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-   -   Spark Plugs Question (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/311766-spark-plugs-question.html)

asysavanh 02-15-2017 12:03 PM

Spark Plugs Question
 
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...153e37fac6.jpg
I have searched high and low. I can't seem to find an answer or have someone in a similar situation.
I have a 2012 N18. I accidentally bought some NGK spark plugs that were meant for the N14. Is it safe to run these on the N18?
My search results came up showing that NGK doesn't make oem equivalents for the N18. Only Berus. Now I'm stuck with them because the company I ordered won't take returns....
The spark plugs I have are ILZKBR7B8DG stock number 95770. Supposedly these are updated versions of the 5992's.
Does anybody want these or know if they are safe to run?

TheBigNewt 02-15-2017 12:38 PM

I'd ask a dealer's service dept.

chav 02-15-2017 04:17 PM

These aren't even oem n14 these are a step colder I think.

oldbrokenwind 02-15-2017 04:39 PM


Originally Posted by asysavanh (Post 4280479)
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...153e37fac6.jpg
I have searched high and low. I can't seem to find an answer or have someone in a similar situation.
I have a 2012 N18. I accidentally bought some NGK spark plugs that were meant for the N14. Is it safe to run these on the N18?
My search results came up showing that NGK doesn't make oem equivalents for the N18. Only Berus. Now I'm stuck with them because the company I ordered won't take returns....
The spark plugs I have are ILZKBR7B8DG stock number 95770. Supposedly these are updated versions of the 5992's.
Does anybody want these or know if they are safe to run?

Can't help with substitution info --- sorry.


Originally Posted by chav (Post 4280541)
These aren't even oem n14 these are a step colder I think.

Sorry chav --- you're wrong! These plugs are substitutes for the discontinued N14 MCS OEM 5992's, as indicated by the OP. And the heat range is "7" --- one range colder would have an "8" as the first number. The second number, "8" indicates plug gap of 0.8mm.

jackski2 02-19-2017 05:42 AM

Those are what I used in my two N18's before I had to go one step colder for a Manic tune. Worked better than a factory Beru for me.

asysavanh 02-19-2017 08:31 AM


Originally Posted by jackski2 (Post 4281266)
Those are what I used in my two N18's before I had to go one step colder for a Manic tune. Worked better than a factory Beru for me.

do you mind elaborating? How did they compare? Feel? Idle? Start up? Butt performance? Miles ran on the NGK's? I know it's hard to explain. You're the second person I've seen that has ran them in their N18. How many pounds did you torque it down? I read anywhere from 16-20ft lbs.

jackski2 02-20-2017 05:04 AM

I only had them in for 8,500mi. They replaced my original Beru plugs that I took out at 18,000 mi. As always new plugs feel better and I didn't have a new set of Beru's to compare. The Beru's I took out have varying gaps when I checked them so I decided to change to new with the NGK's. For the time I had them in they performed flawless and when I took them out the gaps were all exactly the same.
The only difference that may affect you is that the Beru's need 12 point socket for removal, the NGK's are 6. I put them in at 18 ft lbs first time then 20 each subsequent. I've never had a plug/head problem doing that.

asysavanh 02-21-2017 06:22 PM


Originally Posted by jackski2 (Post 4281426)
I only had them in for 8,500mi. They replaced my original Beru plugs that I took out at 18,000 mi. As always new plugs feel better and I didn't have a new set of Beru's to compare. The Beru's I took out have varying gaps when I checked them so I decided to change to new with the NGK's. For the time I had them in they performed flawless and when I took them out the gaps were all exactly the same.
The only difference that may affect you is that the Beru's need 12 point socket for removal, the NGK's are 6. I put them in at 18 ft lbs first time then 20 each subsequent. I've never had a plug/head problem doing that.

It fired up right away without any problems. I will be switching back to berus just for peace of mind. The original berus were pretty much over due for a change. The NGKs seem to be holding up pretty well. No loss in power at all.

E Man 02-22-2017 07:53 PM

Plugs
 
Those are the correct iridium plugs for your Mini. 90223 are the correct platinum for your mini. I also have a 2012 S with N18 engine. That's the updated # for 5992. Gap them at .7mm

I just changed mine last week, VERY easy operation. Takes about 15 minutes. What I found interesting was, looking down each opening after taking out the coils there was plenty of space for the socket to fit with room to spare. Even with a thin wall socket there was plenty of room to spare. I could have stuck a baseball bat down there. Why all the fuss about a thin wall socket???

New platinum plugs run great in my car. Quick start, snappy acceleration, and the pops on deceleration are back. I only have 21k miles on my car, it ran great before but I can tell a difference with new plugs.

The gaps on the new plugs were inconsistent so I very carefully set them to .7mm One of the plugs I removed was at .7mm, the other 3 were between .8 and .9 So there was some wear on 3 of them, the color was perfect.

asysavanh 02-23-2017 02:15 AM

Thats really great info. Thats for sharing that on here.

cerenkov 02-23-2017 03:03 AM


Originally Posted by E Man (Post 4282180)
...Why all the fuss about a thin wall socket???

I have 3 different regular wall sockets (Craftsman, Kobalt, Stanley), two of them will get stuck, for me only the Stanley will work. Others on this forum have gotten sockets stuck and ended up having to remove the head to get it out.

Regular wall sockets are hit and miss, even from the same manufacturer. Just be careful using one.

Thin wall socket will work every time.

E Man 02-23-2017 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by cerenkov (Post 4282228)
I have 3 different regular wall sockets (Craftsman, Kobalt, Stanley), two of them will get stuck, for me only the Stanley will work. Others on this forum have gotten sockets stuck and ended up having to remove the head to get it out.

Regular wall sockets are hit and miss, even from the same manufacturer. Just be careful using one.

Thin wall socket will work every time.

I hear ya, I'm just saying that wasn't my experience. I bought a thin wall 12 point socket that is 9" long so that I wouldn't need an extension. When I removed and replaced the plugs there was plenty of room to spare around the socket. I'm wondering if all heads are the same because the openings on mine are not tight at all, very roomy. YMMV

P.S. I love the color of your car, and the wheels, are they stock or aftermarket?

cerenkov 02-23-2017 09:01 AM

Thanks!

Wheels are not "stock" (they are an option) and are MINI R112 and typically are found on the JCW.

chav 02-26-2017 02:57 PM


Originally Posted by oldbrokenwind (Post 4280549)
Can't help with substitution info --- sorry.



Sorry chav --- you're wrong! These plugs are substitutes for the discontinued N14 MCS OEM 5992's, as indicated by the OP. And the heat range is "7" --- one range colder would have an "8" as the first number. The second number, "8" indicates plug gap of 0.8mm.

I ran these and tried to gap them for my 09 jcw and I got a misfire

bfjohnso63 04-16-2019 07:18 PM

I can attest to this comment. Stupid YouTube. I got the socket stuck and - although I didn't need to pull the head. I DID have to pull the valve cover and literally use a locking ball 3/8 socket adapter and a damned carpenters PRY BAR to get the stupid thing out. It was not forced in to the plug hole either - went in nice and easy. I bought the correct thin wall 14mm 12 pt and easy peasy. Live and learn (till I forget tomorrow....)


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