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Let's talk about oil's!!!
So let's talk about oil's...
what brand and wight and why did you decide to run it!! give us all the dirt why. i know mini say's to run 5w30 but it's Saturday and it's -18 out in Wisconsin and Netflix's is getting lame. so let's talk about it. |
I mean, I run Royal Purple 5w30. I really don't think it matters all that much to be honest. I like Royal Purple because I have always had success with it. It was what I was recommended and all of my vehicles have run very smoothly.
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I've heard people say that if you change every 5k miles you can run pretty much anything. I myself run the MINI brand oil...because, surprisingly, it's the cheapest synthetic I can get.
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I have been running Mobil1 0w40 European Formula since buying my 2011 MCS hatch used at 22k, now at about 52k. Changed every 5k, with MINI genuine filters, by myself, most times on jackstands at home. Lots of folks here and on other MINI forums were recommending that oil, and I must say, so far, so good. Less than a quart used between changes. I buy the oil at WalMart. Cheap. IIRC, about $23.00 for the 5-quart jug. The OEM filters can be had in quantity on Ebay for about 11.00 each, and include a new crush washer for the drain plug.
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Originally Posted by renchjeep
(Post 4164940)
I have been running Mobil1 0w40 European Formula...
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Used Motul full synthetic 5w-40 because of the warm weather but didnt like it and change to liquid moly 5w-40 full synthetic and the car runs smother even at cold start.
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Mini of STL told me to run penzoil 5w-30 full synthetic. So that's what I run. My local autozone was offering 5 quarts of oil and a free oil filter for 32 bucks. Now what I'm wondering is if after adding so much oil if you can just change the oil filter and it be like an oil change.
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Originally Posted by renchjeep
(Post 4164940)
I have been running Mobil1 0w40 European Formula since buying my 2011 MCS hatch used at 22k, now at about 52k. Changed every 5k, with MINI genuine filters, by myself, most times on jackstands at home. Lots of folks here and on other MINI forums were recommending that oil, and I must say, so far, so good. Less than a quart used between changes. I buy the oil at WalMart. Cheap. IIRC, about $23.00 for the 5-quart jug. The OEM filters can be had in quantity on Ebay for about 11.00 each, and include a new crush washer for the drain plug.
The Mobil one is easy to get at Wally World and I just bought 5 genuine filters for 53 bucks on Ebay. |
(semi-OT) Are OE oil filters considered to be the choice or is there a high quality aftermarket alternative? Reason being, I purchased Mann filters for Mom's car because they've always served me well in my VWs, Audis, and Volvos. But I can see there are clearly some design differences in the Mann oil filter when compared to OE. Has anyone else used Mann OFs here? If so, any issues?
(Back on-topic) Probably 'old news' but....http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Everything you wanted to know about motor oil...and then some. :thumbsup: |
I'm in the Mobil1 0w40 European Formula from WalMart club. Change every 5000
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I have run Mann filters through my last three oil changes and no issues. I am not sure if K&N filters make any difference, but I Change my Mini's oil every 3,000 with Full Synth right now. I am trying to flush out any and all contaminants in the engine and it seems to be working better and better each time. My oil went form being black at 3000 miles to getting lighter each time!
Erik
Originally Posted by 4ringcircus
(Post 4165019)
(semi-OT) Are OE oil filters considered to be the choice or is there a high quality aftermarket alternative? Reason being, I purchased Mann filters for Mom's car because they've always served me well in my VWs, Audis, and Volvos. But I can see there are clearly some design differences in the Mann oil filter when compared to OE. Has anyone else used Mann OFs here? If so, any issues?
(Back on-topic) Probably 'old news' but....http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Everything you wanted to know about motor oil...and then some. :thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by 4ringcircus
(Post 4165019)
(semi-OT) Are OE oil filters considered to be the choice or is there a high quality aftermarket alternative? Reason being, I purchased Mann filters for Mom's car because they've always served me well in my VWs, Audis, and Volvos. But I can see there are clearly some design differences in the Mann oil filter when compared to OE. Has anyone else used Mann OFs here? If so, any issues?
(Back on-topic) Probably 'old news' but....http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ Everything you wanted to know about motor oil...and then some. :thumbsup: I use Castrol 0W-40 European formula. Mobil1 doesn't have the BMW LL-01 designation. |
Old thread but a good one. Its winter again and time to ponder things lol.
I use amsoil Z-ROD in all my vehicles. 05 ram, 04 sebring, 09 mini, 77 colony park and 64 Cadillac. You can't run a new formula oil in a flat tappet cammed car and have the camshaft survive. A local engine builder won't use anything less than a high zinc oil when running an engine on the dyno. As far as I'm concerned our timing chains are similar to a flat tappet cams and the low zinc oil allows it to wear out quicker. But again talking about oil is like taking about politics. |
Originally Posted by bcriverjunky
(Post 4165544)
I'm in the Mobil1 0w40 European Formula from WalMart club. Change every 5000
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Big story.
For the first 60,000km, I used the MINI spec Castrol oil (5w30). Change every 5-7,000km. Then I jumped to the Castrol 10W60 and got rid of them in 2000km, as I had the impresion that the engine was having a hard time in morning starts. Now, I am using the Liqui Moly Top tec 4100 10W-40, with LL04 specification (same as the one used by MINI). Super happy with that, oil consumption droped to 200-300ml per 1,000km. |
I use Castrol full syn. (5w20 as per the oil cap) switching over to mobil 0 w 40. car smokes a lot the 0w40 should help I hope.
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On the recommendation of a Mini specialty shop in the area, I use Liquid Moly Leichtlauf 5w-40. They said it’s the best and are a lot smarter than I am. It seems to make the car very happy, runs nice and quiet. Quieter than the Royal Purple I used to use.
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Originally Posted by I like mini clubman's
(Post 4445870)
Old thread but a good one. Its winter again and time to ponder things lol.
I use amsoil Z-ROD in all my vehicles. 05 ram, 04 sebring, 09 mini, 77 colony park and 64 Cadillac. You can't run a new formula oil in a flat tappet cammed car and have the camshaft survive. A local engine builder won't use anything less than a high zinc oil when running an engine on the dyno. As far as I'm concerned our timing chains are similar to a flat tappet cams and the low zinc oil allows it to wear out quicker. But again talking about oil is like taking about politics. |
Wow, lots of info out there..... while I did find something about the zinc additive contributing to premature timing chain wear, it was an article about VW TDI engines. The rest of what I read was pretty much in agreement with what “I Like Mini Clubmans” wrote above. After reading a few, I would agree that our engines compare more closely with the flat tappet engines as opposed to the roller type camshaft engine. The consensus seemed to be that zinc is good in flat tappet and high performance or built engines, and the most important time to have increased zinc in a modern engine is during break-in, but still good to use for its life in the form of higher zinc oils like liquid moly and such. Very interesting reading, I’m going back in for more! |
Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
(Post 4447512)
On the recommendation of a Mini specialty shop in the area, I use Liquid Moly Leichtlauf 5w-40. They said it’s the best and are a lot smarter than I am. It seems to make the car very happy, runs nice and quiet. Quieter than the Royal Purple I used to use.
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I am running the Liqui moly also on both MINIs.
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I must had a weak moment, most of the time I won't post what brand of oil I use. I'll give a type of oil just not the brand. Manufacturers are usually pushing an oil for a reason, mostly to make money. Oil is oil is oil, the additive packages are what the difference is between them. Certain additive play havoc with and engines sensors and emmisions equipment. Manufacturers have to warrenty that stuff almost forever. They also want the most miles per gallon possible. You can't get that with a high tension or thick oil. I only use oil with a very high zinc content for all my vehicles. I also tailor the viscosity to the ambient temperature for the period following the oil change. I do all my own work.
as a side note I was testing oil pumps for a 496 ci Chevy. Certain oils could not be pumped cold or hot as it took more horse power than my drill press could put out at the lowest speed setting. |
After install of https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...fe8d90cd8.jpegoil filter relocation & oil cooler thinkinh about switching over to molly or royal purple |
Looking at your oil cooler engine adapter with four ports. Are the two forward facing ports for oil cooling? if yes, which one is out and what one is in? The reason i ask is that i bought an oil cooler adapter used and i don't know what side is hot and cold for the inline mechanical thermostat/
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blue/green lines into remote filter houseing Yellow oil drain from turbo black coolant red n18 oil pressure switch https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...e123812b9.jpeg |
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