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R56 Coolant Crossover Pipe - Isnt there a better way
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
R56 Coolant Crossover Pipe - Isnt there a better way
Hello Everyone,
New to the Mini world. I like to work on vehicles, mainly have been into Volkswagens now for a few years. Bought cars needing alot of attention so I could fix them and let my kids drive them so they didnt drive mine. Well, last month I purchased a 2008 Cooper S Chili red manual. Beautiful little thing. I wanted to try my hand at a Mini. So I jumped right in. Had so much fun tearing it down and putting it back together. As I got it started, there were no visible leaks. I was even more excited to drive it. After driving it, I noticed the coolant level slowly going down to where I had to keep adding coolant. So this last weekend, I rented the coolant pressure testing kit from Autozone to see if I could find the leak. FOUND IT! That darn crossover pipe leaks going into the water pump. Now this is a brand new pipe from Febi. The one I took out came out in pieces at the beginning, so a new one I got. I thought maybe I had rolled the Oring or something, so yesterday I purchased a new Oring and replaced it. Used the pressure test equipment again and didnt see any leak, so I put things back together patting myself on the back. Today I drove it to see what it would do. Let it cool down for a few hours, (napping) and checked only to find a puddle under the car. Still leaking in the same place. Except now it leaks worse than before I put the new Oring in.
So sorry for the long explanation. My question is, isnt there a better way to assure this thing is not going to leak? I could RTV the heck out of, but I really shouldnt have to do that. Is the Febi pipe inferior to the expensive OEM pipe? Am I putting this pipe in wrong? Is there a secret combination such as twisting it a little one way or the other? Or do I just use some RTV and be done with it?
We had some people state issues. Make sure the old stuff has been cleaned up and try some lights grease/ silicone spray on the o-ring and a tiny bit on the back side of that waterpump, sounds like its just a little too thick and rolling out.
We had some people state issues. Make sure the old stuff has been cleaned up and try some lights grease/ silicone spray on the o-ring and a tiny bit on the back side of that waterpump, sounds like its just a little too thick and rolling out.
Thanks for the reply. All the old broken parts were removed when I tore it down. Replaced water pump in the process. Light grease was applied this time around. Pipe slide in smoothly. I followed the link you posted, sounds like many dont like aftermarket parts, but others have had success. Maybe more grease is needed, I dont know. I put just a little on my fingers and applied a very small amount. I do have silicone spray, maybe I should try that.
I have found that it is not so much the aftermarket pipe but the aftermarket o-ring that comes on them. I had a slow trickle after replacing one of mine. Took it back off and could clearly see that the o-ring had already started to degrade and harden in less than a week. Ordered a genuine o-ring which was much more pliable and soft and its been good for months now. Check the parting seam on the pipe too when you take the o-ring off. Some pipes have a visible ridge where it can indent the o-ring and cause weeping especially when hot. Just scrape it down till its smooth.
when you pulled the old coolant pipe, did all of it come out? sometimes the broken lip of the old pipe stays stuck inside the waterpump housing backside.
there really isnt a better way to replace it other than removing the intake manifold. have you dont a coolant pressure test yet?
I have found that it is not so much the aftermarket pipe but the aftermarket o-ring that comes on them. I had a slow trickle after replacing one of mine. Took it back off and could clearly see that the o-ring had already started to degrade and harden in less than a week. Ordered a genuine o-ring which was much more pliable and soft and its been good for months now. Check the parting seam on the pipe too when you take the o-ring off. Some pipes have a visible ridge where it can indent the o-ring and cause weeping especially when hot. Just scrape it down till its smooth.
The pipe is a Febi that came with an Oring. I thought I may have jacked it up so I went to the Mini dealer and go the OEM ring. I will follow your suggestion and check the seam to see if that could be what I am dealling with.
when you pulled the old coolant pipe, did all of it come out? sometimes the broken lip of the old pipe stays stuck inside the waterpump housing backside.
there really isnt a better way to replace it other than removing the intake manifold. have you dont a coolant pressure test yet?
I am pretty sure I have all the parts from the old pipe out. While I had the cylinder head off to lap the valves, I put in a new water pump as well. As mentioned, the car was losing coolant as it was driven, but never showed any sign of a leak on the ground. Over the weekend, I got the loan a tool from Autozone to do the pressure testing. This is how I found the new pipe leaking at the water pump. I did take the intake out since I agreed that it is so much easier to work without it there. With it under pressure, I was able to see the small drip. However, I started with 15 psi which didnt reveal anything. It was when I put in about 21 psi that I saw the leak. Thinking it was the Oring that may have rolled, I drove to the Mini dealer to get the OEM Oring. I put just enough grease on my finger that I thought would give it some help. It went right in as I tightened the thermostat housing. Still, maybe I need to put more grease or use the silicone spray I have. Next step, I thought maybe pull the water pump to see how the pipe is seated from the inside. The crazy thing is I have dump coolant and refill to test it. So after I put in the OEM Oring, I put the pressure tester on it and since I didnt see any dripped, I assumed I had this licked. It was the next day I drove it a couple of miles and then let is sit, to come out in a few hours to see the small puddle formed under the car. Thats when I reached out to all you good people. I am leaving town wednesday and will not have anytime before leaving to mess with this again. So when I return and can figure this out, I will report back.
I’m a tech for mini for years. One thing I’ve noticed is these cars are so sensitive to aftermarket parts. There’s a lip/tab on the coolant pipe. That should be downwards. Usually we find remnants in the backside of the waterpump. Hopefully this turns out to be an easy fix. Also make sure the wire harness is routed correctly.
Any questions lmk
Update on this issue. I purchased another pipe, this time from ebay. First thing I noticed, was the Oring was a little more pronounced or thicker. I had a tough time getting it in the water pump side because of that. I had it greased up pretty well. If I tried pushing it in by hand, it would push some of the Oring out. I ended up using my clamp as a spreader so that I could hold the pipe straight into the hole while the clamp pushed on the pipe. It did go in. From what I can tell, by mirror or touch, the Oring is now seated. I filled the coolant back up and let it sit since Saturday evening. No leak to this point. Tonight I will get it put back together and let it run. The last time it showed not signs of leaking until I ran it. I hope this works. Now I try to figure out why I get an oil leak from the vacuum pump even with a new Oring on that.
I have a 2009 R55 and the same issue. Water pump replaced roughly 21k ago, and thermo/housing replaced roughly 11k ago. Ive been under the car and confirmed the crossover pipe on the pump side is leaking... I'm guessing either the pipe cracked or the o-ring is broken down (I would assume they used a new o-ring when pump was replaced, but who knows)... when I had the pump replaced, they kept the original crossover pipe and put it right back in. I wish I was aware of this issue, because I obviously would have told them to replace it, ITS PLASTIC! Lack of common sense, especially from certified techs, is frustrating. Regardless, I ordered parts to day to replace the crossover pipe along with the gasket for the oil filter housing... I've had a slow oil leak there for some time now and was too lazy to fix it so I've just been topping her off every two weeks.
My question: While I have the motor torn apart to replace both the crossover tube on the back side of the engine, and also the exhaust manifold in front so I can replace the oil filter housing..... are there any other wear and tear parts you guys suggest I replace while I have these parts of the engine taken apart/off the motor? Any input and/or suggestion in terms of plastic parts, sensors, seals etc... would be appreciated - 2009 R55, naturally aspirated, 6-speed manual, 137k miles. Thanks guys and gals!
PS does anyone know of aftermarket rubber hose or aluminum crossover pipe instead of the ridiculous plastic tube? Might be a million dollar idea
I ordered the same Febi pipe since it sounds like the pipe is fine, but the o-rings are garbage. Did you use a silicone spray or a silicone paste? I ordered parts today, and I'm starting my tear-down tomorrow. Also, when you removed the plastic bits from the water pump, were you able to kist do it with your fingers? Im thinking about maybe using a very low power vacuum to make sure I get everything out.
I have found the Aftermarket O Rings are different material and leaked within days. Replacing them with the genuine Mini O rings solved my slow leak on brand new pipe and thermostat. The were a much tighter fit as well.
I used the Febi the first time around. The one I took out came out in pieces. Since I was doing the water pump as well, I was able to get all broken pieces out. As mentioned in the beginning, mine leaked. So I went to Mini and got an OEM O ring, but put it on the Febi pipe. There is about a $60-65 between Febi and OEM. This did not fix the leak. So I then ordered the $14 pipe on Ebay. The O ring was thicker and as I mentioned, I had to push it in with my clamp/spreader. So far its doing Ok. Will I see a break down in a short time, maybe. So looking back, spending the extra $60-65 could have been a better choice. As to the vacuum, I would just use a good powerful vacuum. On the R56, when the pipe is out, all you have is the end of the water pump. I am not familiar with the R55 yet, but if the oil filter housing is like the R56, I replaced the oil cooler seals as well. When putting this new pipe, the O ring was making it difficult because of the size. I tried silcone spray, but ended up using some grease.
All we use is rubber care to get the pipe in. The water pipe doesn’t need to always be replaced. Maybe 1 out of 10 were leaking.
I agree, change the oil filter housing gaskets. They always fail.
Hob, did you take the intake manifold off for easier access? I’ve got my 2008 R56 MCS on racks and am replacing the thermostat housing. From reading these posts I’ve decided to order the crossover pipe from ECS. I’ve got it stripped down but haven’t drained coolant yet. Will do that tomorrow but will let it sit until pipe arrives. Thanks.
I did take the intake manifold off. Its pretty easy to take it off. The problem I had with this crossover pipe was it was an after market pipe. It didnt want to go into the water pump side. I put alittle grease on it and put a clamp on it and squeezed alittle as I made sure it went into the pump without rolling the Oring. Buying from ECS tuning will give you a good pipe which I would assume will make it a bit easier.
Thanks for the quick reply. The manifold looks easy, five bolts if I remember. The pipe and thermostat are all the original parts, as I’m the original owner. I’ve got 215000 miles on her, replaced the clutch about 8000 miles ago and she runs like new.
Hob, one more question. Is there a gasket for each cylinder on the intake manifold, or does the gasket surround all four cylinders? Found the answer….. I guess I need four, …..what brand did you use?
Last edited by Josefz2; 10-27-2021 at 07:22 PM.
Reason: Add more info.
I did take the intake manifold off. Its pretty easy to take it off. .
There are 5 easily accessed bolts on top of the manifold but I thought there is also one very difficult to access underneath (Via Project Mini's N14 video) requiring coming in from the passenger wheel well. Did I misinterpret? Removing the manifold can certainly make accessing and positioning the water cross pipe an easier proposition.
Prior owner of my Mini S, N14, R56 did this for your problem. I ordered OEM crossover pipe, OEM coolant pump. Haven't received the parts yet Not sure how I'm going to clean up this mess with the aluminum block and potential for marring and permanent damage. So, I don't recommend RTV. attempt to seal times two, showing gray and orange sealant, crossover pipe to water pump, prior owner's repair Crossover pipe with sealant congealed after hardening, prior owner's repair
It is an honest to god nightmare. Worse design and engineering feature of any car every made. You hold the most critical element of a cooling system, the line running from the water pump to the thermostat and a $30+K car with an O-ring held in by pressure by a plastic pipe. That's it.
I have my water pump off and it is still a nightmare.
07-14-2019, 07:29 PM
