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-   -   R56 Failed emissions - can't get readiness codes to set (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/300205-failed-emissions-cant-get-readiness-codes-to-set.html)

hidperf 03-10-2016 09:59 PM

Failed emissions - can't get readiness codes to set
 
Quick background:

I've got an Access port with 92oct-Stage I with FMIC
  • AEM intake
  • BSH OCC
  • Magnaflow cat-back
  • Stock downpipe and secondary cat are still in place
  • FMIC

A few weeks ago I drove the car from work, through heavy traffic, to a store. About a 30min drive. When I came out, I started the car and let it idle for a minute or so while I sent some texts (don't text and drive :thumbsup:). Just as I was about to pull away, I got the reduced power light.

I pulled over in an empty lot and plugged in the access port. The three codes that were stored were
  1. P2F8F - Unknown
  2. P2FC4 - Oil Pressure Switch Check Error
  3. P2880 - High Press System Min
I then opened up Torque and checked the code in there.
Fault log report generated by Torque for Android
=================================================
Vehicle VIN:
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: 000007601756
000008601583
ªªªªªª
Current Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no current faults
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P3091: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.
I cleared the codes. Light goes off. Car runs fine.

A couple days later I decided to take the car in for it's semi-annual emissions inspection and I thought that the readiness codes would surely be set by now.
My buddy hooks it up, let it idle, fails because readiness codes are not set.

As I'm getting the Access Port out and getting Torque fired up, on comes another reduced power light. :mad:
I check Torque and the fuel pressure is around 118psi at idle!

After a few seconds it shoots back up to the 700psi range. I clear the codes and head home without a passed inspection.
I've been logging with Torque ever since, trying to capture what is causing the reduced power light, but it hasn't happened again.

I've also been monitoring the readiness codes in Torque so I can take the car back in and pass my inspection (I really want to finish the exhaust build) but I have two checks that won't come on.
Mode $06 report generated by Torque for Android
================================================
Vehicle VIN: Not present
Vehicle Manufacturer: Unknown
Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present
Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$83
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 1.99882 Min: 0.29963
Test result value: 1.1934
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 300ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 20ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$08
Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.15461V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.90963V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.74274V Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.73298V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$82
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.15754V Min: 0.74274V
Test result value: 0.7525V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$86
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 5,000ms Min: 0ms
Test result value: 650ms
PASS
----
MID:$21 TID:$81
- Catalyst Monitor Bank 1
Max: 65,535 Min: 5,121
Test result value: 5,346
PASS
----
MID:$3b TID:$81
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Max: 65,535 Min: 3,438
Test result value: 3,438
PASS
----
MID:$3c TID:$81
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3d TID:$86
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Max: -0.05002 Min: -9.99424
Test result value: -0.05582
PASS
----
MID:$3d TID:$87
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$41 TID:$85
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 1,239.90002°C Min: 789.90002°C
Test result value: 820°C
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$81
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Max: 4,576Ohm Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 168Ohm
PASS
----
End of report.
I've found another post where it was recommended to fill the tank between 50-75%, then drive for at least 25 miles, keeping it under 65MPH. I drove over 30 miles in non-highway traffic immediately after putting gas in the car, and more since then, but still no luck on the evap codes.

I do have the OBDlink on my phone and it says the car is ready for emissions testing in my state, but I'd rather not drive out there if I can't get these evap codes ready.

Thoughts?

GEMSTER 03-11-2016 12:37 AM

Sounds like you need a new HPFP.

GAT 03-11-2016 04:23 AM


Originally Posted by gemster (Post 4185744)
sounds like you need a new hpfp.

+1

hidperf 03-11-2016 05:13 AM


Originally Posted by GEMSTER (Post 4185744)
Sounds like you need a new HPFP.


Originally Posted by GAT (Post 4185764)
+1


I thought the same thing but fuel pressure is within spec according to my logs, except that one time I caught it.
Everything I've read on the HPFP is about cold start problems and the car starts and runs fine after sitting all night or even several hours.
It only seems to do this after heat soaking.

Even if that's the case, a HPFP wouldn't have any impact on the evap readiness, would it?

GAT 03-11-2016 05:21 AM


Originally Posted by hidperf (Post 4185780)
I thought the same thing but fuel pressure is within spec according to my logs, except that one time I caught it.
Everything I've read on the HPFP is about cold start problems and the car starts and runs fine after sitting all night or even several hours.
It only seems to do this after heat soaking.

Even if that's the case, a HPFP wouldn't have any impact on the evap readiness, would it?

I wouldn't think it would impact evap readiness but it certainly will give you the reduced power issue.

Helix13mini 03-11-2016 06:06 AM

I wouldn't sweat the evap readiness yet. How full is your tank? It needs to be between 1/3 empty and 1/3 full and above 40 degrees. You can get it to set faster if you start the car and let it idle for about 10 minutes before you go out and drive it. Why? I don't know, but it always seems to set faster. You do have a number of catalyst monitor O2 sensor codes which will always fail emissions.

-=gRaY rAvEn=- 03-11-2016 07:15 AM

Eric, How about a faulty Leak diagnosis pump @ the fuel tank Part no. 16-13-7-193-479, or a Fuel Tank Breather valve. Part no. 13-53-7-543-285.

ECSTuning 03-11-2016 08:05 AM

For the breather , this has been the issue. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-problems.html

For the leak dia. pump. This has been he issue. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...cel-codes.html

Helix13mini 03-11-2016 08:11 AM


Originally Posted by -=gRay rAvEn=- (Post 4185828)
Eric, How about a faulty Leak diagnosis pump @ the fuel tank Part no. 16-13-7-193-479, or a Fuel Tank Breather valve. Part no. 13-53-7-543-285.

^Yup^. Could very well be. He's got multiple issues, though. Neither a catalyst monitor nor a evap fault will cause limp mode AFAIK, so I'm not 100% sure...

hidperf 03-11-2016 11:04 AM


Originally Posted by Helix13mini (Post 4185803)
I wouldn't sweat the evap readiness yet. How full is your tank? It needs to be between 1/3 empty and 1/3 full and above 40 degrees. You can get it to set faster if you start the car and let it idle for about 10 minutes before you go out and drive it. Why? I don't know, but it always seems to set faster. You do have a number of catalyst monitor O2 sensor codes which will always fail emissions.


I'll try this suggestion to get the evaps set.


I haven't had any CEL, reduced throttle, or other codes since I reset after the emissions test last Saturday. Fingers crossed.

Systemlord 03-11-2016 08:14 PM

You should be using DashCommand to log HPFP, AFRs, FRP, EGTs, MAF and you can also view the logs on your computer for more detailed analysis. Torque is pretty and the gauges look awesome but it's not ideal for data logging and troubleshooting.

hidperf 03-11-2016 09:32 PM


Originally Posted by Systemlord (Post 4186091)
You should be using DashCommand to log HPFP, AFRs, FRP, EGTs, MAF and you can also view the logs on your computer for more detailed analysis. Torque is pretty and the gauges look awesome but it's not ideal for data logging and troubleshooting.


I had Dash Command installed but just the demo version. I didn't seem to have any problem viewing the logs from Torque though, so I didn't see a reason to purchase Dash Command.


MINI's have an EGT sensor from the factory?

ECSTuning 03-14-2016 10:57 AM

Reads from the 02 sensors.

hidperf 03-16-2016 06:48 PM

1 Attachment(s)
OK, update time.

It seems my car is starting to hate me:mad:

I've been data-logging, monitoring, and checking readiness codes since my original post.
  • Finally got all but one readiness code checked in Torque.
  • OBDLink says the car is ready for inspection.
  • Bought DashCommand and it says it's ready for inspection as well.
  • Fuel pressure has always been close to spec, never down in the 120psi range again.
I contact my buddy who's doing the inspection but realize I can't make it to the dealership in time tonight, so I schedule it for this weekend. No problem.



I stop at the store after the drive home from work and I'm sitting in the parking lot, idling and messing with Dash Command since I just purchased it and haven't had time to tinker with it.

I'm probably sitting for a good 5+ minutes.

I then go inside for maybe 15-20mins. As long as it takes to pick up some deli meat and misc., then checkout.



I start the car and while trying to get Dash Command connected, I notice the car is idling strange. So I switch to Torque (Dash Command doesn't connect every time for some reason) and start data-logging. As soon as I do, CEL comes up for reduced power. Code is once again P3091
Fuel pressure is ~120psi and doesn't fluctuate with RPM. :mad:



While it's still running, I clear the code using Torque. Fuel pressure immediately jumps near spec and the car runs fine.

I let it idle to see if the pressure drops again, nope. :no:
Continue logging the whole way home and it never drops again.



So it seems that the fuel pressure issues is related to heat soak. It's NEVER had the common problem with low fuel pressure and hard starting after sitting overnight, only after sitting for short periods of time after long drives and idling.




I've attached my logs from this trip and you can see the pressure is ~120psi and stays right there no matter the RPM.

At 29:27.5 Device time you can see where I cleared the CEL and the pressure increases to ~600psi.


Is there an electronic control on the HPFP that opens a return port that possibly impacted by under-hood temperatures?

hidperf 03-26-2016 02:14 PM

Finally passed!

Removed the OCC and the Access Port and everything finally set.

Had to put the Access Port back on immediately though. I couldn't drive on the stock tune anymore.

Still think it's odd that the ECU was holding the volume control valve open though.

ECSTuning 03-29-2016 05:20 AM

Thanks for the update.


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