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Forsale is my 2006 Mini Cooper S. Current mileage is 72,751. Car in current state is mostly stock except for a DDM Works CAI and WMW red ignition wires. The only thing the car will need is rear brake pads as the sensor just kicked on this week. Car is red and black in color with red and black seats. Comes factory equipped with the Mini Garmin style GPS. Tires are almost new all the way around and the power steering pump was just replaced a few months back. Need to sell asap due my wife and I trying to buy a house and we currently do not need 3 vehicles. Price is 8,200 and I'm pretty firm at that amount as my local bank who financed the car goes by NADA and it's showing 8,375. Thanks.
Last edited by Minime84; 04-23-2017 at 11:32 AM.
Reason: Changing description
Can you post a copy of the NADA price that you are using? Pretty sure any interested buyer would want to see. Are you the first owner? Water pump been replaced? Cannot tell from the picture if the car has a sunroof.
Car is sharp looking and appears to be detailed out.
Can you post a copy of the NADA price that you are using? Pretty sure any interested buyer would want to see. Are you the first owner? Water pump been replaced? Cannot tell from the picture if the car has a sunroof.
Car is sharp looking and appears to be detailed out.
Still has factory water pump as far as I know. I believe I'm the 3rd owner as I am going by the gentlemen I purchased it from. We tried to get the Carfax to pull that day for it but the website was down and was not able to check. Car does have a sunroof in front and back. Here is the Nada I snapped a picture of it. This is what my bank went by when loaning me the money and was told if I sold it to try and go by Nada as well.
Unless you are a dealer than retail is not accurate though. Not saying KBB is perfect either, but a retail purchase has protections.
Yeah well no offense to anyone in here but I see a ton of other cars going for similar prices and some for close to the same with more miles and are selling. I paid a little over 8,000 for it at the beginning of the year and 8,300 was the loan value through the bank. No way am I taking KBB price for it.
Unless you are a dealer than retail is not accurate though. Not saying KBB is perfect either, but a retail purchase has protections.
Retail protections on used car ?
Probably not for one this old, one would be lucky to get 30 days from a MINI dealer, and in state of Michigan even from a UCD none at all, there buyer assumes all risk/liability.
IMO OP is spot on for asking price prior to negotiations, (HK Radio, Climate control, Cold WX pkg, ect ) you can always go lower....I do see similar MINI's in my region with same asking prices too....
Retail protections on used car ?
Probably not for one this old, one would be lucky to get 30 days from a MINI dealer, and in state of Michigan even from a UCD none at all, there buyer assumes all risk/liability.
IMO OP is spot on for asking price prior to negotiations, (HK Radio, Climate control, Cold WX pkg, ect ) you can always go lower....I do see similar MINI's in my region with same asking prices too....
I was going to same the same about the protection...I've been in the car business for 12 years and at that mileage there definitely isn't going to be much protection if any. Price is negotiable! I hate to get rid of it but buying a house is a huge expense and with 3 cars one has to go!
Retail protections on used car ?
Probably not for one this old, one would be lucky to get 30 days from a MINI dealer, and in state of Michigan even from a UCD none at all, there buyer assumes all risk/liability.
IMO OP is spot on for asking price prior to negotiations, (HK Radio, Climate control, Cold WX pkg, ect ) you can always go lower....I do see similar MINI's in my region with same asking prices too....
30 days? I would have taken 30 miles after I purchased my JCW private party. The clutch started slipping in first hour.. Always let the clutch warm up on a test drive, as I learned. I didn't notice the clutch slipping when cold or the several front end parts that were loose. Seller claimed ignorance, and didn't budge. I had no recourse and knew the risks.
Even shady dealerships will honor a day or two, and sometimes thats all you need.
Not commenting about the seller's price, I think its spot on. Enthusiasts will always pay a premium for a clean, well maintained car. Either pay now or pay 3x as much later, as I did.
I have saved or maximized the paint on many a car over the years, but when I see an engine compartment this immaculate on an 11 year-old, 70k+ miles car I am mystified.
Not to get off topic here, but seller (or anybody) what exactly do you do, or have done, to get your engine bay so incredibly clean? In particular, the aluminum and metal bits? I think I could eat off your intercooler. Reply or PM appreciated!
Nice car BTW! I've been looking at R53s for sale lately until my eyeballs crossed, and that price seems right on the $ or a bit lower than some, if it's as nice as it seems in pics. GLWS!
I have saved or maximized the paint on many a car over the years, but when I see an engine compartment this immaculate on an 11 year-old, 70k+ miles car I am mystified.
Not to get off topic here, but seller (or anybody) what exactly do you do, or have done, to get your engine bay so incredibly clean? In particular, the aluminum and metal bits? I think I could eat off your intercooler. Reply or PM appreciated!
Nice car BTW! I've been looking at R53s for sale lately until my eyeballs crossed, and that price seems right on the $ or a bit lower than some, if it's as nice as it seems in pics. GLWS!
Degreaser and a power washer. Cover those electronic bits!
Thanks Burley, I've got to get up the courage to try that again. I am still nursing psychological scars from about 10 years ago, the one and only time I used a degreaser and power washer on my engine--and afterwords had to tow my car home.
At least for me, I think I'll change your advice to "cover those electronic bits really, really, really well!"
I luckily have access to a very nice heated pressure washer where I work so I used that along with a very good citrus cleaner we have. As for the aluminum bits and what not wheel acid can actually do wonders, just be careful not to get any on the painted surfaces! After it's all cleaned and dry I will take a can of Dupli-Color Clear Coat and lightly spray the whole engine compartment and then let dry. I learned this trick from a very old man that detailed cars for almost 50yrs. His engine bays on his personal cars was always immaculate and always shined. And no, it does not hurt a thing! If you do this however make sure to cover your front windshield and maybe tape up the fenders so you don't get any type of possible over spray.
Wheel acid on the aluminum and metal pieces--wow, great tip, never ever would have thought of that. And definitely yes, you'd want to be very careful with that stuff around paint, and it's probably good to be sure it's neutralized/thoroughly washed off, etc.
And what a wise and clever detailer that older man was! A light coating of clear coat spray? Hah! Who woulda thunk it?
Wheel acid on the aluminum and metal pieces--wow, great tip, never ever would have thought of that. And definitely yes, you'd want to be very careful with that stuff around paint, and it's probably good to be sure it's neutralized/thoroughly washed off, etc.
And what a wise and clever detailer that older man was! A light coating of clear coat spray? Hah! Who woulda thunk it?
Thanks, Minime84, great tips!
No problem! I've been doing detail work for awhile now and all of my customers like the clear coat vs the tire shine under the hood. And yes, be sure to rinse thoroughly on the acid.
On detailing I shy away from spraying anything on that gets hard. Years ago there was product you put on the interior to bring the shine back. This was a pre armor-all type product. Problem was that the material was basically a varnish and once the sun got to it, it was worse then what you started off with. I might clear coat something if I was going to sell it but if I am going to keep it I am going to clean the raw metal and then just coat it with a light oil to keep it from oxidizing.
You can go to my picture folder and look at my engine bay, I am a tooth brush nut.
Everybody has there tricks of the trade I guess. That is what works for me, I've done the tire shine trick and and things like that. I've found that it collects dirt and allows it to stick, that's why I do the clear. But both have there advantages and disadvantages I guess! Thanks for the input though!😁
Same here! Coming close to closing on a house a need it gone! If it is still for sale afterwards I may try and keep it if I can make it fit into the budget.
04-22-2017, 01:37 PM
