R56 What's the best year to buy if I want a fun little track car?
#1
What's the best year to buy if I want a fun little track car?
I haven't had a Mini in probably 10 years but recently got a bug to buy something to take to the track for drivers ed events. I've heard the gen 2 is the best Mini in terns of being able to mod it and get more power.
Is there a specific year I should be looking to buy?
Is there a specific year I should be looking to buy?
#4
I've heard the gen 2 is the best Mini in terns of being able to mod it and get more power.
I seriously disagree with that statement. What can you do to increase the boost in a turbo that can compare to the quick and easy pulley swap(s) than can significantly change the boost of the GEN1 supercharger?
the GEN2 N14 vs 18 and HPFP discussion points are valid for reliability (sometimes) but for modifications to increase power???? I don't think so ....
AND THEN
let us not forget the potential of Mini
vs MINI
THIS is the car that made Mini a famed name in racing . . . {not this one in particular, but you get the point . . . }
btw the Miata is a Fantastically mod-able track car ... tons of suppliers and resources ...... don't discount them ... been around longer than MINI too so more available ... and no import issues as with a Mini so more available hence points on that front as well.
(I had a 95 Miata til 07 and am still friends with the guy who bought it and still drives it)
I seriously disagree with that statement. What can you do to increase the boost in a turbo that can compare to the quick and easy pulley swap(s) than can significantly change the boost of the GEN1 supercharger?
the GEN2 N14 vs 18 and HPFP discussion points are valid for reliability (sometimes) but for modifications to increase power???? I don't think so ....
AND THEN
let us not forget the potential of Mini
vs MINI
THIS is the car that made Mini a famed name in racing . . . {not this one in particular, but you get the point . . . }
btw the Miata is a Fantastically mod-able track car ... tons of suppliers and resources ...... don't discount them ... been around longer than MINI too so more available ... and no import issues as with a Mini so more available hence points on that front as well.
(I had a 95 Miata til 07 and am still friends with the guy who bought it and still drives it)
Last edited by Capt_bj; 06-04-2019 at 02:40 PM.
#5
I've heard the gen 2 is the best Mini in terns of being able to mod it and get more power.
I seriously disagree with that statement. What can you do to increase the boost in a turbo that can compare to the quick and easy pulley swap(s) than can significantly change the boost of the GEN1 supercharger?
the GEN2 N14 vs 18 and HPFP discussion points are valid for reliability (sometimes) but for modifications to increase power???? I don't think so ....
I seriously disagree with that statement. What can you do to increase the boost in a turbo that can compare to the quick and easy pulley swap(s) than can significantly change the boost of the GEN1 supercharger?
the GEN2 N14 vs 18 and HPFP discussion points are valid for reliability (sometimes) but for modifications to increase power???? I don't think so ....
#6
#7
I don't have an opinion on Gen-2 or -3 since I've only driven a Gen-1 R53. I will say, however, that it's absolutely impossible to beat the sound of a carefully modified, supercharged Mini! Not to mention, if you intend to mod it for track-only, Gen-1s are a lot less expensive to purchase.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
I find my R53 to be a general pain in that *** in comparison to my R56.
In my experience, the R56 LCI is easier to wrench on and is a refinement of what the R53 was meant to be. If you go with the R53, you are going to want R56 brakes and rear trailing arms. If you want to change the rear anti-roll bar (you will) you'll have to drop the R53 rear subframe. The R53's steering wheel? It looks like the helm of the starship Enterprise (not in a good way). So you are going to want to replace that with the R56 wheel. That center exit exhaust actually kinks around the battery box that is conveniently located in the uninsulated boot, where it will be drained flat by the extreme cold outside or the extreme heat of the exhaust.
Bottom line: When I work on my R53, it is work. My R56 on the other hand, I enjoy spending time on it. My R53 is a quirky mess (driver's window stuck? Just punch it above the speaker) and my R56 just goes. Power wise, even stock, my R56 would smoke my R53 all day long. With the mods I've added, the R53 may as well be a Justa. For me, the R56 is my track car and the R53 is my quasi daily commuter. Your mileage may vary.
2004 R53 MC40 #911
2013 R56 MCS
2012 R60S (yeah, yeah...)
Not all R56's have to look as basic as the one CPT BJ posted...
In my experience, the R56 LCI is easier to wrench on and is a refinement of what the R53 was meant to be. If you go with the R53, you are going to want R56 brakes and rear trailing arms. If you want to change the rear anti-roll bar (you will) you'll have to drop the R53 rear subframe. The R53's steering wheel? It looks like the helm of the starship Enterprise (not in a good way). So you are going to want to replace that with the R56 wheel. That center exit exhaust actually kinks around the battery box that is conveniently located in the uninsulated boot, where it will be drained flat by the extreme cold outside or the extreme heat of the exhaust.
Bottom line: When I work on my R53, it is work. My R56 on the other hand, I enjoy spending time on it. My R53 is a quirky mess (driver's window stuck? Just punch it above the speaker) and my R56 just goes. Power wise, even stock, my R56 would smoke my R53 all day long. With the mods I've added, the R53 may as well be a Justa. For me, the R56 is my track car and the R53 is my quasi daily commuter. Your mileage may vary.
2004 R53 MC40 #911
2013 R56 MCS
2012 R60S (yeah, yeah...)
Not all R56's have to look as basic as the one CPT BJ posted...
The following users liked this post:
bugeye1031 (06-12-2019)
#10
#11
The following users liked this post:
scotty_r56s (06-05-2019)
#12
As I understand it, the N14 will be more open to ECU programming and tuning. However, it is known to have weak pistons will need to be de-coked regularly.
While the N18's ECU is pretty much locked down there are tunes available for it. The engine internals are stronger and the HPFP is more post later model HPFP is more capable. However, because the ECU is locked, you will not be able to put it on a dyno and squeeze every last drop of performance out of it.
It is sort of a trade off I guess.
#13
Isn't this saying the N18 is good for 15 more hp tuned?
http://www.manicmini.com/software/4584765948
http://www.manicmini.com/software/4584765948
#14
#15
#17
#18
#20
#21
The following users liked this post:
TheBigNewt (06-06-2019)
#23
#24
Gotta echo TheBigNewt. Look for a 2013-2014 JCW with manual trans, give it some love and enjoy. Spend some money on upgrading the driver and learn its limits. Start with tires, brake pads and SS lines. Then consider suspension upgrades, an LSD with good clutch and power upgrades last. Even a Stage 1 tune makes the JCW a rocket, but the other mods will make it a weapon on the track.