R60 Service mode?
#1
Service mode?
Hey guys Im editing this post to ask if anyone know if the 2012 countryman s needs the special tools to get into service mode or if anyone has gotten it into service mode without the special tools. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...lines/ECN9TYx1
Last edited by Nick Perez; 10-14-2017 at 11:21 AM.
#2
Problem solved, Answer is that you cannot get it into service mode without tools to support the front end. Needing to get the job done this weekend I made my own tool version of part# 83302356848 2346947
The threading is 8mm coarse thread where it mounts to the bumper support bracket.
The nuts I used to make the tool are 8mm flanged (one nut was slightly drilled out so the bolt could slide through the nut on the back end). I cut the 3/4" steel tube down to two 5" pieces. The bolts are 8mm x 150mm. On a side note I used class 10 bolts and class 8 flanged nuts because the class 10 flanged nuts had a slightly smaller diameter on the flange.
The drilled out nut goes on the bolt in the normal fashion and the pipe than goes on next and the last nut screws on backwards so the head of the nut screws inside the 3/4" pipe. Tighten it down and you just saved yourself $150-$200 and a weeks time just to get it out of Germany.
For the top support bar that does on top I just used those metal bars with pre-cut holes they sell at the hardware section where all the rodes and pipes are kept. I didnt see anyone on the threads with this info yet so hope it helps someone else out.
The threading is 8mm coarse thread where it mounts to the bumper support bracket.
The nuts I used to make the tool are 8mm flanged (one nut was slightly drilled out so the bolt could slide through the nut on the back end). I cut the 3/4" steel tube down to two 5" pieces. The bolts are 8mm x 150mm. On a side note I used class 10 bolts and class 8 flanged nuts because the class 10 flanged nuts had a slightly smaller diameter on the flange.
The drilled out nut goes on the bolt in the normal fashion and the pipe than goes on next and the last nut screws on backwards so the head of the nut screws inside the 3/4" pipe. Tighten it down and you just saved yourself $150-$200 and a weeks time just to get it out of Germany.
For the top support bar that does on top I just used those metal bars with pre-cut holes they sell at the hardware section where all the rodes and pipes are kept. I didnt see anyone on the threads with this info yet so hope it helps someone else out.
Last edited by Nick Perez; 10-14-2017 at 10:04 PM.
#3
Nick, thanks for these pictures and the explanation of how to make this special tool (which is currently $108 at minipartsdirect). Did you use it and do you have any pictures of how it is fitted on the R60? Do I really need this to just move the front end forward enough to get the exhaust manifold off my N16? Thanks much! And apologies for resurrecting this old thread. Paul
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