Just looking at Scan Tools and came across something called 'Battery Registration/Reset' being required for late model BMW & Mini's.

Evidently if your replace your battery without doing the 'battery registration' you can end up over-charging your new battery.

See here:
http://atlanticmotorcar.com/tech-tip...replacement-2/

Anyone know if this is required on the Countryman?

Thanks.

-steve

 

Steve,

recently had my 2012 CM sitting in the garage for an extended period. Wasn't started and needed a new battery.

These DO need the re-programing when it comes replacing a battery.

Mini wanted $550 for the software update alone-no battery included.

Ended up taking it to an independent mini repair shop, cost $105 for the exact same software.

From what I understand the car will run if you just swap it out without the re-program, however you run the risk of ruining your alternator among other things.

Still a Pain in the butt to have to pay for them to essentially plug it into a computer, but a lot cheaper then the repairs that not doing it could cost.

I got this info on why the re-progamming is neccesary from multiple sources, not just the MINI dealership (I don't trust them lol)

Hope this helps!

 

the carly app for iphone/android can do it as well as coding, readinggresetting error codesn resetting service intervals snd more

i bought it for my Galaxy s4 ... well worth it

 

Just a reminder. Not all models have the IBS or intelligent battery system. If your car does not have it then no programming is needed.

On the R56 models the IBS module is a small rectangular box in line on the battery cable. Maybe 6 inches from the battery terminal.

Not sure where they placed it on the F56 or countryman etc.

 

Just a reminder. Not all models have the IBS or intelligent battery system. If your car does not have it then no programming is needed.

On the R56 models the IBS module is a small rectangular box in line on the battery cable. Maybe 6 inches from the battery terminal.

Not sure where they placed it on the F56 or countryman etc.

 

My battery failed very suddenly three months ago. Usually I sense it coming with slower cranks on cold days, etc., but my car was starting and running great one minute, and completely dead coming the next. I tried jumping it, and nothing. It was completely dead. I put a new battery in it in a restaurant parking lot (not fun), and it's been fine ever since.

But this is the first I've heard of a need to reset software for a new battery...

Is this a wife's tale, or do I really need to go have this done?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had my battery replaced on my F54 at 46K miles. It's covered under warranty, so if your car has less than 50K miles, you should just let the battery die and get it replaced for free lol.

 

 

Hola! Don't post on here much, but figured I'd post up my recent battery swap experience.

2014 CMSAll4. Love it, but this whole battery registration has made me think/stew/worry about it way too much. Anyway...here's the short version.

Original Exide battery started crapping out. Battery symbol when my wife would drive it, as she short trips our vehicles badly. Hunted around for best deal on a battery, but found that warranty seems to top out at 3 years for an AGM battery. Went to Autozone and bought a Duralast H6 Platinum AGM battery for right around $200. Swapped it in about 30 minutes today. Hardest part was getting wiper arm off. (Tips for that at end) I had made appointment for this afternoon at local garage that works on BMW/Mini for them to register battery. Drove there, where they did it while I waited and took my $80. Boom--done.

So, at the end of the day, I am into this about $280, which is probably double what my previously most expensive battery purchase had been. Still, the same garage (No dealer within 3 hours of me) that did the registration had originally given me an estimate of $600 for battery, labor and registration, so I am around HALF of that for 30 minutes of my time. I also have a battery warranty at a regional/national chain of stores, should I have a problem.

OK, wiper arm. I removed nut like I had seen in some video, but arm was pressed onto splined motor/linkage shaft (career bicycle mechanic, so I know about pressed on crank arms, etc). I soaked with penetrating oil, put nut back on so it had a slight gap over arm surface and grabbed some needle nose vise grips. By clamping the underside of the arm to the top of the nut, it allowed vice grips to push arm up to bottom of nut. Once it popped loose, it was easy from there. Nut kept any threads from getting F'd up and I didn't bust up plastic cowl by trying to lever arm up against it.

So, if you'd normally swap a battery in any other vehicle, I'd say do this one, too. I do believe it is worth doing the registration, but I'm just not in a position to buy a scan tool for it right at the moment. Sucked it up and simply had someone do it for me. Managed to save $300. Could be worse, I guess.

 

Had our battery changed out by dealership recently for the CM, it was about $300. So your dealership was ripping you off.

 

Good info! Thanks for posting......

 

Shouldn't be called IBS, should be called SBS (I'll leave it to your imagination what the initial S replaces the I (intelligent) with. I vote for Suckers.

 

It really is a good idea that is just poorly implemented. A proper system would be able to know that you replaced the battery and made adjustments for that without dealer or user intervention. You can buy an intelligent battery charger for $50 or less so you have to wonder why they can't do that in the cars. The circuitry is probably very cheap.

 

Of course you can, All my lithium batteries have intelligence built in to protect the battery. That is why I think this "registration" fee to replace batteries is for suckers. After all, how many times in the past was your battery an issue in past cars you've owned. I'd guess, if your anything like me, close to zero. Every 5 years or so ya just replace them and forget about them for another 5 years or so .....

 

Yea, but where is the dealer profit in that scenario?

 

Reviving...

Had to change the Exide battery on my daughter's R60 today, looking at how to code it. The Negative cable did not have the IBS on the line.

Can anyone point me to the coding sequence in ESys, or the specific battery coding option field and I'll search for it? TIA

 

If you dont have the wire, you dont have the IBS system, so no need to "register it"

 

I just had my 2011 R60 battery go bad on me. Took me couple days to locate a H5 AGM CostCo battery for $150. After checking a couple UTube videos I pulled the cowling off and ended up cracking it as they didnt mention the dam wiper blade! That top part male/ female snap was the culprit. Pulled the wiper blade and easy peazy lemon squeezy swapped the BMW 570CC battery with a 610CC.

In the process noticed the IBS module lurking next to the battery. Im not working on my Mini enough to get the Carly App or Schwaben Tool (mostly wrench on my LX450) so I called my local mechanic who quoted $50 to reset the battery. Thought that was but much but look like that may be a good deal. I may just package deal it when I get maintenance work done.

In the meantime any Carly or Schwaben LA Mini members close to Culver City wanna trade couple packs of craft brew to help with 10min reset? (7min for beer drinking 3 for resetting). Figured would keep it in the family. Thanks!

 

Did you check with the local mini dealer for battery replacement? I checked all the usual aftermarket sources but then decided to check the dealer "just because".
The dealer was by far the cheapest. US$129.95, including the battery, tax, recycling fee, installation and coding (coding if necessary). That was for a sealed AGM type 700CC mini oem battery identical to the original battery from the factory (same part #).
My 2012 R60S All4 does not have IBS and did not need coding.

 

You are better off getting an H6. It fits and provides more capacity.