Beyond garbage hahaha!

 

Figured someone on here would answer....would you rather I start a separate thread?

 

Read this thread if you're thinking about Racechip:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...group-buy.html

 

Yeah, I've yet to see a shred of proof that the racechip actually does anything. You can see the dyno results for the JB+ on the BMS web site for the N18 motor. Plus you've got all the NAM folks who've got the JB+ and can vouch for the fact that it works.

 

stay away from that, go with the BMS jb+, the bmw community have been using the BMS boxes and rave about them. i have heard very bad thing about the racechip.

 

Hey guys,
I put some money aside for some mods and was wondering weather I should get the allta cold air intake or the bms jb+. Any opinions on which I could get first?

 

JB+ all the way. Cold air intakes are for sound. Just use a panel filter by K&N or aFe. Enjoy!

 

I'm close to pulling the trigger on this, but quick question: anyone have any problems with it? I seem to always be the exception to the rule when it comes to mods: if it can go wrong, it somehow does. Any long term impacts to the engine?

 

There are many people on here that are using it and I have yet to see someone posting about a "real" problem. Some of the early beta testers probably have 20k miles using the JB+.

Just keep it at the stock setting and run 93 octane if you have access to it.

 

At the default setting it is generally like getting the JCW tuning kit flash from the dealer on a S motor, so the engine was purposely detuned to give that headroom. On the JCW you might have a little more headroom than the GP due to the lower CR, but this is all speculation. If you push something harder you are going to wear it out faster. All you can do is be reasonable with your expectations, change fluids a little more often and enjoy the ride.

 

Of course I'm the one idiot who cannot install it himself, despite the simple instructions provided. I'm having a hell of a time unplugging MAF connector; the retaining clip simply wont release the connector and I'm a bit afraid to crank on it too hard. Any advice for this modding noob? >.<

 

A tiny screwdriver to give you a little leverage. Also pushing the plug in helps as you lift the tab a .05mm and then pull back. Also make sure don't pull on the wires

Sent from my iPhone Office

 

I have the same problem. A pair of needle nose pliers does the trick. You just want to use the pliers pinch the tab at the end of the connector and it will come right off. Mine just won't come off with my fingers alone.

 

Got a CEL yesterday, all of a sudden. Car is running fine, but I have no way to clear it, so I yanked off the jb+ before taking it to the dealer just to be safe. I was afraid the car would feel like a sled without it, but to be honest, I hardly noticed the difference.

Dealer has since called back, and the code it threw was a low idle warning. They had never seen that code before, and the recommendation is to just clear the code and monitor it. So I guess I'll leave the tune off for a while and see what goes. I didn't have any problem with it while it was on; but again, I'm still scratching my head about it apparently not doing all that much, at least not by my seat-of-the-pants dyno.

 

I also got a cel this morning! The car didn't go into reduced power or anything like that so I'm going to take the tune off and go to the dealer later on. Hope its nothing serious.

 

You know that you can stop by any Auto Zone and they will read and reset the code's for free. Not sure how far away your Mini dealer's are , but investing in a OBDII code reader for less than $100 is also an option. Ive had the BMS installed in my 2012 All4S for 8 or 9 months with no issues. I did not make any changes to the factory adjustment and always run top tier fuel 93 in my CM. One time while on the highway I had no choice than to stop and put a no name fuel in and wouldn't you know it with that fuel during a pedal to the floor run I did get a code. It was a lean cylinder code. I reset, Put better better fuel and no codes since. I dont consider that event an issue, it was my fault for the cheap fuel. I do now carry a bottle of good octane booster in case I need to use cheap fuel again.

 

I should get my juicebox by Monday, can't wait to put it on and try it out

 

Juicebox?

 

Ordered BMS today and they refunded me right away and told me they could not ship to CA or sell in CA. Now what do I do?

 

JB+, aka juice box

 

That's kind of odd considering Burger Tuning is located in CA. You sure you're ordering from the right site?

You could try ordering from Way Motor Works if BMS won't sell to you.

 

I believe they got a cease and desist letter from the CARB police or crap like that. So yeah see if a reseller will sell it to you.

 

Honestly, I don't know why Californians keep voting for this bureaucratic nonsense.

 

Keep it green come on who doesn't want electric cars and saving trees with doves around.

All kidding aside, I don't get it but they don't catch all the weed lovers at Mission Dolores park...

I feel bad for most of the California tuners or car crowd:-(.

 

Has anybody turned the dial down a notch or 2 to play it safe? I currently run it on the default setting and only use 93 octane and haven't had any issues for close to 10,000 miles. That being said, I want my engine to last as long as possible. Does turning it down just reduce the amount of boost slightly?