R56 Gas mileage myths: C&D
I just did some "experiments" on the coasting issue and didn't get the results I expected. Since the fuel is supposed to be shut off when the car is decelerating, I expected that going down hill in 6th gear would give better mpg than coasting with the clutch in. I used a ScanGaugeII to see the mpg reading because it will display higher numbers than the tach digital readout.
Going down a steep hill at 55 mph in 6th produced 120 mpg. Going down the same hill at the same speed produced just under 300 mpg with the clutch in. Foot completely off the gas pedal in both cases.
I also noticed that going down my very steep driveway in 1st gear gets no better than 24 mpg (going up is 6-8 mpg
). In theory, if the fuel was cut off on deceleration, it should be pegging the highest number the ScanGaugeII could display.

Going down a steep hill at 55 mph in 6th produced 120 mpg. Going down the same hill at the same speed produced just under 300 mpg with the clutch in. Foot completely off the gas pedal in both cases.
I also noticed that going down my very steep driveway in 1st gear gets no better than 24 mpg (going up is 6-8 mpg
). In theory, if the fuel was cut off on deceleration, it should be pegging the highest number the ScanGaugeII could display.
I still think that coasting is too risky to do as a general practice. Even if you can maintain control, you have to be very careful about matching engine speed and drivetrain speed when re-engaging the clutch. Otherwise, the wear-and-tear could more than offset the savings in gas.
I just did some "experiments" on the coasting issue and didn't get the results I expected. Since the fuel is supposed to be shut off when the car is decelerating, I expected that going down hill in 6th gear would give better mpg than coasting with the clutch in. I used a ScanGaugeII to see the mpg reading because it will display higher numbers than the tach digital readout.
Going down a steep hill at 55 mph in 6th produced 120 mpg. Going down the same hill at the same speed produced just under 300 mpg with the clutch in. Foot completely off the gas pedal in both cases.
I also noticed that going down my very steep driveway in 1st gear gets no better than 24 mpg (going up is 6-8 mpg
). In theory, if the fuel was cut off on deceleration, it should be pegging the highest number the ScanGaugeII could display.
Going down a steep hill at 55 mph in 6th produced 120 mpg. Going down the same hill at the same speed produced just under 300 mpg with the clutch in. Foot completely off the gas pedal in both cases.
I also noticed that going down my very steep driveway in 1st gear gets no better than 24 mpg (going up is 6-8 mpg
). In theory, if the fuel was cut off on deceleration, it should be pegging the highest number the ScanGaugeII could display.
I still think that coasting is too risky to do as a general practice. Even if you can maintain control, you have to be very careful about matching engine speed and drivetrain speed when re-engaging the clutch. Otherwise, the wear-and-tear could more than offset the savings in gas.
Jim
- Mark
Hmmm.
I've run a couple of full tanks with shifting into neutral and coasting downhill and a couple of full tanks with staying in gear on downhills.
I think I get better mileage coasting. The difference may be as much as 2 mpg (almost 5% for me).
Seat of the pants, this makes sense to me because my car maintains speed better in neutral than when it is in gear but my foot off the gas. That is, I have to maintain pressure on the accelerator in gear to maintain the same speed as in neutral.
I've run a couple of full tanks with shifting into neutral and coasting downhill and a couple of full tanks with staying in gear on downhills.
I think I get better mileage coasting. The difference may be as much as 2 mpg (almost 5% for me).
Seat of the pants, this makes sense to me because my car maintains speed better in neutral than when it is in gear but my foot off the gas. That is, I have to maintain pressure on the accelerator in gear to maintain the same speed as in neutral.
Fuel flow isn't directly measured in mosts cars as low-flow fuel transducers are fairly expensive so it is "inferred" from other data. At the levels of mileage you're attempting to measure, I think you're looking at anomalies of the sensors and the algoirthms, not accurate data. On your driveway, the speeds (both engine and road) may be low enough that the engine is using idle fuel.
- Mark
- Mark
ScanGauge details how to 'calibrate' the MPG function of its 'Trip' features by entering actual amount fuel added.
Believe it also has a Gallons-Per-Hour reading, that would give you a good idea of the actual fuel use while idling.
If it would read in "Pounds Per Hour" (or mile) it would be more accurate, we buy it by the gallon, but engines burn it by the pound
and there is a measureable difference between Winter and Summer 'pounds per gallon'.
Last edited by pilotart; Nov 14, 2008 at 04:16 PM.
I did an experiment last year when I took a trip to Colorado. I thought the hills would kill my mileage. But I got several mpg better overall by all the coasting downhill. I saved more on the downhills than used on the uphill portions so net gain. Thought it was weird...
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
I did an experiment last year when I took a trip to Colorado. I thought the hills would kill my mileage. But I got several mpg better overall by all the coasting downhill. I saved more on the downhills than used on the uphill portions so net gain. Thought it was weird...
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
Jim
When it was a decent size hill I'd engine brake, so it was in gear. I'd drop out of gear if my speed dropped and there was too much engine braking.
Also-I'd heard the assertion that higher octane gas has fewer btus available, lower energy, so could lead to lower mileage. I don't know if true.
It all depends on how much the timing is being pulled to keep the motor from knocking, but I'm not sure how one can tell. If the timing isn't being pulled, the motor isn't trying to knock, so you wouldn't lose anything on lower octane.
(I finally found the UK vs US english setting that threw my OBC mileage so far off-imperial vs us gallons lol)
Also-I'd heard the assertion that higher octane gas has fewer btus available, lower energy, so could lead to lower mileage. I don't know if true.
It all depends on how much the timing is being pulled to keep the motor from knocking, but I'm not sure how one can tell. If the timing isn't being pulled, the motor isn't trying to knock, so you wouldn't lose anything on lower octane.
(I finally found the UK vs US english setting that threw my OBC mileage so far off-imperial vs us gallons lol)
...Also-I'd heard the assertion that higher octane gas has fewer btus available, lower energy, so could lead to lower mileage. I don't know if true.
It all depends on how much the timing is being pulled to keep the motor from knocking, but I'm not sure how one can tell. If the timing isn't being pulled, the motor isn't trying to knock, so you wouldn't lose anything on lower octane.
It all depends on how much the timing is being pulled to keep the motor from knocking, but I'm not sure how one can tell. If the timing isn't being pulled, the motor isn't trying to knock, so you wouldn't lose anything on lower octane.
Basically, "octane" dictates how much pressure the fuel can tolerate before it starts buring too quickly (aka detonation, aka knocking) when under pressure in the combustion chamber. Greater tolerable pressure means the ignition can happen earlier, resulting in greater pressure pushing the piston down. That causes more power to be generated by the engine for the same amount of fuel put into it, which is greater efficiency.
I've tested this in my MCS, 3 points of anti-knock rating equals a 3-5 mpg increase and offsets the greater cost per gallon of premium fuel. Not only is less gas being burned, but it also costs less money to make the car go over a fixed distance.
If you want more documentation about this, look around for aircraft engine texts. There are also engine manuals printed by Pratt & Whitney Aircraft Engines in the 1950's that are easy to read and go into a great detail about piston engine combustion and how to control it.
I don't know it as fact, but it's something I've heard. It may depend on how the octane is raised. Isn't it true that adding ethanol raises octane? Ethanol has fewer btus available for the same volume. It may not be true that premium and regular are exactly the same except for octane rating. Like I said, it's only something I've heard, but it might be interesting enough to look in to a bit...
I get better mileage with premium. But I wonder if there might be cases where this isn't true. With our motors, they change the timing and play with other parameters. But that may not be true for other motors.
I get better mileage with premium. But I wonder if there might be cases where this isn't true. With our motors, they change the timing and play with other parameters. But that may not be true for other motors.
That's not true: octane is a measure of how fast the flame front will move after ignition, given a set condition. It has nothing to do with the amount of energy contained in the fuel. Octane is actually an outdated term, the rating is called "anti-knock" these days. Octane comes from the WWII era, when the hydrocarbon "Octane" was added to slow the fuel's flame front speed.
Basically, "octane" dictates how much pressure the fuel can tolerate before it starts buring too quickly (aka detonation, aka knocking) when under pressure in the combustion chamber. Greater tolerable pressure means the ignition can happen earlier, resulting in greater pressure pushing the piston down. That causes more power to be generated by the engine for the same amount of fuel put into it, which is greater efficiency.
I've tested this in my MCS, 3 points of anti-knock rating equals a 3-5 mpg increase and offsets the greater cost per gallon of premium fuel. Not only is less gas being burned, but it also costs less money to make the car go over a fixed distance.
If you want more documentation about this, look around for aircraft engine texts. There are also engine manuals printed by Pratt & Whitney Aircraft Engines in the 1950's that are easy to read and go into a great detail about piston engine combustion and how to control it.
Basically, "octane" dictates how much pressure the fuel can tolerate before it starts buring too quickly (aka detonation, aka knocking) when under pressure in the combustion chamber. Greater tolerable pressure means the ignition can happen earlier, resulting in greater pressure pushing the piston down. That causes more power to be generated by the engine for the same amount of fuel put into it, which is greater efficiency.
I've tested this in my MCS, 3 points of anti-knock rating equals a 3-5 mpg increase and offsets the greater cost per gallon of premium fuel. Not only is less gas being burned, but it also costs less money to make the car go over a fixed distance.
If you want more documentation about this, look around for aircraft engine texts. There are also engine manuals printed by Pratt & Whitney Aircraft Engines in the 1950's that are easy to read and go into a great detail about piston engine combustion and how to control it.
There is some minor variation in energy content with octane in conventional non-ethanol fuel, but it can go either way (the high-octane fuel may have slightly higher or lower energy content), varies with the fuel brand, and it's generally not sigificant. (Gasoline is naturally-occuring substance and will be subject to natural variations in things like energy content.)
Ethanol is a whole different story as it has much less energy content than gasoline. Everything else being equal, you should be 3% lower gas mileage with E10 vs. pure gasoline.
Sorry, but on a stock engine running properly, there is simply no technical rationale that can explain 3-5 mpg increases in fuel mileage simply with a change in the octane rating of gasoline. Likely other factors are interferring. Because driving conditions vary so drastically and because of fill-up measurement error, you really have to average your mileage over a large number of tanks before you really can say much about anything.
- Mark
Ethanol is a whole different story as it has much less energy content than gasoline. Everything else being equal, you should be 3% lower gas mileage with E10 vs. pure gasoline.
Sorry, but on a stock engine running properly, there is simply no technical rationale that can explain 3-5 mpg increases in fuel mileage simply with a change in the octane rating of gasoline. Likely other factors are interferring. Because driving conditions vary so drastically and because of fill-up measurement error, you really have to average your mileage over a large number of tanks before you really can say much about anything.
- Mark
- Mark
Sorry, but on a stock engine running properly, there is simply no technical rationale that can explain 3-5 mpg increases in fuel mileage simply with a change in the octane rating of gasoline. Likely other factors are interferring. Because driving conditions vary so drastically and because of fill-up measurement error, you really have to average your mileage over a large number of tanks before you really can say much about anything.
- Mark
- Mark
I've seen plenty of engine analyzer data here at NAM that shows the ECU changing the ignition timing based on sensor data. If the ECU is keeping the ignition advanced as far as possible based on performance of the fuel, then the peak combustion pressure is determined by the fuel's anti-knock rating. Peak pressure determines power output, so the engine will generate more power at a given throttle setting due to higher combustion pressures allowed by premium fuel. This means it will take less throttle to generate the same horsepower when the engine is operated as less than full throttle. Less throttle means better gas milage, all else being equal.
You're correct in pointing out the large margin of error in any sort of mileage test. I tested this over 4 tanks of each fuel, but I'll have to re-do the test to see if I get repeatable results.
There is some minor variation in energy content with octane in conventional non-ethanol fuel, but it can go either way (the high-octane fuel may have slightly higher or lower energy content), varies with the fuel brand, and it's generally not sigificant. (Gasoline is naturally-occuring substance and will be subject to natural variations in things like energy content.)
Ethanol is a whole different story as it has much less energy content than gasoline. Everything else being equal, you should be 3% lower gas mileage with E10 vs. pure gasoline.
Sorry, but on a stock engine running properly, there is simply no technical rationale that can explain 3-5 mpg increases in fuel mileage simply with a change in the octane rating of gasoline. Likely other factors are interferring. Because driving conditions vary so drastically and because of fill-up measurement error, you really have to average your mileage over a large number of tanks before you really can say much about anything.
- Mark
Ethanol is a whole different story as it has much less energy content than gasoline. Everything else being equal, you should be 3% lower gas mileage with E10 vs. pure gasoline.
Sorry, but on a stock engine running properly, there is simply no technical rationale that can explain 3-5 mpg increases in fuel mileage simply with a change in the octane rating of gasoline. Likely other factors are interferring. Because driving conditions vary so drastically and because of fill-up measurement error, you really have to average your mileage over a large number of tanks before you really can say much about anything.
- Mark
I did an experiment last year when I took a trip to Colorado. I thought the hills would kill my mileage. But I got several mpg better overall by all the coasting downhill. I saved more on the downhills than used on the uphill portions so net gain. Thought it was weird...
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
It's been 3 decades, so don't quote me on this, but I think I routinely got about 36 mpg. That's without anyone (manufacturer or driver) having the slightest interest in fuel conservation. Gas was about 30 cents a gallon at the time.
Last edited by daffodildeb; Jan 12, 2009 at 07:58 PM.
I'm not recommending using regular fuel. To get full power you need premium. But just because premium is needed to make full power does not mean that premium burns any more efficiently at lower power settings, and unless you're on the autobahn or the track, the engine spends most of its time at very low power settings, seldom going over 25% power in typical steady-state driving. At these low power settings, the engine doesn't care a whit whether it is burning regular or premium.
- Mark
I did an experiment last year when I took a trip to Colorado. I thought the hills would kill my mileage. But I got several mpg better overall by all the coasting downhill. I saved more on the downhills than used on the uphill portions so net gain. Thought it was weird...
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
I was fairly careful and let momentum build up on downhills, allow momentum to carry me up part of the hill, let the speed drop some as I crested hills.
The whole time I was in Colorado in the hills I got better mileage than the flats.
- Bob
Just for the record, "altitude" is a term used to describe position in the atmosphere (above terrain or above sea level). "Elevation" is a term to describe your position on the ground, or the terrain itself. In Colorado, we lived at 7,000-foot elevation (above sea level), not altitude.
If your MINI is at 7,000' altitude, please post photos!
If your MINI is at 7,000' altitude, please post photos!
Last edited by corcoranwtnet; Jan 13, 2009 at 08:14 AM.
Yes, Mark, if the engine is using a fixed ignition timing, octane doesn't have an effect at partial throttle settings. I was under the impression that the Mini adjusts it's ignition timing more than it does, but I reviewed some of the engine data posts and I think you're right, this engine only retards the spark.
What gets me the worst is how little real technical data has been released for this engine. I'd love to know what all is going on with the variable valves, direct fuel injection and the such, but BMW-Mini is being really tight with that information. There's not even an aftermarket manual for the Gen 2's yet.
What gets me the worst is how little real technical data has been released for this engine. I'd love to know what all is going on with the variable valves, direct fuel injection and the such, but BMW-Mini is being really tight with that information. There's not even an aftermarket manual for the Gen 2's yet.
Yes, Mark, if the engine is using a fixed ignition timing, octane doesn't have an effect at partial throttle settings. I was under the impression that the Mini adjusts it's ignition timing more than it does, but I reviewed some of the engine data posts and I think you're right, this engine only retards the spark.
This may change as we get better computer control of more engine parameters, valve timing, and other engine parameters. Variable displacement may also encourage more aggressive octane adaptive strategies as engines which shut down cylinders tend to run the remaining ones at higher loads.
BTW, I'm not discounting that you're measuring better mileage when you use higher-octane fuel - just saying that some other factors are probably at play. Without extensive testing with a dyno, it's just damn hard to separate the factors affecting fuel mileage. Which plays into a lot of people able to sell some real snake oil.
- Mark
Just for the record, "altitude" is a term used to describe position in the atmosphere (above terrain or above sea level). "Elevation" is a term to describe your position on the ground, or the terrain itself. In Colorado, we lived at 7,000-foot elevation (above sea level), not altitude.
If your MINI is at 7,000' altitude, please post photos!
If your MINI is at 7,000' altitude, please post photos!
and temperature has the greatest effect (increases in humidity also reduces 'density', or amount of available oxygen).
At sea level, on a 95f day, your engine would perform as if it were at a 2300' elevation on a standard day
(standard temperature at sea level is 59f and at 2300' it would be 51f).
So, at a 7,000' elevation on a 95f hot day, (60f warmer than standard) you would compute a 'performance altitude' of 10,700'.
Since the actual temperature is more often higher than "standard" in most high elevation locations,
your MINI's power and fuel economy will usually act as if it were at a higher elevation
than your true elevation above sea level. (Turbo/Supercharging reduces performance 'hit' at higher elevations.)
__________________________________________________ _____________
In the days of timing lights and dwell meters, a little occasional spark knock (pinging) was acceptable unless pulling heavy loads or hills
and we knew that better fuel, (or a one degree reduction in spark advance would stop the ping and reduce performance).
Following the 'IKE' created fuel shortage, I was forced to use a tank of regular grade gas in my non-turbo Cooper,
I could detect no change in performance in normal driving.
I have the ScanGauge II installed and watching its gauge for ignition timing shows the spark advance to vary often and a lot,
but could never see any reduction due to detonation prevention.
- Mark


