R60 Countryman HK Amp Questions
#1
01-07-2013, 01:18 PM
Countryman HK Amp Questions
I looked all over the site first for answers...
I saw that the HK amp is under the driver seat, then the passenger seat, then a rear window and then finally somewhere in the boot.
Can someone please answer this for me?
Also, can you piggyback off of the amp?
Thank you so much,
Mike
I saw that the HK amp is under the driver seat, then the passenger seat, then a rear window and then finally somewhere in the boot.
Can someone please answer this for me?
Also, can you piggyback off of the amp?
Thank you so much,
Mike
#3
01-07-2013, 02:09 PM
#6
01-07-2013, 02:56 PM
Absolutely not. You can piggyback off the line levels to run to a dedicated amplifier, but under no circumstances use the stock one to power anything.
The ratings for the seat "subwoofers" are 20watts at 2 ohms with RMS in the area of 14watts at full load.
You will kill a voice coil or the amp very easily if you try to power a conventional sub.
The ratings for the seat "subwoofers" are 20watts at 2 ohms with RMS in the area of 14watts at full load.
You will kill a voice coil or the amp very easily if you try to power a conventional sub.
#7
01-07-2013, 08:00 PM
Theta, yeah that's what I meant by piggybacking.
I have the HK system and it sounds great and all but lacks the bass punch I like on the highway. I have a sub and amp from my original MINI S and was hoping I could tap into the amp, to my other amp and run the sub. Can you tap off the power and ground too? Or would you use the power outlet for that? Is any of this possible?
I went to an audio place today and they quoted me at 700 dollars, years ago I did stereo installs as a job but I don't want to mess up my new Countryman S, I only picked it up 2 days ago.
Thank you for replying, I do appreciate it. It's great to be back in a MINI.
I have the HK system and it sounds great and all but lacks the bass punch I like on the highway. I have a sub and amp from my original MINI S and was hoping I could tap into the amp, to my other amp and run the sub. Can you tap off the power and ground too? Or would you use the power outlet for that? Is any of this possible?
I went to an audio place today and they quoted me at 700 dollars, years ago I did stereo installs as a job but I don't want to mess up my new Countryman S, I only picked it up 2 days ago.
Thank you for replying, I do appreciate it. It's great to be back in a MINI.
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#8
01-07-2013, 08:15 PM
Good questions, and I can thankfully answer them for you as I've found myself in the same boat.
You can certainly tap the line-levels at the amp and feed that to the other amp. I believe I have the wire diagram on that if you can't find it here.
The power wire running to the HK Amp is merely a 10-gauge or 8-gauge wire. That's barely enough for the amp, let alone anything else.
The rear power port is wired with either 12- or 14-gauge wire, and wouldn't be enough to power an amp off of. Sadly, you'll need to run at least another 6-gauge (or larger) cable to safely power the additional amplifier. Grounds can be found in that rear area, so no issue there.
You can certainly tap the line-levels at the amp and feed that to the other amp. I believe I have the wire diagram on that if you can't find it here.
The power wire running to the HK Amp is merely a 10-gauge or 8-gauge wire. That's barely enough for the amp, let alone anything else.
The rear power port is wired with either 12- or 14-gauge wire, and wouldn't be enough to power an amp off of. Sadly, you'll need to run at least another 6-gauge (or larger) cable to safely power the additional amplifier. Grounds can be found in that rear area, so no issue there.
#9
01-07-2013, 11:16 PM
Thanks Theta, you're amazing. If you could forward me the wiring diagram that would be fantastic! Could you possibly send to irule at thamike.com? Did you do any of this yet? If so, did you run the thick gage directly from the battery under the bonnet? Do you have any other tips, suggestions or warning? You're another reason why I missed this community. Again thank you. I'm reviewing you tonite!
#10
01-07-2013, 11:33 PM
Thanks very much for the kind words! 
Sending that data to you right now.
I've actually run it both ways - if you want to have the amp on the left side of the car, and you're using a smaller amp/sub, you can use the fusebox positive post as a point to start from. If you go about doing it this way, you can use the available spaces and grommets to go into the cabin. Then, simply route it down the side of the kick panel, and back.
If you want to have it on the right side, then the battery would be an obvious choice. This is a little more difficult, as you may need to remove the battery to get access to the cabin. If you do this or not, you'll simply use a grommet or drill a small hole to gain access to the passenger-side cabin. Then, just route down the panel and back.
Nothing too bad with this one overall. A few years back I was working on a replacement under-seat system, but it didn't pan out. Along the way, I learned quite a bit about what to do and what not to do.
Wiring diagram heading out now.
Sending that data to you right now.
I've actually run it both ways - if you want to have the amp on the left side of the car, and you're using a smaller amp/sub, you can use the fusebox positive post as a point to start from. If you go about doing it this way, you can use the available spaces and grommets to go into the cabin. Then, simply route it down the side of the kick panel, and back.
If you want to have it on the right side, then the battery would be an obvious choice. This is a little more difficult, as you may need to remove the battery to get access to the cabin. If you do this or not, you'll simply use a grommet or drill a small hole to gain access to the passenger-side cabin. Then, just route down the panel and back.
Nothing too bad with this one overall. A few years back I was working on a replacement under-seat system, but it didn't pan out. Along the way, I learned quite a bit about what to do and what not to do.
Wiring diagram heading out now.
#11
01-08-2013, 07:54 AM
For what it's worth, I wound up installing a sub/amp on top of my HK system following this method (line-level taps at the HK amp, 6-gauge cable run straight from the battery to the rear). It completely addressed the shortcomings that were bothering me with the stock setup, and the install was really pretty easy (I loosely popped most interior panels on the passenger side and used a fish-tape to get the wiring routed rather than actually fully removing everything, which would have been significantly more involved).
One tip- if you choose to run the cable straight off the battery, there's an existing grommet in the firewall directly behind the battery that feeds right into the passenger footwell. Best part: there's an existing "nub" on the grommet that can be sliced to allow a perfectly sized hole to accommodate a 6 gauge wire- and the whole thing is even capped/shielded to keep it especially protected from the elements.
Good luck with the project- I think you'll be very pleased.
One tip- if you choose to run the cable straight off the battery, there's an existing grommet in the firewall directly behind the battery that feeds right into the passenger footwell. Best part: there's an existing "nub" on the grommet that can be sliced to allow a perfectly sized hole to accommodate a 6 gauge wire- and the whole thing is even capped/shielded to keep it especially protected from the elements.
Good luck with the project- I think you'll be very pleased.
#13
01-14-2013, 08:40 AM
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Follow Up Question Re: Two HK 8'' Speakers Under Seats
Theta and others, great info! Thanks!
I just had a general question about the best course of action for only replacing the two speakers under the seats? Theta, you indicated that you had attempted something previously under the seats?
I ask because I think the highs/mids in the HK system aren't too bad, it just lacks the bottom end to round it out. I primarily listen to rock/alternative so I am not looking for trunk rattling bass...just a well rounded sound stage with some bass that I can feel.
My plan was to heavily dynamat all four doors to maximize insulation and try to do something to get REAL bass out of the two 8'' speakers under the front seats....it sounds like you CANNOT simply replace these 8'' speakers with a new set (say like some 2 ohm Kicker competition shallow mounts?) and hook back up to the factory HK amp? is that correct? Or is that something which could be reasonably done without blowing up the amp/wiring, etc.?
Any thoughts/guidance on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated!
best,
Mike
I just had a general question about the best course of action for only replacing the two speakers under the seats? Theta, you indicated that you had attempted something previously under the seats?
I ask because I think the highs/mids in the HK system aren't too bad, it just lacks the bottom end to round it out. I primarily listen to rock/alternative so I am not looking for trunk rattling bass...just a well rounded sound stage with some bass that I can feel.
My plan was to heavily dynamat all four doors to maximize insulation and try to do something to get REAL bass out of the two 8'' speakers under the front seats....it sounds like you CANNOT simply replace these 8'' speakers with a new set (say like some 2 ohm Kicker competition shallow mounts?) and hook back up to the factory HK amp? is that correct? Or is that something which could be reasonably done without blowing up the amp/wiring, etc.?
Any thoughts/guidance on how to proceed would be greatly appreciated!
best,
Mike
#14
01-14-2013, 09:30 AM
There is really only a single method of replacing those under-seat woofers, and a VERY limited number of replacements (2, if I remember correctly). You will not be able to power any replacements with the HK amp. Truthfully, the stock units can become twice as loud just by feeding them more power - not kidding. Using an Alpine amp for testing, they actually came VERY alive. Nothing earth-shattering, but my wife finally noticed they were there. 
Dynamat will work for the chassis exposure, but the actual subwoofer enclosure is very custom, and there's no room for Dynamat in there.
After a LOT of trial and error, I found it just wasn't worth it. The enclosures are just a bad idea period, and they don't give that rumble feeling.
I will be considering my original idea for this new one: Using a type of tactile transducer (bass shaker or buttkicker became the generic term a few years back). These can possibly be powered by the HK (most likely not, but who knows...) and would create the deep bass feel without any cabin noise. Great for kids, or if you just don't want to be thumping and rattling.
Not sure if I'll move forward with that, but it's a thought.
Dynamat will work for the chassis exposure, but the actual subwoofer enclosure is very custom, and there's no room for Dynamat in there.
After a LOT of trial and error, I found it just wasn't worth it. The enclosures are just a bad idea period, and they don't give that rumble feeling.
I will be considering my original idea for this new one: Using a type of tactile transducer (bass shaker or buttkicker became the generic term a few years back). These can possibly be powered by the HK (most likely not, but who knows...) and would create the deep bass feel without any cabin noise. Great for kids, or if you just don't want to be thumping and rattling.
Not sure if I'll move forward with that, but it's a thought.
#15
01-14-2013, 09:46 AM
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Thanks so much for your insight. For someone who is just looking to add some moderate bass to the system, how would you suggest I proceed?
Would you just add a small amp for the two speakers under the seat? Do you have any idea how much additional power they can safely handle?
Alternatively, do you recall the two replacement options for under the seats if I was to power them separately?
thanks again!
Mike
Would you just add a small amp for the two speakers under the seat? Do you have any idea how much additional power they can safely handle?
Alternatively, do you recall the two replacement options for under the seats if I was to power them separately?
thanks again!
Mike
#17
01-14-2013, 09:50 AM
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I was thinking about an amp like this...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061DX1....html?tp=35757
if I were to just boost the stock 8'' under the seats...it would be 60 RMS at 2 OHMs vice the 14 RMS its getting now...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061DX1....html?tp=35757
if I were to just boost the stock 8'' under the seats...it would be 60 RMS at 2 OHMs vice the 14 RMS its getting now...
#18
01-14-2013, 01:18 PM
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Had a crazy idea based on your experience with the Alpine amp and the factory 8''...
Found this little amp online...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206PX1K....html?tp=35757
50 watts RMS @ 2 ohm...and it can run on 12 volt power...I could mount it in the trunk on same side as the HK amp, run the wires for the two 8''s and use the trunk 12 volt for power...if current output is 14 watts RMS, then the 50 RMS should be a major improvement and not enough to blow them out...what do you think?
This could be a cheap/quick way to moderately boost bass without tearing the whole car apart...
And it could be easily disconnected if you needed to for any reason...
Found this little amp online...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_206PX1K....html?tp=35757
50 watts RMS @ 2 ohm...and it can run on 12 volt power...I could mount it in the trunk on same side as the HK amp, run the wires for the two 8''s and use the trunk 12 volt for power...if current output is 14 watts RMS, then the 50 RMS should be a major improvement and not enough to blow them out...what do you think?
This could be a cheap/quick way to moderately boost bass without tearing the whole car apart...
And it could be easily disconnected if you needed to for any reason...
#19
01-14-2013, 01:26 PM
I just downloaded the manual for that, and it's just a traditional amp that's been weatherproofed. All automotive amps are 12v, of course.
Not sure where you're getting the idea to run off anything in the trunk. This still requires a dedicated fused battery lead of 10-gauge wire. The cigarette lighter plug in the back of the car is going to be limited to around 15watts max before you start heating up that wire.
If you really wanted to, you could splice into the HK outputs to the subs and put any amp in-line. You're not going to be able to pick up line-level before the HK due to the optical/CAN signaling system.
You shouldn't need to run any additional wires to the subs, which are a major pain to get to.
Not sure where you're getting the idea to run off anything in the trunk. This still requires a dedicated fused battery lead of 10-gauge wire. The cigarette lighter plug in the back of the car is going to be limited to around 15watts max before you start heating up that wire.
If you really wanted to, you could splice into the HK outputs to the subs and put any amp in-line. You're not going to be able to pick up line-level before the HK due to the optical/CAN signaling system.
You shouldn't need to run any additional wires to the subs, which are a major pain to get to.
#20
01-14-2013, 01:31 PM
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#21
01-14-2013, 01:38 PM
You need to decide what you'd like to accomplish wiring-wise before selecting any amp. Mine was simply a tester, and it's not really relevant to what you're looking to do.
The wiring running to the subs is either 20ga or 22ga from the HK out. Let's assume 22ga for safety. You can really only safely put 25W through that at a 2-ohm load.
However, amps will really only send what's commanded (well, new Class Ds, etc). If you want to tap the rear HK outputs, grab the smallest amp you'd like, run a 10-gauge power wire, and see if that suits you.
There's really only 2 ways about this - give it a little bump in power by splicing in, or rip everything out and start from scratch.
The wiring running to the subs is either 20ga or 22ga from the HK out. Let's assume 22ga for safety. You can really only safely put 25W through that at a 2-ohm load.
However, amps will really only send what's commanded (well, new Class Ds, etc). If you want to tap the rear HK outputs, grab the smallest amp you'd like, run a 10-gauge power wire, and see if that suits you.
There's really only 2 ways about this - give it a little bump in power by splicing in, or rip everything out and start from scratch.
#22
01-14-2013, 01:40 PM
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#24
09-29-2018, 04:28 PM
need help as well
Hey Theta, will you please send me the diagram as well. I’ve taken my MINI apart and still can’t get this amp to work.
l.n.s at me.com
Thank you in advanced!
QUOTE=Theta;3655157]Thanks very much for the kind words!
Sending that data to you right now.
I've actually run it both ways - if you want to have the amp on the left side of the car, and you're using a smaller amp/sub, you can use the fusebox positive post as a point to start from. If you go about doing it this way, you can use the available spaces and grommets to go into the cabin. Then, simply route it down the side of the kick panel, and back.
If you want to have it on the right side, then the battery would be an obvious choice. This is a little more difficult, as you may need to remove the battery to get access to the cabin. If you do this or not, you'll simply use a grommet or drill a small hole to gain access to the passenger-side cabin. Then, just route down the panel and back.
Nothing too bad with this one overall. A few years back I was working on a replacement under-seat system, but it didn't pan out. Along the way, I learned quite a bit about what to do and what not to do.
Wiring diagram heading out now.[/QUOTE]
l.n.s at me.com
Thank you in advanced!
QUOTE=Theta;3655157]Thanks very much for the kind words!
Sending that data to you right now.
I've actually run it both ways - if you want to have the amp on the left side of the car, and you're using a smaller amp/sub, you can use the fusebox positive post as a point to start from. If you go about doing it this way, you can use the available spaces and grommets to go into the cabin. Then, simply route it down the side of the kick panel, and back.
If you want to have it on the right side, then the battery would be an obvious choice. This is a little more difficult, as you may need to remove the battery to get access to the cabin. If you do this or not, you'll simply use a grommet or drill a small hole to gain access to the passenger-side cabin. Then, just route down the panel and back.
Nothing too bad with this one overall. A few years back I was working on a replacement under-seat system, but it didn't pan out. Along the way, I learned quite a bit about what to do and what not to do.
Wiring diagram heading out now.[/QUOTE]
