Help me!! It's really urgent.
 

I got 07 mini cooper non-s model. Today, I woke up and tried to go to shop market and I realized my remote key doesn't work. I pushed open button and it didn't open so kept pushing it in front of my car and suddenly the indicator (below RPM) shows symbol that tells me vehicle electroonics failed? on red!!. I separate with the fob and key and I used key to open it and I tried to start engine and engine is on but symbols (ABS, brake, whatever) and also the gas indicator shows empty. What is wrong.. It seemed nothing wrong yesterday. anybody can help me?
If I take it to body shop, it will cost too much? please let me know.

you need a good mechanics help, but maybe your battery failed:confused:

You think so? I haven't change the battery since I bought my mini.
It hits 61k now.

I would say it's the battery too, when those get ready to go bad or go bad you get all sorts of failures.

any recommendation for battery brand? and i forgot to tell you guys that when I turn on engine, even rpm and speedometer stays on zero 0.

Get one you can afford. I believe you have a little gas plug on your original so make sure the new one has that. Take out the old and bring in to an auto parts store, they should be able to fix you up.
The one I replaced my old with was about $100 w/ 72 mo. warranty.
Works great.
If you have comfort access, change the battery in your key fob also.
Mine went out about the same time.

On second generation MINIs the key is charged by the car when it is stuck in the dash.

The stock OEM battery is made by Exide.

Dave

Thank you guys for good information. I finally fixed it. the cause was battery. I really appreciate it.

Dave, mine is 2nd gen with comfort access. My fob has a battery and does not recharge in the key slot. I have to change the battery. I was told this is only on the car with the comfort access.
FYI
Dave as well.

Ahh comfort access! I didn't know they were different that way.

Dave

Wow! Again another battery failure story that has a completely different set of symptoms. It is amazing how poorly these vehicles handle a dying/dead battery. Seems most modern batteries fail like this, quickly and randomly. I am glad you got 'er up and and running again!

It's not just Mini, it's every car with half a sophisticated electronics suite. When these things don't get 12V, they go batc*it. That's why most techs start first at the battery when beginning electrical diagnosis. As for batteries dieing quickly and randomly, that's typical of any electronic component. Just have to be cognoscent of how the system works and keep on eye on wearable items. :thumbsup:

I second that. When my battery went on my Spec V I was going 70 and turned the headlights on and the car died. When I turned the lights off the car started back up. Mind you this was all while I was going 70 down a hill. And I don't know how you would consider 61k miles on the original battery random and a bad thing for it to die, considering most car batteries are good for about 5 years(avg 12k miles x 5 years= 60k miles). Just saying.

After reading this post, I think I know what might be going on with my MINI. It is having a hard time starting in the morning. It will go through its start routine but does not kick over. after about the third or fourth time it starts. My theory is the Battery has the juice to run the starter but not the fuel pump or maybe not enough to run the coils/plugs. Once it starts it runs fine. then anytime after the first start it kicks over every time. the car is 5 1/2 yo, and I have 59000 miles.

Time for a battery. My 07 went at 58K, replaced battery and has been good ever since.
So, the 60K/5 year thing on the battery is right on.

Probably a battery, since your car starts you can take it to Advance Auto or Autozone and they can test your battery for you. Probably has a dead cell.

Went to advance auto last night, their meter kept getting an error and would not give a read-out. He and I have the same theory as you. Looked at pulling the cowel off to get at the battery and found it a little too difficult to get the rubber molding to clear the window. I'm afraid I will damage the cowel and not be able to fit it back and not get a good seal. So I plan to take it to the dealer and bend over.

There are only 2 nuts to remove. Located at the left of the cowl.
Take the little stripe of chrome off as well and loosen up the rubber molding as well. Then it will just slide out toward the front. Easy!!!!

DRfisimmons , thank you for the info on the battery cover. I was able to get it off and get the battery out. Took it to two places, both told me battery was fine. Any other ideas as to the starting problem? I may just have to take it to the dealer and have them look at it.

Has your High Pressure Fuel Pump been replaced? The symptoms match pretty close.

Just as Strobeyprobey stated, symptoms are very much like the HPFP.
That's one thing I haven't had an issue with (yet).
If it is, Mini has extended warranty on it for 10 years/100K miles so at least it won't cost you. If that's it.
By the way, I just noticed you are in Omaha. I lived there from 1968 to 2002 before coming down here. Used to work at First Data Corp.

Yes have pondered that might be Issue also. But have been told that if it was, the car would be dead in its tracks. Once I get it to start, it runs fine. Have had it at the dealer a couple of weeks ago for this issue and a cel (thought the problems were related) They replaced my cracked intake boot and told be I had a leaky valve cover gasket. It started fine for a couple of days and then the problem came right back. Also have done a couple of seafoam treatments thinking it might be carbon buildup.

I'm out of suggestions. Let us know what you eventually find out, it may help others if they have a similar issue. It may just be a sensor that's acting up and telling the ECU somethings wrong so don't start. Then it's ok and it starts. They can do weird things.

Good luck with it.

Just ran out for awhile and she threw a CEL at me. I'm going to advance auto and see if they can read the code and I'll look it up in the Bently manual. Just for a test. I bet it has something to do with too much carbon being detected. I'll post tomarrow.

Went to advance auto and codes showed PO301 & PO303 (misfires on#1 and 3 cylinder). Took it dealer today they may get to it tomarrow but they are filled up doing the aux water pump recalls. I'll post the results