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The weak links in our engines are pistons, timing chain and carbon accumulation. With a 2012 you have the newer chain, and the JCW pistons are beefier than the S pistons. That only leaves carbon build up which the N14 is worse at than the N18. Have the valves cleaned at 40 to 50k intervals though and you shouldn't run into an issue.
well... this is going to be a matter of preference. There's nothing like the 3rd pedal in an Auto, but if you're in stop-and go traffic a lot... I love my Manual but nobody likes stop-n-go, least of all in a Manual.
Gotta agreed with GS on preference. I've had both and prefer the manual but the JCW auto is no slouch by any means. Then there are those times where a manual can be a little too exciting. Like when trying to pull into heavy traffic and stalling it. Nope not boring at all.
But if you think you may ever want to upgrade to a real limited slip differential then a manual is your only choice.
I have the AT and like it. In the sport mode it is fine. In normal mode it wants to be in a higher gear than I would have it in with a MT (which I drove for 7 yrs on my MCS). It kicks down fast with the pedal and of course with the paddle shifters.
I have the AT and like it. In the sport mode it is fine. In normal mode it wants to be in a higher gear than I would have it in with a MT (which I drove for 7 yrs on my MCS). It kicks down fast with the pedal and of course with the paddle shifters.
I have an AT and I only drive it in SPORT Mode using the F1 style shifting. Freaking love it.
I am also wondering this myself. I can get a roughly 20k mile 2012 or 2013. The 2012 goes for about 1k less in general. I am still debating should I go 2012 and put that 1k to good use on mods, Or go 2013 for the reliability factor... Then again it appears that i will have to replace the internals on either engine should I decide to go Big turbo. So therefore the 2012 allows buying better internals for the fun factor...
I am also wondering this myself. I can get a roughly 20k mile 2012 or 2013. The 2012 goes for about 1k less in general. I am still debating should I go 2012 and put that 1k to good use on mods, Or go 2013 for the reliability factor... Then again it appears that i will have to replace the internals on either engine should I decide to go Big turbo. So therefore the 2012 allows buying better internals for the fun factor...
What month manufacture is the 2012? At some point in that model year MINI switched the manufacturer of the high pressure fuel pump from Continental to... I don't remember what, maybe Bosch? Anyway, avoid the Continental pump if you can as it has proven to be a common failure point. If it craps out, there goes your $1k (no joke, that's the part cost alone!)