R56 2009 MCS, 134,000miles, major engine work rant... :-)
#1
2009 MCS, 134,000miles, major engine work rant... :-)
Hello all,
Though I'd share what I'm doing to keep mini "going", since wife likes it (I really do too). Going against financial logic and better judgment (to scrap the car). Decided rebuild, replace, renew, at considerable expense.
----
Issue that side-lined car:
Apparently, timing chain guide, or timing chain tensioner, or both "failed", causing engine to jump timing and allow exhaust vales to contact pistons and bend (ever so slightly).
Upon dropping oil pan, discovered that timing chain guides were in pieces and dip-stick was bent at 90deg angle.
----
Repair Job:
Remove head and replace all exhaust valves, clean intake valves
Remove all pistons and replace rings (oil control and compression)
Replace turbo (discovered waste gate had play and was not sealing)
Replace oil filter housing gaskets (might as well since there)
Already had a Detroit Tuned turbo oil supply line, so that was good.
Replace throttle (discovered it was damaged/malfunctioning)
Replace Turbo inlet hose (it was literally coming apart)
Replace spark plugs and all ignition coils
Replace vacuum pump (it appeared to be still good, but 9 years old and 134K miles, why not)
Got it all put back together, drove 300miles and car ran like new. *Then* stuttered like I had a bad tank of gas. My ScanguageII I have hooked up to ODBC port is showing mis-fire on all cylinders. So, will be going back under the knife tomorrow to, most likely, have HPFP replaced, along with fuel filter. This will be first time having HPFP replaced, so I cannot really complain, but when it rains, it pours!
wm
Though I'd share what I'm doing to keep mini "going", since wife likes it (I really do too). Going against financial logic and better judgment (to scrap the car). Decided rebuild, replace, renew, at considerable expense.
----
Issue that side-lined car:
Apparently, timing chain guide, or timing chain tensioner, or both "failed", causing engine to jump timing and allow exhaust vales to contact pistons and bend (ever so slightly).
Upon dropping oil pan, discovered that timing chain guides were in pieces and dip-stick was bent at 90deg angle.
----
Repair Job:
Remove head and replace all exhaust valves, clean intake valves
Remove all pistons and replace rings (oil control and compression)
Replace turbo (discovered waste gate had play and was not sealing)
Replace oil filter housing gaskets (might as well since there)
Already had a Detroit Tuned turbo oil supply line, so that was good.
Replace throttle (discovered it was damaged/malfunctioning)
Replace Turbo inlet hose (it was literally coming apart)
Replace spark plugs and all ignition coils
Replace vacuum pump (it appeared to be still good, but 9 years old and 134K miles, why not)
Got it all put back together, drove 300miles and car ran like new. *Then* stuttered like I had a bad tank of gas. My ScanguageII I have hooked up to ODBC port is showing mis-fire on all cylinders. So, will be going back under the knife tomorrow to, most likely, have HPFP replaced, along with fuel filter. This will be first time having HPFP replaced, so I cannot really complain, but when it rains, it pours!
wm
#2
Wow! I had similar issues (non-s Cooper, N12 engine). The timing chain and the tensioner were fine, but the head was warped and the head gasket was leaking between cylinder 1 and the the timing chain cavity; I found that on a leak-down test. Had a local shop mill the head and perform a complete valve job. Then 500 miles after putting it back together I dropped an intake valve seat with misfires reported. I'll bet you lunch you have a dropped valve seat (if not one, many). Dropped valve seats are a common problem with these Prince engines because the engineers used a seat that is too shallow. I had to pull my cylinder head again and have all valve seats replaced with taller seats.
I did a compression check after the misfires, and cylinder #1 had no compression. I pulled the valve cover, and one of the cylinder 1 valves was open and one was closed. The valve that was open was the valve that dropped the seat. Pull your valve cover and make sure each pair of valves (for intake and exhaust) are at the same height. If they aren't, you've dropped a valve seat too.
Check out this site:
http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB113017-1.pdf
I did a compression check after the misfires, and cylinder #1 had no compression. I pulled the valve cover, and one of the cylinder 1 valves was open and one was closed. The valve that was open was the valve that dropped the seat. Pull your valve cover and make sure each pair of valves (for intake and exhaust) are at the same height. If they aren't, you've dropped a valve seat too.
Check out this site:
http://www.engineprofessional.com/TB/TB113017-1.pdf
#3
Hello all,
Though I'd share what I'm doing to keep mini "going", since wife likes it (I really do too). Going against financial logic and better judgment (to scrap the car). Decided rebuild, replace, renew, at considerable expense.
----
Issue that side-lined car:
Apparently, timing chain guide, or timing chain tensioner, or both "failed", causing engine to jump timing and allow exhaust vales to contact pistons and bend (ever so slightly).
Upon dropping oil pan, discovered that timing chain guides were in pieces and dip-stick was bent at 90deg angle.
----
Repair Job:
Remove head and replace all exhaust valves, clean intake valves
Remove all pistons and replace rings (oil control and compression)
Replace turbo (discovered waste gate had play and was not sealing)
Replace oil filter housing gaskets (might as well since there)
Already had a Detroit Tuned turbo oil supply line, so that was good.
Replace throttle (discovered it was damaged/malfunctioning)
Replace Turbo inlet hose (it was literally coming apart)
Replace spark plugs and all ignition coils
Replace vacuum pump (it appeared to be still good, but 9 years old and 134K miles, why not)
Got it all put back together, drove 300miles and car ran like new. *Then* stuttered like I had a bad tank of gas. My ScanguageII I have hooked up to ODBC port is showing mis-fire on all cylinders. So, will be going back under the knife tomorrow to, most likely, have HPFP replaced, along with fuel filter. This will be first time having HPFP replaced, so I cannot really complain, but when it rains, it pours!
wm
Though I'd share what I'm doing to keep mini "going", since wife likes it (I really do too). Going against financial logic and better judgment (to scrap the car). Decided rebuild, replace, renew, at considerable expense.
----
Issue that side-lined car:
Apparently, timing chain guide, or timing chain tensioner, or both "failed", causing engine to jump timing and allow exhaust vales to contact pistons and bend (ever so slightly).
Upon dropping oil pan, discovered that timing chain guides were in pieces and dip-stick was bent at 90deg angle.
----
Repair Job:
Remove head and replace all exhaust valves, clean intake valves
Remove all pistons and replace rings (oil control and compression)
Replace turbo (discovered waste gate had play and was not sealing)
Replace oil filter housing gaskets (might as well since there)
Already had a Detroit Tuned turbo oil supply line, so that was good.
Replace throttle (discovered it was damaged/malfunctioning)
Replace Turbo inlet hose (it was literally coming apart)
Replace spark plugs and all ignition coils
Replace vacuum pump (it appeared to be still good, but 9 years old and 134K miles, why not)
Got it all put back together, drove 300miles and car ran like new. *Then* stuttered like I had a bad tank of gas. My ScanguageII I have hooked up to ODBC port is showing mis-fire on all cylinders. So, will be going back under the knife tomorrow to, most likely, have HPFP replaced, along with fuel filter. This will be first time having HPFP replaced, so I cannot really complain, but when it rains, it pours!
wm
But since I was that deep into it, I've pulled out all the other pistons as well and have new rings on the 3 good 'uns and I'm on the hunt for a 4th as we speak. Couple quick questions if you have a minute....
Did you replace the bearings on the connecting rods? mine seem OK and I've labeled them to get them back the way they came out.
Did you hone the cylinders before replacing the rings? If so, did you pull the oil spray nozzles at the base of the cylinder? They seem to be in the way. Did you do anything to protect the crank either from debris or the hone?
Thanks for this and any other advice you could provide a fellow traveller....
#4
#5
Update, saga continues...
Well, seems like we're chasing a fuel related ghost, total PIA. Diagnostic is showing that rail fuel pressure is too high (go figure...). We replaced the HPFP because it was original with 134K miles and I had one. But, it appears this was not the issue. System is showing high rail fuel pressure, with engine off. When in-tank fuel pump energizes, fuel pressure is too high. There is a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel filter housing (passenger-side of tank), so replaced entire fuel-filter housing since pressure regulator is in the housing. Still showing high rail fuel pressure.
So, to troubleshoot: We then disabled in-tank fuel pump, unplugged electrical connector on HPFP, disconnected HPFP from fuel rail and cranked engine. No fuel in fuel rail and system still showing high rail fuel pressure. So now, we're thinking faulty fuel pressure sensor, even though system does not show it's bad. We disconnected connector for fuel-pressure sensor, cranked engine, and system is finally showing 0 fuel rail pressure. So, we're now trying to source a replacement fuel pressure sensor, which is difficult, because most parts sources have it bundled with fuel rail.
----
To answer a few questions that were posted:
1) No, we did not replace any bearings (my tech said they were all good). I guess a testament to 5K mile oil change intervals...
2) Yes, cylinders were honed when pistons were out, but I don't have details of how it was done. I'll ask my tech when I see him later and post back.
wm
Well, seems like we're chasing a fuel related ghost, total PIA. Diagnostic is showing that rail fuel pressure is too high (go figure...). We replaced the HPFP because it was original with 134K miles and I had one. But, it appears this was not the issue. System is showing high rail fuel pressure, with engine off. When in-tank fuel pump energizes, fuel pressure is too high. There is a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel filter housing (passenger-side of tank), so replaced entire fuel-filter housing since pressure regulator is in the housing. Still showing high rail fuel pressure.
So, to troubleshoot: We then disabled in-tank fuel pump, unplugged electrical connector on HPFP, disconnected HPFP from fuel rail and cranked engine. No fuel in fuel rail and system still showing high rail fuel pressure. So now, we're thinking faulty fuel pressure sensor, even though system does not show it's bad. We disconnected connector for fuel-pressure sensor, cranked engine, and system is finally showing 0 fuel rail pressure. So, we're now trying to source a replacement fuel pressure sensor, which is difficult, because most parts sources have it bundled with fuel rail.
----
To answer a few questions that were posted:
1) No, we did not replace any bearings (my tech said they were all good). I guess a testament to 5K mile oil change intervals...
2) Yes, cylinders were honed when pistons were out, but I don't have details of how it was done. I'll ask my tech when I see him later and post back.
wm
#6
Did you hone the cylinders before replacing the rings? If so, did you pull the oil spray nozzles at the base of the cylinder? They seem to be in the way. Did you do anything to protect the crank either from debris or the hone?
Thanks for this and any other advice you could provide a fellow traveller....
Thanks for this and any other advice you could provide a fellow traveller....
#7
Final Update
Well, got car running normal again (total pia). Definitely confirmed fuel pressure sensor on fuel rail was sending erroneous data. The biggest pain of all, is that no one in US sells the fuel pressure sensor by itself, they want to charge your $400+ for entire fuel rail with sensor. Thinking 'out of the box', I actually had a friend in UK who was returning to US, go to a Peugeot dealer and heaven behold, they had the fuel pressure sensor part number listed separately for 48GPB. Had friend bring back part in carry on luggage. Ended up replacing vanos solenoid also, but car seems to be back to it's Mini normal self. We'll see how long it lasts...
wm
Well, got car running normal again (total pia). Definitely confirmed fuel pressure sensor on fuel rail was sending erroneous data. The biggest pain of all, is that no one in US sells the fuel pressure sensor by itself, they want to charge your $400+ for entire fuel rail with sensor. Thinking 'out of the box', I actually had a friend in UK who was returning to US, go to a Peugeot dealer and heaven behold, they had the fuel pressure sensor part number listed separately for 48GPB. Had friend bring back part in carry on luggage. Ended up replacing vanos solenoid also, but car seems to be back to it's Mini normal self. We'll see how long it lasts...
wm
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