Buying a used 2008 Cooper S Automatic - Transmission question
 

Hey guys!!! Its been since 2009 or so since I posted here! I used to own a 2006 Brand New Cooper S with lots of mod work but sadly let it go. So now I am looking into another Mini S! I found a decent used one. It is a 2008 with sub 70k mileage.

My question is: How are the transmissions in the automatic in this make S? (I loved my manual but have always wanted to try the auto with shifters) I know all about the Class Action suit on the first gen, but know little about the new trans. Any input would be appreciated (Accept for trashing on automatic type talk as I get ok?)

Thanks gang!!! Jeff

Eh... I'd at least get an N18 engine if your going with an r56

Sadly, I am just getting back into the mini scene and I am unschooled on the engines out there. Its more about the reliability of the transmission for me. My R53 was stage 4 madness and bad to the bone. Someone in the Portland Oregon Metro area owns it now... Pure silver with black rally center stripes. She was a gem.

well good tranny won't help much when your timing chain craps out. Your r53 was the best year to buy with a bullet proof motor, the 2008... Not so much.

Yep, do some research on NAM. The early second gen mini has a pretty bad rep..

So, would you say its so bad, that you go to another brand before owning one of those 2007 - 2009 years?

I have an 08. Late 08. I never had a problem with the automatic Trans until I added serious mods and started creating some good horsepower. I now make enough that about 5 passes in a
1/4 mile and some serious horsing around on a road course I can wipe that Trans totally out. I'd say safely 300 hp car is ok. Over that your pushing your luck. As far as having the paddle shifters, not what they are cracked up to be. They are positive as one would think. The transmissions need tuning after modifying the engine like I have and knowone can do it yet.
If you want it to over 6500 rpm, not gonna happen, no matter what whether you like it or not the Trans WILL shift on its own at 6500 rpm. Can you make it more positive like a shift kit, NOPE. Some company out there needs to step up with programming the Trans computer and creating a GOOD positive shift. If they did that the auto Trans cars would not be beat. But, in my opinion if I did another car, until someone comes up with a built Trans that shifts when you want it to shift whether it's in manual mode or not, I wouldn't bother with one. They are junk. I just would build a manual car next time. UNTIL SOMEONE STEPS UP WITH REPROGRAMMING THE TRANS CONTROL MODULE AND ADDS A BETTER CLUTCH PACK FOR HOLDING horsepower like I have.

continued, I wouldnt bother.
It totally baffles me why people do a bunch of research a design to provide us with tuning options but totally skip the Trans. What good is it if you can put it down. I can do 40-50 mph burn outs. I can roast that fricken tire. As far as which engine, by looking at other posts, I'd stay with the N14. Pretty simple still if you wanna add cams or modify the head. Can't do that with the N18. To much monkey motion in that valve train
Considering my mods, excluding the knit whit who over bored the block, it's actually been pretty reliable. Until I turned up the power and wiped out the Trans.

I haven't read many posts about problems with the AT in those years, lots of threads about the n14 engine (timing chain, oil consumption, etc)..

If you did a down pipe, intercooler, CAI intake and the jcw manifold it'll be reliable. Don't expect positive shift kit type of feel tho. Keep the boost no more than 18-20 psi with an auto and it'll be ok.
Again, a build like mine, go to a stick. Or Your asking for trouble. But the 08-10 n14 with automatic is reliable in my opinion. As far as the chain is concerned, I think people over react. I had 185,000 miles on mine before I touched it. And I beat the balls off it. I drive hard. Oil consumption ?, well, they are what they are, piss pour design. The crankcase requires a vacuum on it due to the ring pack design. 1.0,1.2,2.8 mm ring package. All that thin stuff was originally designed to be used under vacuum. Take the vac away to stop oil burn you will induce premature ring failure and blow bye. Get rid of the intake vac source and run a 12 volt electric vac pump to truly fix the issue and let it drip on the ground. It's just a shitty design. I'd rather have a fat ring without the vac to eliminate these issues.

Well guys, as luck would have it, I am not getting the 2008 anymore. I found a true diamond in the rough. A real gem. 2005 Very well Equipped S with the same pure silver/black color scheme my 2006 was. And the real kicker? It only has 28,000 ORIGINAL miles on it!!! One owner. Older gal in her 70s traded it in. Hardly ever drove it.

28k miles and owned by a little old lady? Priceless! Congrats..

Thanks! Im pretty psyched. Wont be taking it all the way to stage 4 Madness kit this time around, but will likely do the charger pulley, intake, exhuast at some point. Keeping this one for the long haul! Should have never let the other one go.

Excellent find!