I am so over the engineering on these cars. It seems like every time I go to do a basic repair job, my '11 Hardtop fights me the entire time. Brakes? 2 days. Suspension? Don't know, I'm not finished yet. After finally getting an incomplete order fixed (a month later) from an unnamed forum sponsor, I started doing some suspension work this weekend. I've had the car since December, and apparently the previous owner wasn't big on routine maintenance. I fixed the worn out pads and rotors, but noticed that I had some pretty bad cupping on the rear tires. I took it in for an alignment and diagnostic check at a reputable Euro service shop in the area. They advised me to replace the struts, bump stops, etc. as they appeared to be worn out (at 60k miles). I ordered a set of Bilstein OEM type replacements (I know everyone recommends FSDs, but frankly it's a commuter car, and at this point I am so over it that I don't care). I figured while I was in there, I would do rear control arms as well, since that gets most of the moving parts on the rear that would affect alignment.

Started at the rear on Saturday. The struts weren't bad, but the subframe bolts on those control arms are something else! I'm not sure what good the cutout on the subframe is, when the fuel tank is just a couple of mm away! Finally got the rear done on Sunday night. No problemo, I thought. I'll get the front struts on Monday night, then off to the tire shop for new treads and and alignment. The car had other plans. I'm not sure which genius in Deutschland had the brilliant idea to design the front suspension in that manner, but it sucks! The how-to on Pelican Parts suggests unbolting the ball joint, but the wheel assembly flops around so much that it's nearly impossible to wrestle into place for assembly. I fought the wheel spindle assembly for over an hour, trying to get it to seat on the strut. I finally sanded the powdercoat slightly, and greased the snot out of it, which convinced it to mate up. I don't think that I should have needed to sand the powdercoating, but at 2am you just want to be finished. 4 hours in the garage last night, and I got one strut assembly installed. Had to call the shop this morning and reschedule tire installation and alignment for (hopefully) tomorrow...

That's the background, now here's the questions: Does anyone have any tips and tricks that you've found make front strut installation go a bit smoother? I think I figured out a few last night, but I'm curious to see what others have done. Is it necessary to unbolt the ball joint, or can I manage it without?

Thanks for any assistance. I wouldn't be asking, but I had literally zero inquiries when it was for sale for 2 months, and my wife says I can't light it on fire. Worst automotive decision ever.

-Chris

 

On my Gen1 the big thing was to make sure the ball joint is moving freely and that the strut pinch bolt is loose, the spindle pushed open a little and the strut has been sprayed. If everything is moving freely the ball joint bolt does not need to be taken off for the strut to slide out.

 

 

Need to have the spindle propped up so that when you try spreading, I use a small pinch bar or a dulled larger screw driver that I can wack. Would think the torque settings are the same for the Gen1 and 2.

 

Thanks, Walnuts. I will give it a shot tonight when I get back on it. Hoping to get into bed before 2am tonight. Work is a little rough today!

 

Working off of jack stands sucks. Working on your back sucks even more. Working without the correct tools sucks big time more.

There is also the learning curve and on a MINI that curve has a very large radius.

 

That's for sure! I've been working on my own junk for about 20 years (including several Volvos, a Mercedes, trucks, Dodge Magnum, 1965 Nova, 1964 Chevy C10, a Honda and more), and this is the steepest learning curve I've ever encountered. I think that the timing belt on our old Volvo S60 was easier than the suspension on my Mini. You are right about working from stands/on your back. The older I get (I'm only 36) the worse it sucks! A nice shop with a lift is on the agenda, but I haven't quite gotten there yet. I'm also guessing that Mini has a ton of specialty tools, that I just don't have access to. I'm pretty well equipped, and generally have any tool I need, but man! I think I need to make friends with a little person, just so I can borrow their hands to reach into some of the places on this car (connectors for the brake pad wear sensors!).

 

You had trouble seating the strut into the hub? Mine was a little stuck, so I just put a jack under the hub assembly and lifted the car and wiggled the strut around till it popped on. Make sure the little tab on the strut is aligned with the slot or it will stop on that. Not sure if gen 2 is the same, but I have a gen 1.

To remove it, I sprayed a penetrating lube around the strut the night before and mine came right off. Not sure if they were stuck to start with or not. I only have 50k miles, but my struts had also failed.

BTW a spring compressor helped a lot. I didnt need it when I put the megans ON, but I needed it for getting the OEM assemblies off and the FSD's on which were stock height.

 

 

On my 2011 MCS when replacing front struts, I unbolted the front lower ball joints from the arms. 2 bolts per side. Made things much easier.

 

 

You can spread the joint with a chisel/screwdriver and a few whacks of a hammer. I saw modmini do it.

 

I have had my struts off and on enough times that it is no big deal. The hardest part is getting the strut top plate bolts to line up.

 

sounds like you needed one of these: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...-tool/scw3435/

 

 

Hmmm does this mean it is now your baby again and not a devil . . . . . . .

 

Negative, Ghostrider. I still despise this car more than any other I have ever owned (16 to date). I bought it in December, because I thought it would be a "fun" commuter car. It is reasonably fun to drive, and the 6 speed is nice, but the suspension is not really tuned toward a highway commute (yes, I am aware that I just gave up an opportunity to correct that... I don't love it enough to put the extra money into it). It's a pain the the rear to do any work on, the "acceptable" oil consumption is stupid, and I have to rearrange my briefcase and few other items I bring to work, just to fit a couple of large pizza boxes on the way home from the office. I realized 2 weeks into a new job (with a 100 mile round trip commute) what a mistake I had made. The car was up for sale for 2 months, at a fair price - but not giving it away, and I had zero inquiries that weren't the typical, I'll send you a check and have my shipper pick it up BS that we have all dealt with. I've owned 6 other European cars (no BMWs), so I am accustomed to the parts prices, but this is next level. Even shopping around, things are stupid expensive, and I hold on to my wallet any time I drive by the Mini dealer in Winston Salem, for fear that the money will just fly out the window! The way I see it, I'm stuck with it for a while, so I'll do the maintenance as it is needed, fix whatever breaks, and drive it like I stole it. At least the last part can be fun on occasion. Again, thanks for all the input on this thread, I found many of the tips to be helpful.

BTW - I'll add my own tip in here. If you have gotten the wheel hub to slip over the strut, but find that the tab that goes into the slot has rotated a few mm to one side or another, a little love tap with a deadblow hammer will rotate the strut just enough to cause it to drop in. Next time I'm at a dealership, one of the questions will be, "Does it have upper control arms?"