Hi all.

I just bought a 2008 Mini hatchback. My wife always wanted one, but every time she goes off to buy a car she comes home with an SUV. I love to tinker on cars, so I made her a deal that I would buy an older Mini and it could become my Tinker car. So here we go a tinkering. Lots of stuff to work on -- it came to me with a failed inspection sticker due to strut tower bearings and brakes. Also the TPM light is on. So I need some advice to get started on this. Sorry for peppering you with questions, but sometimes when you get started there are way more questions than answers. Also, new to this forum, so apologies if I am asking obvious questions.

1) The car has had a John Cooper upgrade put on it at the dealer. It included John Cooper brakes. My question -- do those use the same rotors and pads as a non John Cooper car or do I need to look specifically for a John Cooper specific rotor and Pad
2) It needs the strut tower bearing. Should I change the strut while there -- what do people think of buying the full strut, bearing, spring assembly. They seem reasonably priced. Are there some to stay away from .
3) Anything else I should change just cause I am there? Ball joint, speed sensor, etc
4) The TPM light is on. The previous owner said that since he changed the wheels, the TPM would no longer work correctly -- that doesnt make sense to me. Is there something unique about the MINI that makes the TPM specific to the wheels or should I just go to a tire place and have them look at it?


Thanks everyone. I will keep you all updated in my quest to get this inspected and a nice little runner.

 

 

Read the topics in the Gen2 FAQ and then spend a few days reading the forums. You'll find answers to all your questions.

For the TPMS - either the PO didn't install TPMS sensors on the new wheels, or he didn't install the correct sensors, or the ones that are in there have dead batteries and need to be replaced. Unfortunately it is hard to tell without pulling a wheel and removing the tire then removing the sensor, unless the valve stem is rubber - that means no TPMS sensor.

 

Like Big Boost said, if your going that far, and you have the cash just replace them. If your turbo oil line is leaking make sure you replace it with the detroit tuned kit including the oil filter/cooler/housing gasket. Also if your in to some performance enhancements if your going to do the struts lowering springs make the car handle better, and give it a more aggressive stance but you sacrifice ride quality, also a bigger rear sway bar in the rear makes a big difference. If your turbo oil feed line is leaking and your in there you could also throw a performance down pipe at it, I just installed a CNT downpipe with 100 cell metallic cat in mine so there are no bad exhaust fumes, a bigger intercooler, and replace the factory charge pipes with mufflers/sound enhancers, free flow exhaust, tune it and your off to the races, literally!!! Lots of info in the forum and on youtube. You can get a good deal on most of the parts I listed Have fun, just make sure you maintain it or it will cost you

 

Welcome and congrats.
There are two JCW brake kits for the 08 MINI which is an R56 if you didn't know. Best to post pics of your brakes and we can help you get the right parts.

for the front strut mounts just get the new mounts as the shocks are pretty good and you'll just be spending extra for nothing. Or you can just get some Koni shocks. We keep both in stock.

The TPMS if the sensors are gone you need to have the car coded to remove the TPMS and that will solve the issue.

 

I keep reading all the posts, but for a newbie, there is a lot of info to sort through. Thanks for your patience

Thanks -- After I get through all the mechanical things I want to work on I will bring it to a tire guy to have it fixed.

 

So one of the things I didn't mention is the Control arm bushing. I thought -- whatever -- its just a bushing. Well to my surprise -- WHO designs a car that you have to split in two to replace a bushing. No matter, I bought the car to tinker. So over thanksgiving me and my sons will drop the suspension rack. Replace the bushings, and while I am there, Ball joints, sway bar bushings. That should be good for the next 100k miles.

I am sure this has been discussed ad nauseam and I just haven't gotten to the proper post yet, but should I replace the bushings with stock replacements or poly. This is just a weekend cruiser for us -- no track days in my future, but I would only like to do it once for the next 100k miles. But I also don't want to make the ride harsher (for now)

I have watched all the you tube videos I could find. seems straight forward enough. Any hints or warnings.

 

I will put the turbo oil line on the list. Not interested in performance right now, just a weekend car for us, but I admit that my wife says I drive it like a fool. It begs you to!!!

 

I went through replacing the front control arm bushings - what a royal PITA. There's a thread about it somewhere. I tried the "lower the front subframe and press out the control arm" method, it worked but in hindsight it would have been easier to just drop the subframe completely. I highly recommend you do the Powerflex poly bushings, you'll never have to do it again. While you're at it, replace the front sway bar bushings with Powerflex too since they sit on top of the control arm bushing holder and are secured with the same bolt. Way Motor Works has Powerflex poly bushings pre-pressed into the metal holder, makes the job quicker and easier.

 

Thanks for the suggestions -- I got poly bushings on the way. I plan to remove the subframe totally and change all wearable parts. I will take some pictures and let everyone know how it goes.

 

Trust me if your in as far as the turbo line and oil filter housing gasket its only $300.00 for the CNT catted down pipe, makes a big difference as far as the turbo spool and it doesn't stink like a non catted pipe, keeps the wife happy!!! Happy wife, Happy life, LOL