Some of us, if not the most, do not like just replacing parts when they fail. We want to know, at least me, WHY they failed!

So, the big question is, why do the N18 engine HPFP fail? what is about the design that makes it fail?

I tried using N14 solenoid and it did NOT work. I noticed the openings are bigger on the N14 HPFP solenoid.

I tried three pumps that my R60 does not like and i also have an N14 HPFP that i can spare for this experiment.

any thoughts?

 

Typical german reliability haha. Hopefully the Japanese manufacturers catch up quick with a well handling, 200hp turbo charged hatch for under $30k. Then all we'll have to do is change oil, brakes and tires ;-)

 

They make that. It's called a Honda Civic Sport. It's power to weight is very close to an R56 MCS, and with a tune it would be more.

To answer your question, OP. The early N18 HPFP is internally almost identical to the N14 HPFP. It wasn't until mid 2012 that they switched brands altogether and have a good HPFP on the car.

 

the N14 HPFP is solid. I never had an issue with the as mush as I hear about the N18 one. But again, what fails in it? is it mechanical, electrical, both and why?

 

That does look like the beginnings of a promising platform. They seem to be extracting quite a bit from the 1.5L engine. They need a 2 door (4 doors are for passengers) hatch with a slightly upgraded interior (for a civic, anyway), a quick shifting (or simulated) auto/cvt that can handle as much torque as our aisin unit for those that do a lot of city/stop and go driving. I'll stop thread jacking now. Happy motoring while your fuel pump is still pumping!

 

The Bosch HPFP is the one you want. And yes it is only on N18 engines built mid 2012+.

 

You're joking, right? The N14 HPFP is like one of the trademark issues with that engine. There's even an extended warranty on it just like the timing chain. Like I said the early N18 and N14 HPFPs are pretty much identical. The Bosch one on the later N18s is the bulletproof one.

 

I believe 3/2012 is the magic date. My engine was built......2/2012. Sales guy didn't tell me that (not like he could've known). The two pumps are not mechanically interchangeable in any shape or form. I believe even the ECU is different. Just save $1k every 30k miles and change it out, when the car backfires on cold start, in 15 minutes and keep on keeping on.

 

Yup the whole head is different and the ECU has different drivers. Learned that the hard way.

 

So....is there a way to frankenstein it if you are yanking the head anyway? I'm guessing the ECU sync with all the other computers in the car is the PITA part.

 

why did the original one fail. what were the flaws?

 

Nope. The Continental pump (N14, early N18) has a rectangular adapter to attach to the cam and the Bosch (late N18) has a triangular one. And the fuel lines are different. But even if you did change the whole head and adapted the fuel lines, the Continental pump is driven with voltage from the ECU and the Bosch pump is driven by PWM, so the physical drivers built into the ECU are different. So you need to swap out the whole ECU and wiring harness. Never got into investigation beyond that. When I replaced my motor, we reused the old head, put it on a 2013 block and called it a day.

 

Found this article:

http://www.underhoodservice.com/7-re...el-pumps-fail/

Seems it can be a combination of causes but this would be my guess:

6. Fuel Pump Pressure Solenoid

High-pressure fuel pumps use a solenoid to control the volume and pressure of the pump by changing the stroke and/or port location. When this solenoid fails, it will be in a low-pressure setting.

 

It also seems that Bosch and Continental are suppliers for BMW pumps and when a car comes with one brand that gives a ton of problems, BMW switching to the other seems to "fix" the problem. So it's not one brand that is "bad" and the other is "good", just depends on the application. I guess we are still in DI "infancy" where customers are the test dummies for the technology and only recently are the issues finally getting worked out.

 

Seems like HPFP's have been issues across the entire BMW range, not just the MINIs.

 

Yup, Mariokart had his HPFP replaced 3 times on his x35 (forgot which one exactly). It'd be _okay_ is they still cost $300 for the mini except that now they are $1,000 each. At least the job is really simple and quick, unlike the thermostat, water pipe, water pump combo (which is simple and not quick).

 

The HPFPs are $1000 for the Minis now? Or for the BMWs? Yikes.

 

Mini. Mine is a 2012 S N18. Just imagine BMWs with _two_ HPFPs. Stay far away from those models (M4 comes to mind...)

 

Maybe a dumb question, but are the new replacement HPFP's for 2011's any better? Were they updated in some way to hopefully prevent future failures? I only ask because mine was replaced under the remaining factory warranty, and I understand that they only warranty them once.

 

This seems to be what I've been finding when mine acts up.
When my fuel pressure goes away, and throws a code, I can reset the ECU with my Torque app and the fuel pressure returns to normal. So the solenoid hasn't completely failed then, right?

But, it only happens during heat-soak situations too. So maybe this applies?

3. Pressure and Temperature Sensors

While a failed sensor cannot cause a pump to fail, it can cause you to misdiagnose a high-pressure fuel pump. Direct-injection systems use pressure and in some cases temperature sensors to help determine position of the high-pressure pump solenoid.
The information generated by these sensors makes for the best possible combustion event, but these additional sensors can throw you a diagnostic curve ball compared to older port fuel-injected *systems.
These sensors have a ±2% accuracy rate. If the sensors are malfunctioning, they can influence fuel trims. If a sensor fails or is generating readings outside of set parameters, the system will go into a low-pressure safe mode to prevent damage to the system.
The best way to diagnose sensors is with a scan tool to help interpret the data.

 

We can only hope so. But why fix the problem when you can just keep selling thousand dollar pumps muahaha sigh......

 

maybe, without testing the sensors somehow it's just educated guessing. i only had problems on cold start, it would sometimes give me 1/2 engine symbol while farting and backfiring, then default to low pressure, non turbo operation. when i hit any appreciable level of boost, misfire, backfire, back off throttle for fears of exploding engine scenario. no codes were EVER thrown btw.

 

I've killed two so far at 70k miles. Granted I'm tuned and drive hard.

 

if the solenoid is the issue, why not replace that part only? I know they are not readily available but when you are out of warranty, any "cheap" solution is feasible.

unless you buy a used post 2012 HPFP from ebay or a junk yard, you're really hanging on a thin thread!

 

No one makes the solenoid available. No rebuild kits, no aftermarket bolt on replacement. You just need to cough up $1k.