I've been reading in the Owner's Manual that the break-in period is 1200 miles/2000km. It doesn't say anything about dumping and replacing the engine oil. From what I have read in the O/M it appears that the CM uses 5W-30 or 5W-40 Dino in the crankcase or does it come with synthetic oil ?

Additionally, nowhere in the O/M does it spec the capacity of the crankcase (unless I overlooked it).

Every vehicle I've ever owned I've dumped the oil and swapped out the oil filter at 1500 miles. It appears that Mini wants us to run the vehicle for the entire first year with the same oil. I'm not too keen on that.

I would prefer to dump the oil and filter at 1200 and go with Mobil 1 synthetic. I doubt however Mini would refill the crankcase at the first year service interval with Mobil 1 Synthetic or another synthetic or am I wrong?

Has anybody any experience with this ? Where to get oil filters besides the dealership, etc.

TIA

~Cheers! Hobie

 

Pretty sure Mini uses synthetic oil in all there engines, Castrol Synth I believe. Very few car companies use dino oil anymore, especially in turbo engines.

Everyone has an opinion on oil, and most are with no factual basis. Modern engines are cleaned fully and run before installed now, so no reason to dump dump after break in.

I'm sure they will replace it with Mobile 1 if you bring it to them when your oil service indicator comes on. (your saving the dealership money)

 

Perhaps you can ask the dealership what they use and get back to us with the answer!

I'm also interested in which oil day use. Did you search R59 forum?

 

MINI has their own brand synthetic long life rated oil. I changed ours first time at 6 months and 5,000 miles using the approved Mobil 1 0w/40 and the MINI oil filter. Stealership will change it at a year, and their oil will be fine.

Probably sticking to 6 month OCI's, as this is a short trip grocery getter.

4.4qrts

27mm oil filter case socket and 8mm drain-plug allen-wrench needed. Be sure and look up the proper torque values for each and use a torque wrench.

Bought the oil filter case socket and oil filter here.

DIY How-to thread here.

As for dumping oil at 500 miles as I have done too in the past..... Well that's the past...... I also used Fram oil filters for 35 years, but learned better in the last 5 years. Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 oil filters whenever possible in all my rigs now.



Crimany this is my 666th post.... The devil you say.....

 

I still don't buy 15k for the first change. I will bet there is still metal bit from a full break in. I have 3K now and I am going to change it. Good to get the debris out of the motor. Cheap insurance. My old dealer offered a free change at 1500 on my 2010 MCS. I had to grind my new dealer for it. I would do it any way but most likely not with them if they wouldn't.

 

MINI's policy is similar to BMW. Again, if you want to keep the car for a long time, pay extra and change it after break-in only helps. Otherwise, let the dealer take care of the rest.

 

simply flip over to the R55, 56 or 57 boards for the respective S or non-S models. You will find perhaps 50-100 threads with a wealth of info about new car oil change issues, answers to all the details to your questions, and much more. There is literally up to four years of experience there now, depending on which model.

 

Thanks mate. I'll look into it.

 

We keep Amsoil on hand.

Annette

 

+1 on varying data / opinions on the topic.

I just turned 900 miles on an S Clubman and checked oil level yesterday. Level was fine, but oil color is migrating from honey to 'slightly-dirty-honey'. I kept it under 4 grand during the period, but have spooled up the turbo a time or two...

I plan to change-out oil and filter at 1500 (like you am considering Mobile 1 as well, since it has served me so well in other vehicles).

Some wisdom from others is to - at a minimum - pop in a new filter and top off oil at the first 1500 miles during break-in. This seems logical as finings will be more than usual as the components get used to each other; however the discoloration of the oil is one of my triggers for changing - especially for the first change of a turbo vehicle.

 

I searched the 1st Gen threads and there is more info than the R57 thread (i.e.; Places to get filters, necessary socket wrench, etc). However, I still don't know how much oil goes in the crankcase. I definitely plan on changing the oil and filter too at 1500. It just amazes me that the O/M doesn't list the capacity of the crankcase.

Also, we owned a 330i not long ago. We were told the it took 16qts of synthetic oil (that's as much as my turbo-diesel ).

The last service I had performed on that car at the dealership (not the one where we purchased the CM) I asked the service adviser if they put synthetic oil in the crankcase. She told me "do you know how much that would cost us?" Amazing.

I guess that's why there was no hot water in the bathroom when I went to wash my hands after I used the restroom while I was waiting for the service to be performed.

So my point is, how do you actually know what oil they are putting in, synthetic or dino? If one plans on keeping the vehicle do you go to the extra extent of just dumping their oil when you get it back from scheduled service and dump your own synthetic oil in ?

If you lease the car or plan on owning it for only 4 years then I guess it doesn't much matter. But I'm the kind of person that takes good care of everything I own and sometimes providing the maintenance yourself, to me, is well worth the effort. At least you know that it's been done correctly.

And by stating the above I don't mean to cast any aspersions on Mini, BMW or anybody else.

 

Here's pics and answers to your questions, although my post #4 above already answered them too.....

http://new.minimania.com/web/Item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

 

I had the oil changed on my R53 around 1500 miles, I was going to a BMW DE weekend so had it done when I did the pre-check at the authorized MINI service place. It seemed to serve me well as I had 5+ years relatively trouble free.
On my '11 I'll probably do the same thing using the kit that MCS Fever linked to above. Just wondering what everyone thinks of the following additional item.
http://new.minimania.com/web/item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

Annette

 

Thanks again. I overlooked the info in post #4 and thanks for the PM with the info. You're a good egg

 

Magnetized oil drain plug is always a good item to have.




.

 

Thanks, will add it to the cart. I'm guessing this will fit the CM, even though it doesn't specify in the description.

Annette

 

The common choices start w/ Mini 5W30 synthetic. In our area, it is cheaper at $6.50/qt at the SF Mini dealer than the synthetics at the auto parts chain stores now.

Another common one is Mobil 1. BUT, not just any grade. People may assume erroneously they are all good/the same except for viscosity choice. In particular neither 5W30 nor OW30 have the right certifications for extended drain intervals that Mini uses. As in, no not the stuff usually at Costco or Wallyworld. But, OW-4O does. OW-40 is at all chain auto stores in our area, and sometimes on sale from $8 down (rarely) to as low as $5.

If you still want a 30W, another choice is Castrol Euro Formula OW-30. Has to be that one, not many others sold by Castrol. Available where I live anyway at Autozone. Bottle says "European Formula" right on the main label, so look carefully.

Lots of other specialty oils too; see R56 or R55 board for more posts (or gen 1 boards). But net, if you like the KISS principle, just buy 5 bottles of oil at the dealer (only a 1/4-1/2 quart used initially from the last bottle), a filter cartridge with sealing ring and gasket, and call it good. If you intend DIY, MINI filters are easily obtained on line via ebay and otherwise. I plan on every 5K on an S (turbo) for what it's worth, basically doing 2 of three oil changes if the Mini light interval is going to trend to 15K miles. If it were a non-S, I might do it every 7,500 and thus do every other change while it has the 3/36 service deal.

 

http://new.minimania.com/web/item/G2.../InvDetail.cfm

It will not fit my CM

 

The capacity isn't listed in the Clubman manual either. I'm guessing it's an incentive to have the dealership do it.

4.4 US quarts for our generation MINIs.

 

You don't need the long life, extended drain interval oil if you're going to change it twice a year or every 7500 like I do, and good full synthetic should do the trick.

That said, I have a little different perspective - as long as the car is in warranty I use the factory oil filter and factory MINI (synthetic) oil, that way if there's ever a warranty question - they can't blame it on non standard parts or oil. After the warranty period I'll probably continue with this strategy tho, as the cost just isn't so much more than the aftermarket parts.

I changed mine the first time at 3K, as I was heading out on a long trip. The oil felt gritty and the filter was very dirty. I changed it approx twice a year or every 7500 after that and now (at 30K) you can look into the valve area and it looks as clean as when it was new, and the oil still feels very clean when I drain it. This may mean I'm changing it more often than is truly needed, but to me the extra cost is worth it.

One more point. There have been some instances of turbo failure, in every case I've been able to document so far the owners have been following the extended drain intervals, relying on the computer to tell them when to change the oil. All of these failures happen the same way - the turbo's oil drain or return line is clogged up causing the bearing to fail. Seems to me clean oil will make sure this can't happen - it just seems like good and cheap insurance to me.

 

On the topic of oil changes,
where does everyone get their "non scheduled oil changes" done at
a. the dealership,
b. at home, or
c. at a specialized oil change place - a la Jiffy lube????

 

Never at c., you can't ever trust those places. In the past I'd do it myself or have a mechanic I trust do it with supplies I buy, but honestly with the MCS I just stuck to the OBC computer, and the dealership.

 

There's a BMW/MINI service shop not far from me. After I found it and went in to check them out I discovered the owner and 1 of the mechanics went to the same high school as me, just a couple of years behind. We,of course, know a lot of the same people. So now I go in, take some lunch in and hang out with them while they change the oil. The owner is also an instructor for the BMW DEs so there are always a few BMWs or MINIs in the shop getting some pretty cool upgrades so I love to check out the mods while I'm there.
If he weren't up the road, I'd take it to the dealership, I wouldn't trust anyone else with it.
Annette

 

Just updated our site - YES, it will fit the COUNTRYMAN. The COUNTRYMAN uses the same drain plug as other Gen2 models.

 

I think you are on the right track in general, but technically the issue is a little different that what I believe you are thinking. My understanding here goes back to first gen Audi turbo's in the mid 80's, before they had water cooled bearings and after run small water circ. pumps. Those are common place now, so issues reduced.

Anyway, it's not that the oil is physically dirty and somehow gunk gets into the bearing area or lines. If so, the filter of course would be plugged literally solid. Instead, what is happening is the additive package in the oil is breaking down over time and use and heat cycling. As it does, the oils ability to deal with that heat is reduced. Then it can literally cook in that critical center turbo shaft bearing area where it gets super hot (more so after sudden shut down), and that sludge ends up in the oil passages. Very much like cholesterol in the arteries if left untreated. And treatment is simple--fresh oil at times to get the additive package back. And in general, synthetics can tolerate sustained heat much better to begin with, hence why almost always now found w/ turbo's. Good additive packs can of course clean up some of the old sludge "plaque") too.

Extended drain interval oils are also directly tied to this--additive package (anti sludge, viscosity stabilizers, etc.) have to hold up for those longer intervals, with the sensor system making the call on when the limits have been reached.