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  #251  
Old 07-10-2018, 10:42 AM
Tigger2011 Tigger2011 is offline
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Thanks for the hands on experience with regards to bearing wear. Makes me feel a little better about spacing things out. Just spoke to Dan and he already sent the RMA info and will get with the parts guys to sort out the bolt diameter / part number issue.

Picked up the A94 Midnight Black Metallic base/clear coat as well as the adhesion promoter for the trim. Now to start prepping everything. I haven't seen photos of anyone running these flares with the splash guards. Hopefully I'll be able to heat and reshape the splash guards without messing them up. Spacing the wheels is gonna make splash and slinging more of an issue but there's no way I'm putting rally style splash guards on. Looking forward to finally being able to install the Ohlins on the front.
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  #252  
Old 07-11-2018, 07:03 PM
dube53 dube53 is offline
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Vlad will never see those kind of numbers lol. Nor did I ever say he would. My intent in making the statement was to point out the increased capacity of the drive train and that the axles will be next. With Vlad my plan is to build as strong of a foundation as possible. First with the drivetrain then later in the engine. 100 octane race fuel and meth will get you to 400 but that would make a pretty impractical daily driver. God knows what it would take to get to 600 but I'll bet good money it wouldn't last very long.

I agree spacers will make it harder on the bearings. However, I know several track enthusiasts and even a professional driver running spacers to make the wheel base wider which increases stability and cornering power. Seems like there's always trade offs with performance.

Somewhere in all these changes I have to decide on a BBK as the factory Brembo's will not cut in on track when pushed hard. AP Racing, StopTech and TCE Performance has some nice kits but I'm also in discussion with EBC about a BBK for the Mini.
Cars are carefully designed by engineers and mods crafted by car enthusiasts.

I believe I can trust the the first ones. As for testing the physics laws, it depends if the purpose is intended on a racetrack or on public roads. I am sure an insurance company may question these facts if a car is heavily modified.

For 20 years, I lived in Vegas where some Cadillac guys were driving on 13" wheels with spacers. Believe me, I saw pretty weird stuff happening.
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  #253  
Old 07-13-2018, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Tigger2011 View Post
Thanks for the hands on experience with regards to bearing wear. Makes me feel a little better about spacing things out. Just spoke to Dan and he already sent the RMA info and will get with the parts guys to sort out the bolt diameter / part number issue.

Picked up the A94 Midnight Black Metallic base/clear coat as well as the adhesion promoter for the trim. Now to start prepping everything. I haven't seen photos of anyone running these flares with the splash guards. Hopefully I'll be able to heat and reshape the splash guards without messing them up. Spacing the wheels is gonna make splash and slinging more of an issue but there's no way I'm putting rally style splash guards on. Looking forward to finally being able to install the Ohlins on the front.

Welcome. Here to help out my fellow R58 owners. Taking mine to the PVGP this weekend. http://www.pvgp.org/
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  #254  
Old 07-16-2018, 01:36 PM
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Got some time this weekend to do a couple of little things that have been hanging out there on my to do list. Customer vehicles always take precedence over Vlad. Luckily he hasn't held it against me yet. I kinda got a little tired of the way the shifter boot looked so I used a rubber grommet to hold the boot half way down the shifter. I think its a nice improvement.






I also finally got around to installing the OCC. As I mentioned previously I don't care for the way most RX cans are routed, and based on feedback some users have been experiencing pressure buildup in the crankcase. I believe this is caused primarily by how the "clean" side is routed which provides insufficient vacuum under boost.

I used the factory Norma connectors by using a heat gun to slightly heat the factory flex tubing. This allowed the connector to be easily removed and they fit perfectly in a 3/4" hose.



A 3/4" hose will also fit nice and snug over the clean side output with a little oil on the inside of the tube.



These lines were then connected via a 3/4" x 3/4" x 5/8" Tee fitting and routed to the center port of the OCC. The aft port of the OCC was routed to the intake manifold with a 1/2" hose and a one way check valve. The check valve prevents the OCC from being pressurized when in boost. After the check valve there is a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter then 3/4" hose with the factory Norma connector going to the manifold.


The forward OCC port connects to a 5/8" line to the regular connection on the turbo inlet pipe. I purchased a larger one way check valve for this line from UPR. The check valve allows vacuum draw under boost but prevents air being pulled through the OCC and into the manifold when not in boost.


Here's everything put together. My apologies for the dirty engine but I didn't have time to clean it up and was starting to loose daylight. I also had to fabricate a 2" x 7" L bracket to lower the OCC sufficiently so that the elbow fittings on the top of the can would clear the DDMWorks Intake. The elbows I'm not real crazy about either. The AN/NPT fittings on the OCC are 3/8" but the lines themselves have a 1/4" ID.

Installing the OCC this way allowed me to save all the factory hardware in case I'm not pleased with the results. The drain line out of the OCC is routed to the underside of the vehicle and tie wrapped to the subframe. This way I can just slide a small pan under Vlad and open the petcock. I'll be keeping an eye on what the OCC catches as well as any changes in oil consumption and post any surprises.

I've read that you tried another OCC arrangement in a later post, but I'm wondering where you ended up with your OCC. Did you decide to block off the passenger side? I believe that you mentioned that....did the design with the Tee not work? I have an RXPerformance OCC....not hooked up though...and I'm wondering if it will work. Thx
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  #255  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:35 AM
Tigger2011 Tigger2011 is offline
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Yes I blocked off the passenger side port on the valve cover. Now the clean goes direct into the center port of the RX can. The rear exit port on the can is connected to the intake manifold with a one way check valve. This prevents boost from pressuring the can and back flowing into the intake tube. The forward exit on the can is connected to the intake tube and also includes a one way check valve. This prevents air from being pulled out of the intake tube through the can and into the intake manifold when not in boost. In essence the two external check valves have replaced the functionality built into the valve cover. System has been working great and maintains 1" of vacuum in normal driving and boost. The only time the crank case is not under vacuum is when the intake manifold is at atmospheric pressure when transitioning to boost. No great loss as the factory valve cover worked the same way.

Every three or four tanks of gas I open the petcock drain on the can and the oil filler cap. Since the check valves prevent air from entering the can if you don't open the filler cap the can wont drain.
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