While there will certainly be some difference of opinion, the conventional wisdom on NAM seems to be that with coils OEM is the best way to avoid problems.

I cannot remember where I got the coils, but they were definitely OE from a 3rd party for far less than dealer prices!

Welp. Valve cover replaced yesterday. There was tons of oil in the 3rd spark plug tube. Cleaned that all out too. Drove, all good. Had another misfire cylinder 3. Swapped coil 3/4. No misfires since. Some stepping on the pedal here and there for fun, boost pressure all good. Consistently hits 13 psi stock or 21 ish with nm power module on high. Drove around a little more just cruising and the dreaded half engine CEL and “2C57 charging pressure control, plausibility pressure too low” came back on. Can it really be the wastegate if I’m able to hit 21 psi with the power module? Maybe I should have the vacuum lines checked or something? Get another smoke test done at an indy shop or just take it to the dealer and pay up?

Sorry I never saw this. Yes I would absolutely buy the same turbo again. It’s still working terrific. Just as a straight bolt on replacement, there is a noticeable improvement, but combined with the tune, it’s really a different car! The only thing I would do differently now, is possibly going one size bigger to the 42mm. But am perfectly happy with the 40mm! I originally was just going to do a straight swap without tuning, so it made sense. If I knew I was going to end up tuning it, I may have gone a bit bigger. But I’ve driven one just like mine with the same tune and a 42mm turbo, and mine makes better power I think, for the way I drive. It spools just a hair quicker.

Started to take everything off today to replace the turbo so that we can sell this giant headache! Since we are selling it we have no interest in doing any mods to it, so what turbo would you guys recommend putting on it just to fix the CEL. I don't want to sell this to somebody only for them to have the same issues.

Well it looks like you guys were right, and now I completely understand why the turbo was the issue.
The wastegate had a TON of slop and wear, a lot of it was in the linkage itself which is part of the turbo and cannot be adjusted out.
The new Cardone turbo I installed had almost none, and now there is no rattling noise at start up.

I was able to replace the turbo without really taking much off the car. No service mode BS... Just took the catalytic converter and heat shields off and was able to get to all the bolts, even left the exhaust manifold in place. Probably took me a total of around 4hrs.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...a725460cca.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...19c5bbb972.jpg

Finally I can sell this over-engineered POS!

Mochanic, which website did you purchase the Cardone turbo form? It looks like they only rebuild/refurbish the turbos for Minis now and do not manufacture new ones or at least that is what they say on their site once you select the Make and model of the car.

If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost?

Thank you

It came from Ebay and it shows it is 100% new. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbocharge...9/163572542206

It looks identical to the OEM Borg Warner that I took off and came with everything except the oil return hose O-ring which is insanely expensive for an O-ring (over $8!) There is no way I would go through all that work and not replace the original O-ring.

Now there is a new problem... go figure!

There is a significant hesitation/stumbling during acceleration that was not there before replacing the turbo (with a worn out waste gate).
It has the stock OEM mapping and has never been messed with. New coil packs and NGK plugs installed in April. There is no check engine light or stored codes. It's almost like it gets to much boost, then the computer opens the waste gate for just a second and repeats this causing a surging feel. Wouldn't this throw a CEL for an over boost condition if that were the case?
I installed the OEM cut off valve onto the new turbo since it was brand new only a few months ago.

So now what?

Did I tell you guys how much I hate this POS?

A lot of people have said many different things about fixing this issue. I've been trying to track it down for months. "replace turbo" has been the most common fix, so I figured I'd check the wastegate. Turns out it was a little loose. Once I set it a little tighter, maybe 1/4" on the threads, it no longer has this issue.

It also happened to coincide with the erratic idle issue, which I had given up on. It mostly resolved the erratic idle, though there is still a couple hiccups which I attribute to the DV spring being broken.

Check the wastegate adjustment to make sure it didn't loosen itself.

They don't loosen themselves, they wear out! Only real fix is a new turbo!
If you want to rid all the problems that these POS's have do what I did and sell it! (technically we traded it in for my 16yr old Son brand new Ford Ranger)

I know this is an old thread but...

Recently I pulled a 2C57 from my car with a bunch of misfire codes and was sure I was going to need a turbo. Then I saw the post from Mochanic and figured why not check the PCV. Diaphragm was torn pretty badly and replacing it has my car back to running again. All of the codes are gone, including the misfires. So if you're getting this code it's worth pulling that PCV cover off and checking it before you go to all of the work to pull the turbo.

Also, my mechanic told me that depending on how long that diaphragm was torn I might have longer term issues with buildup on the backs of the intake valves which is an issue with direct injection engines. But for now all is good.

Hi, I have recently got this code come up along with 2c91. I have changed the diverter valve already, did not fix it. I see alot of people saying I will probably need a new turbo as could be the waste gate playing up. Just seen your post, is it worth me trying this out ? Is it worth having a look at the pcv cover or not ? Lmk.

Got the same code today. I did not notice and change in engine performance. No hills here in my are in Florida. Was getting on it in sport mode to get up to speed around 50 mph. Cars new to me as of 2 weeks ago with 139,000 miles. 2012 Countryman R60. Replaced plugs, did an engine flush and oil change along with a new OEM air filter. Plugs gaped at .031. I couldn’t find anything conclusive regarding the correct gap. The Hynes manual does not provide the gap. Doubt this is an issue. Would we not just be able to replace the waste gate separately if it is the issue? I will check the diaphragm tomorrow.

I just finished reinstalling the turbo on my R60. I had bought a used replacement because the wastegate flapper on the original had sheared off and fallen into the downpipe. I decided to order a replacement flapper from a popular China site as a last ditch plan before I found the used turbo. Once I got the original turbo I found that it was in excellent condition and thought I would try just swapping the wastegate itself. I had to grind the pin off of the original in order to remove the old flapper, then used a bolt and nut with a suitable socket to pull out the bushing. I used a vice to press in the new bushing then inserted the new flapper and welded the pin. I reinstalled the repaired turbo but can't test it because in a strange coincidence the car went into limp mode do to throttle body errors. Once the new TB arrives I will am confident everything will be good.

Thanks for the reply. I am sure you don’t have pictures for reference? What’s weird is that I didn’t go into limp mode. I initially got an engine light with a CC ID code 029. Saw that it was very generic so I used my scanner and came up with the 2C57 code. I am hoping it’s not the turbo since I just bought the car. Where by chance did you find a used turbo? Please keep me posted.

The first pics are of the broken flapper. The last two of the new one installed and my poor welding on the pin. The welding isn't very pretty but it is solid.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...3da9d7b0f.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...f04297439.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bbdaff868.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...06f6b6885.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...18f466d11.jpeg

I bought the R60 knowing the turbo would need to be replaced. Picked it up for $5000 Cdn (US$3600) so I was ready to put some time and money into it. I found the used turbo on a local classifieds site similar to craigslist but I am sure any auto recycler would have them available. The wastegate flapper only cost $20 and I got the used turbo for $100 so I was very happy. I can't wait to get the new throttle body so I can get the car on the road for a good test run.

Not sure if others have had this issue and then it “fix’s” itself by the next morning. Went to take the kids to school the following morning after the half engine message happened. The engine light was not present. It did however, pop back up when I was getting on it to go over a bridge. Again, no noticeable limp mode or lag in performance. I let off for a split second and then got back into it without it even stuttering. Got back in the car an hour or so later and the indicator was gone again. Went up the same bridge on the way back without issue. Not sure if I have a small leak or a waste gate that maybe gets stuck from time to time. The first time it came on I was in sport mode and this past time I was not. Not sure if that has anything to do with it? To clarify, if I haven’t already, I initially got a CC ID 029. Not much clarity online regarding what it could be so I pulled the codes with my Bluedriver OBD reader. That’s when I got a 2C57 code, leading me down this path.

It happens to me exactly the same, I have problems with the throttle body (002711) trying to solve the problem of the turbocharger (2c57). did you get a solution?

I have a 2011 Countryman S All 4 with this code, we have replaced the turbo with a Frankenturbo 21M. Wastegate seems to be functioning normally, no leaks found. We bought the car with the clutch out of it and after that was replaced have been fighting this issue ever since. At this point I just want to fix it and sell it. What is my next step? We own an auto repair shop but have exhausted our sources and we don't deal with a lot of imports. Most are advising a tuner but I don't even know where to start with that.

2C57 low charging pressure and/or not plausible
 

I have an R59, 2014 Mini S Roadster, I'm having the 2C57 code, and have replaced the Turbo, air pressure sensor and under a light load, the code is set. I have experienced a surging of the turbo on a couple of occasions, would anyone agree that it could be the Turbo control module located under the intake? This part controls the waste gate, among other items I'm sure. I'm just pulling my hair out working on this car, and was expecting the new turbo install to correct the issue. It did not. The Turbo came with a diverter valve, and on the original turbo I replace the diverter valve....continued. Car has 120k. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I cant find any articles on what I might see with a failing Turbo control solenoid....so grasping for straws and asking for help!!!

Yes, I replaced the throttle body with one I bought on Amazon and that got rid of the limp mode for the TB. Once that was fixed I was able to test the turbo with the replaced wastegate and it worked perfectly. I haven't had any issues since.

I replaced my valve cover and valve cover gasket and the code has not come back. No turbo swap yet!