2008 S Clubman.
Recently, I am having a cold start issue when it is approx 40 degrees or below outside, after sitting overnight.
It takes a start or 2 (yesterday it was 3), before the engine fires up, then it seems like it's not firing on all cylinders.
Then after about 15-30 seconds of doing this it revs to approx 1.5 to 2k, smooths out and idles normally.
After this, driving/performance is normal, no loss of power or strange idle.
I always run 93 octane and plugs and coil packs are less than a year old.
I also use Techron every few tanks.
Carbon cleaning (walnut shells) already done about 4k miles ago.
Any ideas on what would be causing this?
It really just seems cold related.

 

Usually these are the symptoms of a failing HPFP. I think you might want to check the fuel rail pressure to verify.
how many miles on the car?

 

Thanks for the reply.
68K miles on it.
So failing HPFP acts up when it's near freezing outside temps?
Seems strange.
Is it easy to test the fuel rail pressure?
Never done it, but I am mechanically inclined and have already done mild mods to the engine.

 

The easiest way is to look at the live data while starting the car.

There is an extended warranty on the HPFPs. I think it's a good idea to call the dealer to see if your car qualifies.

 

I have not run a scan yet since this started, but it's nice and cold out right now, going to scan now, I am sure it will have the issue.
I will also check with the dealer to see if the HPFP is covered.
Thanks again.

 

Agree on HPFP. Just got my Clubman back today. same issues, i.e. cold start, misfire, rough idle, stall. Restart and eventually get a smooth idle. Thought it was HPFP. Dealer said it was carbon buildup. Had it walnut blasted. Ran fine for one day then same symptoms, except could not feather throttle to increase idle. Felt like pedal was not connected. Called a tow and of course it fired up and ran. Dealer just replaced HPFP under extended warranty (already had it replaced under original warranty). Extended warranty is 10 years / 120,000 miles.

 

Thanks.
What year is your Clubby?
I emailed miniusa, they have my VIN, as I registered as the owner after getting it.
They said it wasn't covered.
I have not called the dealer yet, but will.
I do however have a HPFP, both fuel lines and the special tool for removing the fuel line on the way to replace it myself if needed.
I need to run another scan with the Foxwell, to get the fuel rail pressure, when cold.
When I checked the live data the other morning when it was cold, it acted really weird and appeared to put my car in limp mode(half engine symbol), so I stopped.
I checked the live data last night when I got home from work, after it was warm and the fuel rail actual value was at and sometimes a bit above what the set point value is.

 

My Clubman S is an '09, so just snuck under the 10 year limit on the warranty.

 

Had a hell of a time this morning starting.
Took about 6 tries to start, then started, sputtering, check engine light and stalled.
Did this 2 or 3 times.
Finally idled up to near normal.
Shut off engine and restarted.
No check engine and running normal.
Drove to work fine(short commute).
Got to work, connected the Foxwell and ran a Scan.
Finally, got a useful (non-misfire) code, 2880 High-pressure system.
Parts should be here in a few days and will be installing this weekend.
Update coming after the install.

 

Woot! fuel lines just arrived 2 days earlier than estimated.
Come on HPFP please do the same!

 

HPFP arrived today and looks to be good quality.
It's aftermarket, to get me by for now, but will likely replace with OEM when more funds are available.
HPFP going out at X-mas time= Not Cool.
Installing it, this weekend.
Might be adding a few performance parts that I have been waiting to install, since I will be in there anyway
Will update once the HPFP is in.

 

ClubmanG

You said you purchased an aftermarket pump.
Form who and manufacturer, and cost if possible

 

I got the $380 OSIAS pump that Bimmerdude recommends, off Ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/332348282777
I have the pump installed, but have yet to fire up the car, as the low pressure fuel line tabs broke when removing the line, I guess the 10 year old plastic just gave out.
It is recommended to replace both the low pressure and high pressure fuel lines when replacing the pump anyway, which I already bought with the pump.
Will be replacing the lines this weekend and will update after the install.

 

You mentioned low pressure fuel line. I only see the one fuel line. Is this the one you are talking about.
Wish to be prepared for what comes at me when doing the job!

Also an special tools?

 

Yes that is the low pressure fuel line in the picture.
The high pressure fuel line is the short metal one that goes from the pump to the fuel rail.
I bought the "special tool" for removing the low pressure fuel line, but the release tabs broke on the fuel line anyway, due to age/heat i think.
Poor design on that end of the line, and any fuel line, in my opinion.
**Rant- I am "old school" to where I don't like the plastic "quick disconnect" connections. I like at least a flared pipe screw type connector, like the high pressure line.
Since the tabs broke, I had to pry the line off the pump.
Needless to say, since both fuel lines are supposed to be replaced anyway,(to prevent leaks from reusing existing lines), I would not waste money on the "special tool".
There are numerous youtube videos on how to get the line off the pump to reuse the fuel line, without the "special tool" but that's not my style.
It is also recommended to replace the HPFP bolts when replacing the pump, not sure why, possibly from being torqued at the factory, removed and re-torqued, I got them as well.

This is my daily driver, so i am taking no chances.

 

OK, ClubmanG you jinked me! The little plastic clips broke on the fuel line. Replacing the hose. Got it off the pump side and was wondering how it unhooks from the fuel line

 

Sorry to hear the clips broke, this is likely why the lines are supposed to be replaced when the pump is.
The black plastic piece at the end of the low pressure fuel line is the built in removal tool.
Check this video at about 2:05 for how to disconnect the low pressure fuel line at the sub frame I had no issue removing the line.

Update on my install.
I have replaced the HPFP and both fuel lines, FYI it will take several start attempts for the fuel system to re pressurize and the car to start running, so be patient.
I also replaced the pressure converter, to fix the infamous "kazoo" noise.
For those unfamiliar with this, you can hear the noise here I saw a video about replacing it from the bottom, but it is mounted to the underside of the intake manifold.
I was also installing a cabin noisemaker delete pipe, so I opted to remove the intake manifold to do the job properly.

Everything has been torqued and re torqued after running.
No leaks detected so far and test drive went well.
Today is the real test as I will be driving the car to work.

 

Your the man!

 

Thanks, I help where I can.
It took me quite a while to find that video that actually had the sound, so I could compare it to the noise mine was making.
It's the exact same noise it was making.

So I drove the car to and from work today with no issues.
It is supposed to get down to like 38 degrees tonight so tomorrow will be a good test on the original cold start issue, although it was in the 40s when I left work this evening and I could already tell a difference; higher, more consistent idle when warming up.

Also, for those who question the cabin noise maker delete, it did increase boost pressure.
Prior to installing the delete pipe, at idle, boost pressure on my Scan Gauge II normally would show approx -11 or -10.
After the install it is regularly showing -9 or -8, not a big change, but that's roughly 2 PSI gained for removing a dumb "feature" that they ended up removing on the N18 engines anyway.