right next to each other.....reason for doing that was I wanted to see if the belt part of the damper was "slipping".....I looked at the paint marks this morning and they are still right next to each other on the damper......so unless this item can go bad another way, I don't think a bad damper is my runnability issue here

I took a zip-tie and wired shut the air bypass valve closed so it won't open, took the car around the block and it fell on it's face again.....DSC & Check Engine light came on immediately .....codes are in the pictures below.....now I can't even get the codes to clear.....I even plugged in my other 2 MAP sensors here with the same results.....codes will not clear at all

Now I'm doubting the new air bypass valve will even cure the running issue.....or maybe I have an electrical wire(s) issue somewhere under the hood....

I'll wait and put the two new front ABS sensors in when they arrive, then go from there

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
It is possible the throttle body has failed, or is failing, or the fuel peddle circuit under the peddle. Both can cause this too!



accelerator module They corrode also:


Just a thought!

 

Yea, I have thought about those two things as a possible issue with the car. I do have a spare throttle body, but not a spare gas pedal assembly.

My ABS sensors should be here tomorrow, and the new air bypass valve will show up next week, I hope

Thanks for your help so far

Bryan

 

Sometimes it can be a pain in the a$$ to nail down the absolute cause and I hate that. It has caused me to change a few parts that I didn't need!
I know you will get it figured out, because you have too! LOL
I have an R50 vert, that I need to fix the cvt trans and I have let it sit a couple of years now! Also the rear passenger window mechanism self destructed, so I need to replace that damn thing too!
I have not worked this year, so I am strapped for cash, so it will need to wait a little longer. My JCW comes first!

We will need to meet up sometime!

 

As you found quite a bit of corrosion on the floor, the throttle module is also at risk! It may just need the plug to be cleaned with electronic cleaner and a little brush!

 

Good point.....will have to check that out......

My pair of front new ABS sensors arrived today.....I'll try and get those installed when the weather cools down a bit

Bryan

 

Update: 6-15-2019

Not much of an update, but making very little progress on the runnability issue right now....the "MINI from Hell" is kicking my butt

Got my 2 new front ABS sensors the other day, installed those with no problems....when the car cuts out, that DSC light still comes on.....and from what I have found out, if the engine spits out a runnability code, it will automatically disable the DSC system and turn the light on......so this is normal and I will no longer worry about the "5E19 ABS-DSC" code anymore

I did a few electrical tests over the last few days on the MAP & T-MAP sensors, the DVOM meter readings are very close to the service manual specs.....the specs in the manual are at sea level, and i'm just about 500ft above sea level, so the readings will be just slightly off. I also measured the MAP & T-MAP sensors on my '04 R53 to compare readings, again, very close to what the R52 is reading on the DVOM meter.

I connected my scanner up to the car and went to the 'live data' section for the gas pedal potentiometers.....I went to the graph section and worked my gas pedal back & forth with key on but engine off......I went slow, fast, normal, etc......the graphs for both the sensors in the gas pedal showed no glitches at all over the entire travel of the gas pedal at any speed. I must have done this test maybe 12 times......so I'm confident that the gas pedal is not my problem with the car's running issue at this point.

I did get my new air bypass valve yesterday, and I'm going to clean up my spare throttle body and maybe install those either tomorrow or early next week......I would like to at least get this issue fixed soon so we can enjoy the car with what summer we have up here in NW Washington State......

One thing I did think of was just maybe a fuel issue, but it doesn't act like a fuel problem, I'm sure it's electrical or a sensor glitch....but I went up and filled the gas tank up to just rule that possibility out, after putting gas in the car, I pulled out of the gas station and headed for home.....gave it a little gas to get going, and the car cut out again and the DSC ight came on....so fuel level is not the issue either......it only took 6 gallons to fill it up

I also put a "paint mark" on the supercharger pulley and shaft......took it out and pushed it up to where the car cuts out and the check engine light comes on.....limped it back home and checked my paint marks.....nothing has slipped on the supercharger pulley or the crank damper......

So now I'm still leaning towards a sensor issue, whether it be MAP (I have 3 here, no difference when any are installed), maybe a T-MAP (I have a spare here as well, but it's kinda broke at the connection area at the plastic part, the 4 terminals are still there).....I did swap cam sensors, again, no change.....I also am thinking maybe a faulty crank sensor, but one would think it would throw a crank sensor code, of which there is none. I'll try the new air valve and spare throttle body next....if it still acts up.....might have to go after the crank sensor......the lat thing I really don't want to think about is a bad ECU....RPM Motorsports checked it out when I sent the EWS module, the ECU, & the key up to them at the beginning of this thread last year...they said it was OK and the EWS was the problem as to why the engine would not start when I bought the car

Bryan

 

How is your fuel filter?

 

I honestly don't know....car only has 109,000 miles, but that doesn't mean anything......to be honest, it doesn't act like a fuel issue....it's like someone reaches over and switches the key off and then right back on......fuel issues usually involve sputtering, not sudden engine shutoff then right back on.....after the car cuts out, I don't have any throttle response unless I turn the car off and then start it up again.....after I restart it, I can limp it home

I did think of fuel issue.....but now that the tank is full, I need to run some fuel out before looking at that ........

Bryan

 

Got my 2 new front ABS sensors the other day, installed those with no problems....when the car cuts out, that DSC light still comes on.....and from what I have found out, if the engine spits out a runnability code, it will automatically disable the DSC system and turn the light on......so this is normal and I will no longer worry about the "5E19 ABS-DSC" code anymore
This is true Bryan! It will come on, whenever there are issues like this, so ignore that for now!
Have you tried to put an water dryer with injector cleaner in tank? (like ICE with injector cleaner)
You may have a buildup of water in your fuel lines/injectors and it is a pain to clear without something like I have listed. Simple but important!

 

Update: 6-20-2019

To answer Wayne's comment about the fuel dryer & cleaner, yes, I did that just after I got the car running on the road....I bought a bottle and put the proper amount in at the gas station before I filled the tank with new gas......it doesn't act like a "fuel issue" to me....there is no slow loss of power and it's like someone reaches over and turns the key off.......

So, with that said above.....I really don't want to "jinx myself" here, but I may have found my runnability issue with the car. The P0107 code always has come back, and even as of late, I could not get the code to clear at all with my scanner(s).......I have purchased a couple new MAP sensors and tried those, one of them I installed was brand new aftermarket, and the other was brand new BMW brand, both from different vendors, both installed and the running issue still remained.......I also swapped out the bypass air valve with a used spare unit I had here....car ran great for a day, then the same P0107 code comes back.....I figured maybe since I have read and been told that these bypass valves go bad all the time, I would just pic up a new unit and try that when it arrives.......the new valve arrived the other day and I have not had a chance to work on the car as of late.....other items have taken precedence over the MINI right now....my desktop computers hard drive died, and our microwave that we had for 18+ years died as well......I'm trying to do a complete computer system restore with a new hard drive I had here...not sure if it's gonna work or not, and we went and bought a new microwave oven the other night......

Anyway, back to the "MINI from Hell" scenario ......I went out this morning and was getting ready to put the new bypass air valve into the car when I had a thought....(yea, stop laughing).....I got to thinking about the MAP code and wondered if it was referring to the T-MAP sensor instead.....I looked at my intake manifold from the wrecking yard engine that I bought last year and it's still there, but pretty beat up, the 4 electrical pins are bent up and the connector housing is almost all broken off, no way to "snap" the connector plug into the sensor so it stays.......I got my needle nose pliers and proceeded to straighten out the 4 pins that were bent on the broken sensor....got them all straight and figured I might as well try mounting this sensor into the manifold and slide the connector onto the 4 pins and see what happens....it was a snug fit, not like it's gonna "fall off" on my test run......got everything back on the car and ran my scanner again to check & clear codes......this time the P0107 code cleared.....well, that's a step in the right direction.....my ABS-DSC code i still in there and won't clear....but I figured the car has not been driven and it may need to notice that the car does actually move before it clears.....

After I got the car back together, I started it up and backed it out of the garage.....DSC light still on.....then I remembered I fergot my wallet inside the house....shut the car off and went in to get my wallet...came back out, got in the car and started it up.....DSC light now is out.....Hmmmmm.....maybe another good thing here. (or it's teasing me)

Took the car out for a drive....not too hard on the gas pedal...so far so good.....started driving harder & harder.....still running fine.....put about 15 miles on it and never missed a beat.....

I'll continue to drive it around here locally for the next few days and see how it goes.....

If it was indeed a bad "T-MAP" sensor, I'll be a little disappointing that I spent the money on a couple MAP sensors and the new bypass air valve, and broke the other air valve trying to inspect it.....but I suppose lesson learned here.....I'll keep the other MAP sensors and the new bypass valve, just in case they fail on my '04 R53

Crossing my fingers that I have got this fixed and not "jinxing myself" right now......we'll see what happens over the next few days. If this is indeed fixed, I guess I need to be on the hunt for a new T-MAP sensor for the car, or figure a way to attach the connector to the broken sensor so it stays

Bryan

 

Crossing fingers with you!

 

Update: 6-21-2019

Day two of test driving the car after installation of used T-MAP sensor.......put 65 miles on the car today, combination of freeway and in town driving......

So far so good......running fine with no hiccups

Bryan

 

Great news, Bryan! It was being tough, but it looks like a small battle won, that turns into a big win! Congrats!

 

Not much to report here on the car, I haven't taken it out for anymore test driving since the last post I made. Other family members and house issues have taken my time away from the MINI.....

The weather is supposed to be kinda crappy over the next few days here, so until the sunshine returns, the car will just sit there in the garage for now and I can concentrate on the house issues during the nasty weather front moving in

Bryan

 

Hi Bryan,
I hope you were able to get out with it, for some seriously fun testing!
Let us know how it is doing!