On the serpentine belt wrenchs, can regular wrench work of should I pop of the https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Cooper-S...tensioner+tool

I'm still looking for cheaper price but these might be it. I'm wondering since I will be working thru the top/side with the wheel and cover removed, I would think that would give me some room for regular wrenches.

 

I used a 12" pipe wrench

 

If you need any input or help with that list of parts please do not hesitate to shoot me a PM as I'd be more than happy to go over what you'll need/want for this project.

 

So I need to push the mini into the garage and I can't get the shifter to unlock so I could put it in neutral. I reconnected the battery, plugged the key in and pressed the brake but no unlock.

Is there a secret to this?

Thanks again for all of the help. The timing tool kit just arrived and I'm placing the order for the parts the end of this week.

 

Dont tell anyone about this secret. There are two ways. The first' remove the shifter boot by pulling it upwards. There is yellow ribbon. Pull it while you press on the shifter and moving to N. The second way in case that ribbon breaks, use a 13mm to remove the shifter cable nut located near the thermostat housing.

 

The tool I'm using now looks like this set, but made by EWK. Used it a couple years ago with no problems --- hex-head bolts work fine and no trimming on the tool. Using it again on my current re-build.

If you can lock the flywheel, this tool isn't necessary. Puts a lot of stress on the flywheel locking tool tho. It's used to hold the crankshaft while you tighten the damper --- lotsa torque used.

 

Pulled my belt off a couple months ago, without this tool --- pretty sure I just used a 12 pt socket. Altho, I'm working on a bench, not in the engine compartment.

 

So I'm finally getting some time to work on the Mini. I have it disassembled and looks like I'm able to account for most/all of the broken tensioner material. I reread the assembly instructions and see that I don't have the timing chain pretensioner tool.

How critical is this tool for setting pretension prior to installing the cam sprockets?

Also side question, when I removed the crankshaft bolt, the crankshaft pulley was very easy to remove. It looks like it uses pressure to drive both the cam and oil pulley's. Just seems odd to me that it does have some type of positive locking to keep things from spinning.

Again, Thanks for all the help

 

Here's a procedure for diagnosing and replacing your timing chain. There might be a way to not use the pretensioner tool, but I wouldn't recommend it.

The crankshaft bolt is a 1-time use stretch-bolt --- replace it! And yes, if not tightened correctly, the sprocket will loosen and you'll lose timing. Same for the cam sprockets --- 1-time use and torque settings are critical. Odd? Yes --- along with many other MCS features --- keeps tool-makers in business.

 

Ok, Thanks for the information, very helpful. The process I was following instructed me to reinstall the pre-tension tool after step 9.

Current status: New guide, chain assembled in car, crank hub torqued to 50nm/36.8 ft lb (new bolt). Lower and upper guide bolts installed. cam sprockets installed (new bolts) but hand tightened at this point. Should I install the upper guide, tensioner then torque the sprockets and proceed to step 11 removing the timing kit.

 

The procedure I sent is just one of many detailed sequences for doing the job. If you started with a timing chain kit, there's probably no reason to use the pretensioner tool --- just use the new tensioner to tighten the chain --- with all guides in place. Main thing is to have no more than one sprocket torqued tight (hand tight cam sprockets might be too much) when tensioning the chain, and all locking tools in place. Only when the chain is tight, and cams / crank are in place, should all sprockets be torqued. After sprockets are tightened, the locking tools can be safely removed. Always a good idea to rotate the finished assembly a couple times (CW only), then recheck timing --- to ensure nothing slipped.

 

Just wanted to give everyone an update on this project. Finished up last Sunday (02/19) evening, had a last minute issue with battery that cost another $150. So it was like a moment of silence when she cranked it up, lol. It fired up and ran so smooth it was scary. No issues with any bent valves etc. The engine is so quiet now you can actually hear the turbo functioning.

She's been on the road all week, no issues, no leaks. Feeling blessed.

Thank you to everyone that took the time to respond to my questions.

Dave