Looking at getting a mini for a daily driver. Checked the gen3's but honestly the front is kinda ugly with the duck bill looking bumper. Plus the colors are mostly meh. I did some searches on the N18, but there wasn't a lot of real current info out there. Just wondering how they are holding up compared to the N14 horror stories. I currently have a R52 S JCW, but that's a toy for the weekend twisties. So I am familiar with the pros and cons of ownership. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks, Jim

 

You should get more than a few responses on that question. I am in no way looking for either a Gen2 or 3, but on the Gen2 would only look at something with a N18.

Yes the F series has a front that some say looks like a fish, but if somebody wants to give me their JCW for free, I will not turn it down. My address is . . . . . .

 

The gen 3 hate thing is obnoxious.

I'll hold my N18 thoughts close to myself.

 

Spill those N18 beans moocher! heh heh

On the gen3, the blah colors are more of a negative than the front end. Bring liquid yellow back!

 

Almost 6 years and 70K miles on my R56S with the N18. A couple of issues taken care of under warranty, otherwise just routine maintenance and a bunch of mods.

There's a topic in the Gen2 FAQs about N14 maintenance issues.

 

85K miles on my 2/2011 production MCS. So far, no big issues that were not covered by either the remainder of the factory warranty or my Hendricks aftermarket warranty. Just regular maintenance, mods and tires. Lots of tires.....

Just had the clutch and dual mass flywheel replace at 84k by a local independent BMW/MINI shop. (I run my MINI pretty hard.) Had them do everything in there, to include rear main engine seal, front trans seal, clutch fork, ball, and sleeve. About $2,000.00 parts and labor, using all MINI parts and a Sach's dual mass flywheel.

 

'12 MCS, about 60k miles. Replaced VANOS solenoid under original warranty, water pump was recently replaced under Mini extended warranty on that part. Over than that, the usual maintenance (tires, battery, brakes, etc).

 

60 k miles on my N18. No major issues. I do about 10 track days a year and autocross it, so it has been well tested.

 

2 -2012 MCS's one with build date pre 03/2012(61,000k) one with after (79,000k). Both had thermostat housing and associated wiring changed under warranty early on. 03/2012 is now waiting for a new high pressure fuel pump. It has a Continental the post 03/12 has a Bosch. All else perfect. Looked at the intake valves at 60,000 and just a hint of carbon, really almost one so definitely not the issues as the N14.

 

'14 Countryman ALL4 101k. 85k thermostat, 89k both front door actuators and turbo/oil line. 98k Exhaust VANOS and timing chain. Warranty is done so nothing else will break dammit!

'11 Clubman S N18 35k. 10k oil solenoid wire fix, 32k oil solenoid and pressure sensor (oil light cam on no idea why so replaced both). Blast to drive!

 

Find it for the right price I would go for the n18.

 

Excellent info and thanks to all! Test rode a F56 and have to say they are growing on me. Though the prices of the N18's are much friendlier.

 

Ya, the problems with the N14s really dropped the resale value of the Gen II MINIs like a rock, which make the N18s a good deal.

 

2014 JCW Coupe. 38k not one problem. 2007 MCS only HPFP went out around 2009. The F56 is a really nice car. The 3G Countryman and the Clubman weigh like 3500 lbs though, they are wagons IMO.

 

2013 N18 @ 65K . Thermostat was replaced under warranty but no other issues.

Its been very reliable considering its tuned to 23lbs of boost and has taken quite the beating at track days...

 

Found a 2011 with 77k miles and a clean carfax for $7500... in spice orange. Thinking hard about it.

 

Miles are about right. Not sure on the price. When I looked at selling our 2012 (60k miles), showed around $5-6 trade in, $7-8 selling to private buyer. Our 2012 has a bunch of premium options (auto, glass roof, HK radio, etc).

 

No premiums. Not a fan of the sunroof nor of an automatic. So it's pretty much a base S. That blasted sunroof makes slicktop mini's hard to find used.

 

I love the sunroof in our ‘04, but something changed with the Gen II MINIs and the sunroof in my ‘07 was noisy in comparison and didn’t get used much. My 2012 doesn’t have one as a result.

 

The N18 addresses many of the problems the N14 had, but not all of them...and not completely. All things being equal, an N18 is better. However, I'm willing to put up with the N14 foibles, and am planning on keeping my '09 Clubby indefinitely. There are many, MANY horror stories about N14's....seems as if a significant proportion of them involve owners who were not attentive to their cars....understandable because N14's do require more attention than typical cars. N14's can be a good fit for someone who enjoys their car, and esp for someone who can do some of their own work. The latter path is deeply supported by the owner network on this forum and other sources... This makes the N14 a viable option for someone who wants a fun car with an outrageous social network, heritage, and with some mechanical skills and interest, but not a lot of capital for the initial purchase ("sweat equity"). I agree the N14 isn't for everyone, and that the N18 is a better choice for most people.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...14-vs-n18.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...14-vs-n18.html

https://new.minimania.com/MINI_Coope...son_N14_vs_N18

Tigger2011:
To the OP. Yes the N18 still suffers from carbon buildup but to a lesser extent than the N14. My second Cooper S was an N18 and I walnut blasted the intake valves at 49,000 miles...and they did need it. Most of the coking on direct injected engines is caused by exhaust valve overlap. This is when the intake valve is opening but the exhaust valve has not completely closed yet. The heavy backpressure cause by the turbo causes exhaust to actually be pushed back into the intake tract for a moment before the intake charges momentum forces it back. With a vanos unit on the exhaust cam in the N18 the ECU can make some changes to reduce coking but not eliminate it.

 

+1 to what bugeye said.
Taking care of any car is a must to keep from having problems with it.
My 2007 S was relatively problem free after several issues were resolved early on and this car was run on the track.

IMHO the number ONE thing to do to keep any Gen II engine (N14 or N18) running is to keep the oil topped off, full, right up to the top line on the dipstick; don’t let it get to the low line. That turbo cooks the oil; the more in the oil pan the better. The second is to change the oil at 6k; don’t go by the MINI/BMW wizard who will tell you that your oil is good for 10, 15, 20k miles (as was the case on our ‘04). Third, don’t ignore changes in the way the engine sounds or runs. If there is a change, like the radiator fan is now running all the time and it wasn’t before, get it fixed (my radiator fan running all the time was caused by the aux water pump that cools the turbo having failed).

Lastly, enjoy the car. Have fun with it. They like that.