07 Mini Cooper R56 - Rebuild won't start - but cranks lifelessly
 

Hello,
Folks I've looked thru a lot of threads and I need some help.

I have a 07 Mini cooper S R56, that the head was just replaced with a rebuilt head.

The head was installed into my lower end that I'm sure is good. Before I took off the old head, I could start It. The problem with
the old head on postmortem was that it had a cracked inlet valve - so it was running crappie on three cylinders.

Fast forward, I had a local engine guy re-furbish another head. with new valves.

When I installed it and started it. the following occurs.

It just cranks, with nonlife as it turns.

FACTS:
- All the cylinders have 0 compression.
- when I has crank/turn it thru, it clicks.- the valves appear to be opening and closing properly.
- I took the head back to the engine guy
> he sprayed brake cleaner into the inlet and said it's not leaking.
> He also said I need to remove the oil in the lifters (by comply compressing them till the spring worked.)

After all that I re-installed the head again. Same thing occurred. Cranks but has not compression.

Another mechanic suggested that this is timing related ...

His hypnosis was that the crank makes 2 revolutions for one cycle.
Maybe you have locked transmission in the wrong phase of the cycle.

So, I locked it the transmission with a extra revelation.
Result was the same.

HELP !!!!!!!


I'm going to remove the head again.
This time for peace of mind, I'm going to remove one inlet and exhaust valve and compare to my old ones.

Any more suggestions


-

A leakdown test would tell you if its valves or piston rings. One thing to note, as it is something I did, if the injectors are out of the block it will have 0 compression as they are direct injection.

Thank you .
.. I will definitely check both the leak test and the injectors.
(would answer all the scenarios)
[cross my fingers that you are right]

thanks

Also me and my father checked our valve seal with windex (glass cleaner) or a liquid that flows better than water

No compression? I'd have to guess the cam timing is off. Probably 180 degrees off. You or someone you trust needs to confirm the valve timing is correct.

Not sure I understand the directions to remove oil from the lifters. Generally lifters, at least the hydraulic kind, require oil. When assembling engines the lifter would be submerged in a container of clean engine oil and worked -- pumped -- with a wooden dowel rod to fully charge the lifter with oil.

Rock C,

You said:
>> No compression? I'd have to guess the cam timing is off.
>> Probably 180 degrees off.
>> You or someone you trust needs to confirm the valve timing is correct.

i have a manual transmission.. When I place the locke in for the fly-wheel. How do I verify that
I placed it on the right cycle.

Nick mensioned:
>> Make sure the engine is in time when disassembled, mostly so the crank is 90* over TDC from start to finish.

Does that mean when I lock the fly wheel, if I where to rotate the the crack clockwise, what would happen next?

?? Pistons 1&4 rise
also
which valves would open or close

Dee

the verdict is that there is some leakage but not enough to cause me grief..

I was with an aircraft mechanic - he checked all the valves and the operation of the rockers.
He says the car should start.

He says I have to dive into the timing. - the information has to be somewhere on the internet.

The key is to Know how the crank should be situate before locking it.

I would like to know what to look for that will tell me that I have locked the Crank in the
right place.

thanks

Hello,
Found the problem. The compression was fine.

Issue was terminal 15.

Car started the other day .

Sounds like it was an easy fix just hard to find :thumbsup: