Hey guys!

So I have been having weird issues with my 2013 Mini Cooper S Coupe starting in the past few months, yet I was able to fix it with random changes, but then it doesn't start again. It's a little long, but I want to give ya'll the full details so I can figure out just WTF is going on. Let me explain:

It first started having problems not starting a few months ago. I would put in the key, all the lights would turn on and it would try to start but would fail. After I tried a few more times by cycling the ignition, it would start no problem. Then shortly after that wouldn't work and nothing I did would make it start. Then I got the bright idea to try the other key after reading that sometimes the battery doesn't hold charge anymore from the dock in the dash. BAM started strong with no problems and haven't had the same problem since.

Then I did my own oil change for the first time yesterday (what a hassle for the first time lol). When I drained the oil, it definitely did not seem like 4.4~ quarts came out, which was weird. Next comes removing the oil filter. It was impossible to get to the filter housing without fully removing the coolant tank and when I did, all the coolant fluid came out and spilled on the parts below the coolant tank. Okay fine no big deal, I'll just refill the coolant fluid. I finally get to the oil filter housing and notice there is a gap between the rim of the housing and the actual engine. I had the oil change done at a shop who complained about how hard it was to replace the oil filter. I'm thinking great, they didn't screw it in all the way. This could have created a slow leak over the last 6 months, which would explain the seemingly small amount of oil that came out. Pissed off, yet optimistic since I'm here fixing it myself now. I changed the filter using a new MINI Cooper K&P Engineering High Performance Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter W/ Machine Finished End Caps, AMSOIL European 0W-40 Classic ESP 502.00/ 505.00 Synthetic Engine Oil - 6 Quarts, and Magnetic Oil Drain Plug M16X1.5 - MINI Cooper. The links to these products can be found here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-k-and-p-...s/s35~k-and-p/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...3862ecs01a3kt/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-amsoil-p...uarts/efoqtkt/

I put everything back together, refilled the coolant with peak European Formula Blue 50/50 pre-dilluted. Went to start it, and she coughed but didn't start. Okay fine, just needs to rebuild the pressure in the oil lines and coolant lines. Tried to start a few more times, BAM started up strong and ran for 5 minutes. Turned it off, then restarted just fine, then drove her around for 5 minutes. No check engine lights, nothing. Checked the oil level and put a little more oil in since the dip stick was a little low. Started her up strong and ran again for 5 minutes. No check engine lights on, still going strong. Okay cool, I did everything right. Checked multiple times, no leaks.

Came out this morning, and car wouldn't start with the same symptoms as when I changed keys, but it wouldn't start at all.

Now my final guess is that I have been reading that there is an issue with the ignition coils going bad and causing misfires. I just realized that I've been suffering from misfires for a few weeks now. Every now and then it'll lurch and lose power, then come back. I was planning on ordering new ignition coils anyways, but could that be the issue? I also read that there was a problem with the car starting in certain low temperatures. I live in Las Vegas and when I went to start my car this morning it was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm not sure if this could be the cause because for the past month or so, the temperatures have been into the 30's as it's been unusually cold. I also have a Bluetooth OBD reader and while the car was running before it said my battery is about 14 volts, which I understand is normal. I'm all out of guesses, short of replacing the ignition coils.

Here is a list of all the aftermarket parts in my mini cooper:

GFB DV+ for Mini Applications (T9352)
NM Eng. Engine Torque Arm Insert (NM.228856)
NM Eng. Hi-Flow Induction Kit for N18 engines
NM Eng. Air Charge Pipe
Wagner Tuning Competition Intercooler for 2010+ Mini Cooper S R55/56/57/58/59/60
Stage 2 Tune from Manic Mini
Milltek Catless Downpipe for Mini Cooper R56 and up
NGK Spark Plugs
M7 Pre-Intercooler Charge Pipe
M7 Vortex 2 Scoop - 100% Prepreg Carbon Fiber

I have no catalytic converters and have a straight pipe out the back with no muffler
Have only used 91 octane since I bought the car brand new in 2013, which is also the octane required by Stage 2 tune.


I've had the water pump replaced by the Mini dealer, due to their recall.
I also just had the thermostat replaced since I was getting an error code for thermostat heater circuit open.

Any help is greatly appreciated! THANK YOU!!!

 

How old is your battery? That sounds (somewhat) similar to symptoms I was getting right before my battery croaked. Just a thought, I'm no expert.

 

I can't really remember to be honest. Maybe about 5 years old?

 

Battery needs check and tested. They check for a loose connection at the battery terminals to the starter.