Suspension Diy rear camber arms!
#1
Diy rear camber arms!
Well Im going to have some fun and try and make a set of rear camber arms! The site has all the parts needed. Parts are either forged steel or stainless ends and aluminum center shafts. Just have to figure out what length shaft I should go with. Stock arms are like 21.5 inches from bolt to bolt. I want to be able to get a little more negative camber to fit my wheels right so I'm not sure what length shaft to get, any thoughts?
#2
Well Im going to have some fun and try and make a set of rear camber arms! The site has all the parts needed. Parts are either forged steel or stainless ends and aluminum center shafts. Just have to figure out what length shaft I should go with. Stock arms are like 21.5 inches from bolt to bolt. I want to be able to get a little more negative camber to fit my wheels right so I'm not sure what length shaft to get, any thoughts?
#3
Negative on that. Once you add the tie rod ends it will be way too long.
Ideally you want them to be 21.5" nearly at the end of the stroke so you have maximum adjustment from there. Try and find tech drawings for the rod ends, you will usually be able to work out the relevant things you need from the drawing.
From there you want the distance from the centre of the hole in the rod end to the end of the thread closest to the ball end + the width of your jam nuts (this will give you how much will stick out when they are screwed all the way in). 21.5" minus double this distance will give you the approximate length you will need to buy of the inner piece. IIRC, longer arms will give you more camber so get the next smallest size so you can get back to standard if you ever want to.
James
Ideally you want them to be 21.5" nearly at the end of the stroke so you have maximum adjustment from there. Try and find tech drawings for the rod ends, you will usually be able to work out the relevant things you need from the drawing.
From there you want the distance from the centre of the hole in the rod end to the end of the thread closest to the ball end + the width of your jam nuts (this will give you how much will stick out when they are screwed all the way in). 21.5" minus double this distance will give you the approximate length you will need to buy of the inner piece. IIRC, longer arms will give you more camber so get the next smallest size so you can get back to standard if you ever want to.
James
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Thought I had replied to this over the weekend but I must have failed to click submit.
I went on an archeological expedition in the garage and dug out the stock rear control arms. Hole center to hole center is approximately 21 inches, so it sounds like you want 18" shafts.
I went on an archeological expedition in the garage and dug out the stock rear control arms. Hole center to hole center is approximately 21 inches, so it sounds like you want 18" shafts.
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I can get 3/4 inch. But I found out that alta control arms are made with 5/8 threaded rod ends. The aluminum is the same, made from 6061. So I'm guessing it should be fine but it could also not work at all but for $96 bucks including shipping for 2 rear control arms I figured it is worth a shot.
#13
If you didn't want aluminum you can get steel, you can even get chromoly Center shafts if you wanted. Just figured that the aluminum should be just fine, since that's what is used by the name brands.
#15
The R56 rear suspension uses 4 control arms, top left/right and bottom left/right Top and bottom have different part numbers, but left/right are identical for top and for the bottom. See the parts diagram at realoem.com.
There are special adjusters on the L and R sides that attach the control arms to the trailing arm that holds the hub. These can get you to probably close to -2 degrees camber. To get any more you need the adjustable control arms, to increase negative camber they have to be adjusted longer than stock so the bottom of the hub moves outward.
There are special adjusters on the L and R sides that attach the control arms to the trailing arm that holds the hub. These can get you to probably close to -2 degrees camber. To get any more you need the adjustable control arms, to increase negative camber they have to be adjusted longer than stock so the bottom of the hub moves outward.
#16
Well got the parts today and very first impression is, great! Everything seems to be solid and nothing stands out to be an issue. I went with a 17 inch center shaft. With the ends threaded Into the center shaft and measured out to the same length as the stock ones, There is 3/4 of an inch threaded Into the center shaft. I feel that is more than enough to be "safe" if you want more, then go with the 18 inch bar. But once you start getting more positive camber more will be threaded in. Overall first impression is a good one! Just have to install them and get an alignment and just drive on them and see how they last. But for 83 bucks in materials I'm willing to give it a shot. Also I went with forged steel ends that are zinc plated. You can go with polished stainless ends if you want it to look better. But since it's under the car I did not care.
Last edited by Scooter24; 04-28-2017 at 11:40 AM.
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probably not. I'm all for buying from vendors, and for a lot of stuff I do. I am a college student who does what he can with the money he has and if I can save some money and get the same reliable parts I'm going to do it.
#21
I have to say, those turned out looking pretty nice!
How long are the threads on the rod ends? For a 3/4" bolt thread, you want AT LEAST 3/4" engagement into the rod. That should be your maximum arm length. That being said, if your maximum arm length is slightly longer than the stock arm, should be golden. If you lower the car, rear suspension goes negative anyway, and you'll be shortening the bar to dial it back in.
How long are the threads on the rod ends? For a 3/4" bolt thread, you want AT LEAST 3/4" engagement into the rod. That should be your maximum arm length. That being said, if your maximum arm length is slightly longer than the stock arm, should be golden. If you lower the car, rear suspension goes negative anyway, and you'll be shortening the bar to dial it back in.
#22
The threaded end of the end links are 1 7/8 of and inch. From the end to the center of the hole is 2 7/8 of an inch. I have 3/4 of an inch threaded in and that makes the bar the same lengh as the stock arm, so once I start getting more positive camber, bam, it'll be threaded in even more! I think this will work out just fine!
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