R56 MCS Blown Computer Saga
#1
03-18-2018, 09:34 PM
R56 MCS Blown Computer Saga
prepare for wordiness - if you're not into that and a lot of detail, please bail, don't flame...
I am a Mini collector and Audi enthusiast - and have owned 7 Minis (R53's and R56's) and currently have 3:
2007 MCS R56
2009 R56 Base
2011 R56 JCW
I post this 'story' in the hopes the myriad of codes and symptoms will help others! My experience level is engine builder and Audi tuner, but little experience with Mini/BMW at the same level. Until now.
I purchased the JCW last year as a 'big milestone' birthday present for myself. It needed a few things (cracked valve) but is otherwise a low mileage solid performer - but missing one important feature: heated seats! Live in the high altitude desert, and really need those seats. (and this is not the JCW's story)
Cruising the auction sites, I found a 2007 R56 S - low miles, rear hit that just got the bumper and hatch, but it was a steal. Was listed as not running / parts, but turns out it ran! Just needed a timing tensioner and a timing adjustment. And most importantly - heated seats! Didnt know it at the time, but it was a 2 hour plane flight away (yeah, I know, D/A
) - should've paid attention to the auction city location! so I flew out to the mid west and drove it back, picked up a new bumper and hatch on the way, somewhere in Denver.
So.... fast forward a couple of weeks, I decided the car is waaaay too nice to part out for the seats, so I fixed the timing issue and figured I would keep it. Incredibly clean, no oil leaks, low miles, interior really looks new...
Here's where the fun started - in the process of pulling the valve cover to expose the timing issue, I apparently broke the DME (ECU) ground strap - the one that is attached to the stud / bolt in the front center of the valve cover. You've all seen it- under the long narrow plastic cover that protects the coil pack wiring. I started the car without that ground strap - and it ran like a dream... for 29 seconds. As I was reaching down to turn the car off, it stalled - but not sputtered, just stopped liked I had actually pressed the damn button.
I spent the next hour trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, why there was *no * OBD communications, why suddenly every module was giving error messages in the tach display - steering, traction control, Airbags, ABS, maybe a couple of others. Still, the car would crank, just not start. It wasnt until the next day and a fresh look I noticed the broken ground strap, which I resoldered and connected.
Now I noticed I was getting gas - yes, the pump had pressure - but no spark. Not knowing nearly enough about how incredibly fragile the DME is, I figured I had blown the coil packs - makes sense, no ground in the spot adjacent to the coil packs right? 4 new CP and still no spark.
OK so the experienced among you already know part of the story
dead DME - I mean really dead. I design embedded industrial systems, so I pulled the lid, and much to my chagrin, an Infineon processor. If you need something to work for a long time in a harsh environment, there are hundreds of choices for microcontrollers that will take a beating - Infineon is not among them.
My local Mini Dealership - parts department - is very good, also very competitive on price, but $1400 for the DME + 1 hour to program, and no guarantee whatsoever that my car would run. No returns. I turned to other sources, and found an article regarding a shadowy company on the left coast of Canada - RPM Motorsport. After reading some additional comments, and having several mini's I decided to purchase one of their used, reprogrammed units that did not require the CAS to be shipped, about $1k with a 1 year warranty and technical support.
Let me say that the staff of RPM has been great - you have to get over the shadowy visage they put out there, but I can attest they have resources at their disposal and definitely back up what they sell. I only have this one experience with them, and it has been overwhelmingly positive with only one hiccup between the holidays. Please be warned, however, as Zach (owner / manager / tech support / etc) warned me before taking any money - the DME is only part of the equation!!!!
After receiving my replacement DME which btw is part number 7601756, and plugging it in - instant OBD communications, and whoa - lotsa codes. Recap - car is cranking, but not starting. I have fuel pressure, and brand new coil packs and spark plugs by this point (OEM). Fresh oil change (full synth), fresh coolant change (BMW blue of course), new filter.
Here is the start of the error code festival:
0x2FD7 = EWS error, which as I learned will always be present since codes / serial numbers dont match with the CAS, and as you will see below, after RPM works their magic, doesnt matter a bit.
0x2FDF = Not sure about this one, chased my tail for awhile, accelerator pedal issue, was just a phantom code - mustve tried to start with the pedal on the floor.
0x2BD9 or something similar. Apologies, but I misplaced the very first set of codes. It was a bad fuel pressure sensor - and clearly needed to be fixed. Not too many options - purchase the entire fuel rail from ECS/Pelican/Mini, for around $400.
Purchase a chinesium unit from ebay... instead I found the OEM manufacturer in Guangzhou or somewhere close by on Ali and fixed that issue. Actually, I stole one off the JCW to troubleshoot, then swapped it out with the OEM unit and the sensor code went away.
In any event, no start, but the codes were interesting. Now since I have a JCW same chassis, I tried plugging this DME in - and voila, the JCW started right up with this DME!!! but not the '07 MCS.
So after fixing the fuel sensor, a new code popped up:
0x301E = Enable line - turned out to be a phantom code - referring to the MSA start / stop system. As it turned out, a mild problem from the RPM side, which they warranted and had fixed in less than a week. Wrong software version, and I lacked ISTA-P to fix myself.
Trip #2 for the DME, and now I have some new interesting codes, and still no start:
0x2FD7 - EWS error, we'll ignore that
0x2BC7 - internal error, no detail.
The RPM folks and myself worked through every sensor, had a sputter here and there, but no joy. At this point, I started pulling every one of the 7 sensors I could reach, placed in the JCW to ensure running. namely:
1) Fuel Sensor (already changed, and tried it again)
2) Cam position sensor
3) Coolant Temperature Sensor
4) MAF
5) Airflow/ air temp in the left charge pipe
6) Same as above, except in the intake manifold
7) Crank position sensor
Every single one ran the JCW fine - no issues stumbles etc. Tried the coil packs too for good measure. Again, with RPM's assistance, I traced every single DC feed into the DME, every fuse, and every line out to the sensors, and fuel injectors. No joy. Oscilloscope checking waveforms to FI, coil packs, checking voltages at every sensor. Same deal.
Recap - symptoms - cranks, no start. Every tenth crank, a little sputter, but no start. Error codes only 0x2Fd7 and 0x2BC7. Fuel in the cylinders. Compression 150's across the board +/-5 psi. No spark.
I left the car alone for about three weeks due to some crazy busy project @ work, and on a whim, started swapping sensors in from the JCW into the '07 S. Even though every sensor from the '07 worked in the JCW, I figured it was the one thing I had not tried. After 3 months of no starting, learning more about Mini wiring, plumbing, sensors, and programming than I ever wanted to know, the fourth sensor I tried, Cam position sensor, part 0232103064, and the car fired up!
Damn.
It seems the sensor was marginal and for whatever reason would not run in this version of the car - it must have been giving some pulses (and I saw them when using the scope) but not enough, or correct magnitude.
Mini 2, Me 1.
Now I have a problem in the DME driver not running one fuel injector. Because of the issues I had, I first assumed (and RPM agreed) that the injector likely was damaged:
0x2D74 = High pressure fuel injector 1, lowside activation. The injector has positive voltage, but the DME is not activating ground. There is a current sensor resistor in the DME box, so I assume the MOSFET is blown out - likely due to my various other sensor errors and swaps. In any event, RPM warranted the repair, and I hope to post the final chapter in this long saga, and actually drive the damn car.
O, not really pertinent to the major part of the story, but INPA also gave me an airbag error - it was the seatbelt tensioner on the driver's side. No airbags fired on this car, but the rear end hit caused the driver's tensioner to fire and needed replacing. Once that unit was replaced, the airbag warning light went away.
This was my first paint job in awhile, but it came out pdg. And I still need to replace the front bushings, but otherwise this will be a great car!
I am a Mini collector and Audi enthusiast - and have owned 7 Minis (R53's and R56's) and currently have 3:
2007 MCS R56
2009 R56 Base
2011 R56 JCW
I post this 'story' in the hopes the myriad of codes and symptoms will help others! My experience level is engine builder and Audi tuner, but little experience with Mini/BMW at the same level. Until now.
I purchased the JCW last year as a 'big milestone' birthday present for myself. It needed a few things (cracked valve) but is otherwise a low mileage solid performer - but missing one important feature: heated seats! Live in the high altitude desert, and really need those seats. (and this is not the JCW's story)
Cruising the auction sites, I found a 2007 R56 S - low miles, rear hit that just got the bumper and hatch, but it was a steal. Was listed as not running / parts, but turns out it ran! Just needed a timing tensioner and a timing adjustment. And most importantly - heated seats! Didnt know it at the time, but it was a 2 hour plane flight away (yeah, I know, D/A
) - should've paid attention to the auction city location! so I flew out to the mid west and drove it back, picked up a new bumper and hatch on the way, somewhere in Denver.So.... fast forward a couple of weeks, I decided the car is waaaay too nice to part out for the seats, so I fixed the timing issue and figured I would keep it. Incredibly clean, no oil leaks, low miles, interior really looks new...
Here's where the fun started - in the process of pulling the valve cover to expose the timing issue, I apparently broke the DME (ECU) ground strap - the one that is attached to the stud / bolt in the front center of the valve cover. You've all seen it- under the long narrow plastic cover that protects the coil pack wiring. I started the car without that ground strap - and it ran like a dream... for 29 seconds. As I was reaching down to turn the car off, it stalled - but not sputtered, just stopped liked I had actually pressed the damn button.
I spent the next hour trying to figure out why it wouldn't start, why there was *no * OBD communications, why suddenly every module was giving error messages in the tach display - steering, traction control, Airbags, ABS, maybe a couple of others. Still, the car would crank, just not start. It wasnt until the next day and a fresh look I noticed the broken ground strap, which I resoldered and connected.
Now I noticed I was getting gas - yes, the pump had pressure - but no spark. Not knowing nearly enough about how incredibly fragile the DME is, I figured I had blown the coil packs - makes sense, no ground in the spot adjacent to the coil packs right? 4 new CP and still no spark.
OK so the experienced among you already know part of the story
dead DME - I mean really dead. I design embedded industrial systems, so I pulled the lid, and much to my chagrin, an Infineon processor. If you need something to work for a long time in a harsh environment, there are hundreds of choices for microcontrollers that will take a beating - Infineon is not among them. My local Mini Dealership - parts department - is very good, also very competitive on price, but $1400 for the DME + 1 hour to program, and no guarantee whatsoever that my car would run. No returns. I turned to other sources, and found an article regarding a shadowy company on the left coast of Canada - RPM Motorsport. After reading some additional comments, and having several mini's I decided to purchase one of their used, reprogrammed units that did not require the CAS to be shipped, about $1k with a 1 year warranty and technical support.
Let me say that the staff of RPM has been great - you have to get over the shadowy visage they put out there, but I can attest they have resources at their disposal and definitely back up what they sell. I only have this one experience with them, and it has been overwhelmingly positive with only one hiccup between the holidays. Please be warned, however, as Zach (owner / manager / tech support / etc) warned me before taking any money - the DME is only part of the equation!!!!
After receiving my replacement DME which btw is part number 7601756, and plugging it in - instant OBD communications, and whoa - lotsa codes. Recap - car is cranking, but not starting. I have fuel pressure, and brand new coil packs and spark plugs by this point (OEM). Fresh oil change (full synth), fresh coolant change (BMW blue of course), new filter.
Here is the start of the error code festival:
0x2FD7 = EWS error, which as I learned will always be present since codes / serial numbers dont match with the CAS, and as you will see below, after RPM works their magic, doesnt matter a bit.
0x2FDF = Not sure about this one, chased my tail for awhile, accelerator pedal issue, was just a phantom code - mustve tried to start with the pedal on the floor.
0x2BD9 or something similar. Apologies, but I misplaced the very first set of codes. It was a bad fuel pressure sensor - and clearly needed to be fixed. Not too many options - purchase the entire fuel rail from ECS/Pelican/Mini, for around $400.
Purchase a chinesium unit from ebay... instead I found the OEM manufacturer in Guangzhou or somewhere close by on Ali and fixed that issue. Actually, I stole one off the JCW to troubleshoot, then swapped it out with the OEM unit and the sensor code went away.In any event, no start, but the codes were interesting. Now since I have a JCW same chassis, I tried plugging this DME in - and voila, the JCW started right up with this DME!!! but not the '07 MCS.
So after fixing the fuel sensor, a new code popped up:
0x301E = Enable line - turned out to be a phantom code - referring to the MSA start / stop system. As it turned out, a mild problem from the RPM side, which they warranted and had fixed in less than a week. Wrong software version, and I lacked ISTA-P to fix myself.
Trip #2 for the DME, and now I have some new interesting codes, and still no start:
0x2FD7 - EWS error, we'll ignore that
0x2BC7 - internal error, no detail.
The RPM folks and myself worked through every sensor, had a sputter here and there, but no joy. At this point, I started pulling every one of the 7 sensors I could reach, placed in the JCW to ensure running. namely:
1) Fuel Sensor (already changed, and tried it again)
2) Cam position sensor
3) Coolant Temperature Sensor
4) MAF
5) Airflow/ air temp in the left charge pipe
6) Same as above, except in the intake manifold
7) Crank position sensor
Every single one ran the JCW fine - no issues stumbles etc. Tried the coil packs too for good measure. Again, with RPM's assistance, I traced every single DC feed into the DME, every fuse, and every line out to the sensors, and fuel injectors. No joy. Oscilloscope checking waveforms to FI, coil packs, checking voltages at every sensor. Same deal.
Recap - symptoms - cranks, no start. Every tenth crank, a little sputter, but no start. Error codes only 0x2Fd7 and 0x2BC7. Fuel in the cylinders. Compression 150's across the board +/-5 psi. No spark.
I left the car alone for about three weeks due to some crazy busy project @ work, and on a whim, started swapping sensors in from the JCW into the '07 S. Even though every sensor from the '07 worked in the JCW, I figured it was the one thing I had not tried. After 3 months of no starting, learning more about Mini wiring, plumbing, sensors, and programming than I ever wanted to know, the fourth sensor I tried, Cam position sensor, part 0232103064, and the car fired up!
Damn.
It seems the sensor was marginal and for whatever reason would not run in this version of the car - it must have been giving some pulses (and I saw them when using the scope) but not enough, or correct magnitude.
Mini 2, Me 1.
Now I have a problem in the DME driver not running one fuel injector. Because of the issues I had, I first assumed (and RPM agreed) that the injector likely was damaged:
0x2D74 = High pressure fuel injector 1, lowside activation. The injector has positive voltage, but the DME is not activating ground. There is a current sensor resistor in the DME box, so I assume the MOSFET is blown out - likely due to my various other sensor errors and swaps. In any event, RPM warranted the repair, and I hope to post the final chapter in this long saga, and actually drive the damn car.
O, not really pertinent to the major part of the story, but INPA also gave me an airbag error - it was the seatbelt tensioner on the driver's side. No airbags fired on this car, but the rear end hit caused the driver's tensioner to fire and needed replacing. Once that unit was replaced, the airbag warning light went away.
This was my first paint job in awhile, but it came out pdg. And I still need to replace the front bushings, but otherwise this will be a great car!
#3
03-19-2018, 06:49 AM
I had a '11 Countryman https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...flooded-2.html and it was painful fun to work on...it might've had the same phenomena but i was still novice. it was a success after that to the point i started recovering flooded minis 
#6
03-19-2018, 09:08 AM
I looked at a bunch of companies that performed this service - however- you have to be able to talk to your DME - mine was * utterly * completely * positively * dead, so no way they would have done much with it.
I would also like to point out that I estimate my cost at the dealership would have been ~$1550 for the DME + flash, likely another 5 hours of shop time performing diagnostics, another $375 for sensors, $550 for coil packs, $450 fuel rail / pressure sensor combo, gaskets, and additional labor - figure around $3.5k - $4k realistically.
In total, I spent $1450 for RPM/DME, Coil packs (4), Fuel Pressure Sensor, Camshaft Pos sensor, Fuel Injector + seals, Gaskets to fix the issue. Much more better!!
I would also like to point out that I estimate my cost at the dealership would have been ~$1550 for the DME + flash, likely another 5 hours of shop time performing diagnostics, another $375 for sensors, $550 for coil packs, $450 fuel rail / pressure sensor combo, gaskets, and additional labor - figure around $3.5k - $4k realistically.
In total, I spent $1450 for RPM/DME, Coil packs (4), Fuel Pressure Sensor, Camshaft Pos sensor, Fuel Injector + seals, Gaskets to fix the issue. Much more better!!
#7
03-19-2018, 09:16 AM
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