Replacing clutch master cylinder
 

So I just purchased a clutch master cylinder (also called an input cylinder) from ECS Tuning and am wondering if I should replace it myself or have the mechanic do it. The mechanic is charging $80 for labor, however it seems its just under the steering wheel and might not be that difficult to do.

Do I need to bleed anything as you would when you replace the slave cylinder? Is it just a simple replacement?

By the way the reason I am replacing it is because when you press the clutch in I feel a double step, and also it makes a squeaking noise. The clutch was just replaced a couple of weeks ago and have no issues changing gears or anything. When pressing the clutch it only really engages in the second level of the double step vs the first part, when someone tests my car they usually have a hard time driving it as they try to push the clutch half way since the second level is a bit harder. Does this sound like the master cylinder?

If was me, I'd pay the mechanic the $80 assuming he's familiar with Mini's. From the reading I've done, bleeding the line can be tricky..

Bleeding the clutch is a nightmare, pay the $80 because I paid $150 to have the dealer do it after attempting to do it myself. You must have a power bleeder to do it on your own anyway. You might also have issue with the two plastic bushing on each side of the clutch pedal high up in the dash, they are cheap plastic and don't bother trying to do that yourself either, because you need a special tool to compress the return spring which is stronger than human strength! Took me a day and a half to get that damn return spring back on. Since the clutch hydraulic system shares the brake fluid from the braking system you'll have to bleed to both. Make sure your mechanic knows this fact.

Thanks AZdsrt and Systemlord, I will just give it to the mechanic than. Not sure how familiar he is with Mini's but he changed my clutch and did a good job. Will let him know about bleeding the brake system as they do share the same fluid. Also will let him know about the return spring.

Edited . Fixed

+1 $80 is a good price.

I have some questions. How is it that you can buy an automotive product from some entity, and then bring it to a mechanic, and ask him or her to install it for you? Would you ever buy a steak at a local supermarket, bring it to a restaurant, and ask them to cook it for you? I suspect the answer would be no.

You probably won't get any warranty from the mechanic. Several mechanics I have taken my cars to over the years would allow me to bring in parts (sometimes!!) but wouldn't warranty the work, because they couldn't guarantee the quality of the parts.

If you have cleared it with the mech ahead of time, it's a way to save some $$. It's usually not a good idea to make a habit of it, though, because the profit mechanics make on the parts helps them to pay their bills and keep the doors open.

I actually took it to the mechanic first and asked him to get it fixed, he couldn't find the part and asked me to get it and he would install it. I definitely don't make it a habit to buy a part and have them install it. I just don't want to deal with that hassle however after he called a few local places he had no way to get the part. In addition this is a mechanic guy that does all our work and works on every type of car not just mini's so I am not surprised his usual contacts can't get the part as it seems mini is not as common as we would like them to be. :)

I checked the pdf, while its a great article it doesn't show the clutch master cylinder, is there another one for the clutch master cylinder?

thanks!

Sorry my mistake , for some reason I though you said master cylinder. lol

The clutch master is relativity the same set up on the R56 as it is on the R53. Its bleeding the clutch system can be a pain. You will have bleed the system down near the slave cylinder.

Here is a Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder Replacement DIY that may be helpful. :thumbsup:

More parts made from plastic... I remember the day they were made from cast aluminum or steel and lasted a long time (150,000 miles).

Well the mechanic told me he was afraid he would break the part and decided not to replace it!!! On my way back the freaking hood scoop flew off in the freeway and now its a gonner (well I can't freaking find it).

So now does anyone know where I can get a cheap hood scoop? I doubt I will get the original color (sparkling gray) so perhaps black or chrome? Does this overlay actually replace the whole scoop or do I need the scoop to place this onto? http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2009-C...16A/ES2534844/

Also anyone know of any good cheap mini cooper mechanics? I called the dealer and for labor they wanted $450! Then I called a european car place and they would do it for $300.

If you're going to ask for a mechanic referral, might want to post where you live ;)

I would just pay the $300-$450 for the assurance that it will be done right the first time! I would never let some cheaper mechanic touch my Mini unless he regularly performed work on Mini's, be wary of cheap mechanics!

You could also buy a primed hood scoop and have it painted to color match the rest of your Mini.

Sorry I live in Houston, TX. I do want a good mini mechanic but this mini is costing me an arm and a leg. I love the mini itself but am beginning to question the reliability of minis in general.

I ended up contacting mini world in California, they have a mini junkyard, the guy said he has a lot of scoops but will let me know if they have a sparkling gray by tomorrow :) Hopefully they do.

Lol never heard of Mini World and yet I live in California not to far from Mini World, there is a Mini World because of the fact that they are not reliable. They only just came out in 2002 and already there is a graveyard of Mini Coopers! :lol:

It only took 12 years and already there is a mass graveyard of Mini Coopers, unbelievable! You would think if they were reliable most would still be on the road today. There is got to be more N14 equipped Mini Coopers than any other. :lol:

If that doesn't end up working, try searching on www.car-part.com. It does a continent wide search of junkyards for the part you're needing. I found my used steering rack on there and a bunch of other things. :thumbsup:

awesome site, thanks Pelican I just purchased a stock used radio for my mother's mini van and I could have saved myself about 100 bucks if I would have used this site!

The scoop is $140 bucks on there, its a little out of my range for now, perhaps I should just drive it the way it is for about and find the scoop a little slower once one turns up.

You're very welcome. It's a great site to use when searching for used parts. Just keep check back on there as it gets updated daily with used parts. Hopefully you'll find something suitable soon. :thumbsup:

OK guys I can't find anyone to do this for under 300 bucks and right now I really don't have the money to spend it, even the 80 bucks was a little pushing it at the moment as things aren't looking too great at work. So I have decided to do it myself and after reading Pelican's instructions it seems doable, however the question is, do I have to pressurice the break system after installing the new clutch master cylinder, also do I have to bleed the breaks? I will not let the break fluid go out too much when switching the lines so I doubt air will get in there.

Thanks!

I sure hope you have a power bleeder or there is going to be no bleeding.

Its an overlay. 971076 So you have to have a scoop there already.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/ES2534844/


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...61db015f26.jpg


Factory chrome scoop here: 51142353882

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51142353882/


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...198741fa42.jpg


&

The little black grille insert , if you want it. 51232752275

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51232752275/


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...2628c70e8e.jpg


Otherwise you would have to get primed one then have it painted.

Took the car to a new mechanic to install the clutch master cylinder and he told me the problem is not with the master cylinder but with the clutch pedal itself. Turns out it is made of plastic and wiggles left and right and this is why it has what feels like a two stage step when pressing the clutch.

He ordered a new pedal from the dealer at $30 (which in my opinion is super cheap), and will replace it at $130, he said that if I want the master cylinder replaced while he is in there he will just charge about $180 labor, which I think is not bad at all.

If anyone is looking for a mechanic who works on minis (or at least is willing to work on them) for a good price in Houston TX check out
Flannigan's Automotive
14537 Alderson St, Houston, TX

I will post updates on how things come out after he works on my vehicle, so far the guy seems honest and doesn't mind taking his time to find out more about the car. Also it helps he likes mini's and is/was considering getting one.