hmmm, new member and this is your first post... just saying.

 

Think what you want bud! I will be laughing while you're spending hours to fix what took me and my son about 10 minutes. I am not one to post on blogs, or right reviews but this product worked so well for me I just wanted to pass along my experience. For the skeptics, keep doing it your way, for the ones who try this product you will be happy with the results.

 

+1 on this.

DIY here on how to remove and clean.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cleaning.html

 

Pics or it didn't happen

 

Just remember all solvent based upper induction cleaners do result in scouring of the pistons and cylinder walls when the smaller particles of the coking brrreak loose and some are forced between the piston and cylinder wall....see this all the time when tearing down. But the results are very noticeable. No substitute for a manual valve cleaning or media blasting with crushed walnut shell.

 

Totally correct, there's no way for you to know unless you remove the intake manifold. It takes incredible pressure and walnut shells to remove baked on oil based carbon not to be confused with gasoline based carbon deposits. If it were that easy people wouldn't pay hundreds of dollars to have their intake valves blasted by walnut media not to mention the development of creating special tools.

Even if the product did work you wouldn't be able to stop the carbon from crumbling apart uncontrollably causing damage to the piston rings, valves and cylinder walls under boost. It would be like sand blasting the combustion chambers while under boost.

 

Systemlord is 100% correct. Only way to prevent this is from one of the very few can systems that do stop nearly all the ingestion, and almost all only trap 15-40% tops.....so read a few of the independent long term tests to see. Read the "another legitimate catchcan thread" for all sorts of data.

 

I use the Wynns product.
In my opinion much better then Walnut Blast, Seafoam
All thou alot of people like the Walnut Blast, the bottom line is that it is just Hyped.
Not really needed.

 

After having manually cleaned my valves using a combination of picks and walnut shell blasting a couple years back, I'm not convinced that there exists a product that would take that stuff off or dissolve it. People may be getting a marginal amount of the gunk off with chemicals...maybe enough to make a bit of a performance difference....but I have yet to see anyone show any before and after pics of fully-coked valves being totally cleaned by chemicals. The stuff that came off of my valves was virtually hard as a rock and had to be chipped off for the most part.

I'm not insinuating that people aren't telling the truth here...I'm just a skeptic when it comes to using these chemical methods to do a complete cleaning job on really caked valves.

 

I just had mine walnut blasted at 52,000 and the difference in performance was night and day ....I will have another done (if I am lucky and the car is still running) in another 30,000 because it really seems this is the only way to get the gunk out.

 

Have you ever seen walnut blasting being performed and seen the actual results? I don't understand how walnut blasting can be called hype, there's plenty of before and after pictures (You Tube videos) showing the results. Perhaps an assumption without having all the facts?

 

Well, I used the CRC yesterday. Very quick and easy. Idle was significantly more stable afterwards and the engine ran much smoother. Obviously, there are no pictures, but the CRC treatment did some good.

Andre71 - where did you inject the CRC?

Eric

 

Systemlord is correct.....no damaging residue from the crushed walnut shell media......and I am an actual GM trained tech (back in 1974) and an Automotive Engineer and member in good standing of SAE (Society of automotive engineers) and work primarily on these issues and the solutions for them......tear down and examine and long term test every type gas DI engine you could imagine.

Watch this video if you have any doubt, and I can post tons of pics f the damage CRC/Seafoam/BG and the other solvent based cleaners if any want to see the scouring first hand:


There are thousands and thousands of examples. The crushed walnut shell blasting process is done with the cylinder to be cleaned at TDC so no debris can enter the combustion chamber. The abrasiveness of the media will not harm any component, and no solvent can come close....what the solvent based cleaner do is expand the deposit so a good portion breaks loose and most is expelled out the exhaust port. This shocks the catalytic converter (do a google search to see how many fail immediately after a solvent based cleaning as this debris and solvent hitting the red hot catalyst material fracture it.....and how many turned rod bearings when the oil is not immediately changed after the solvent cleaning as a good amount of the solvent enters the crankcase mixing with the oil and the dilution and debris then circulates through the engine. The oil pump first circulates the engine oil through the rods/mains/on many engines before it reaches the filter, and the filter does not remove the solvent. Again, I travel the country and Canada training service center techs on the new DI engines and the unique issues they have and see all of this time and time again.

Hope this sheds some light for those that don't fully understand all of this as most only base decisions on assumptions, and yes, after a solvent based service of course the engine will regain some lost power and pep.. but at what long term sacrifice?

 

I used it an have seen results in both gas mileage and pickup. I have a little over 100k on my mini and I doubt it has ever been done. Now I realize walnut blasting is the gold standard but this seems to have done something.

 

 

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I have used the CRC spray per the instructions. Because I used it in January I can judge the cold weather starts and performance. There is a clear improvement in cold starts but no great difference in mileage. I don't have any microbore pictures and plan on doing more to the valves later. I just have to pick up the special tool for the walnut blast. The MCS has 120,000 miles on it so I am sure there was some carbon build up. It really spit and sputtered when I started it after the one hour soak but it ran nicely after about 30 seconds. For the $16 it cost and the improvement in cold starts, I am pleased and would recommend it.

 

I used the CRC a couple of months ago and had some improvements of pick and go. A month later I tore the intake off and the valves were still gunk up with carbon. I performed a walnut blast treatment and a lot better now. I personally think the CRC is ok to use on the intermittent between walnut blasting, but does NOT get rid of the carbon build up