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Installed some Tail Light Bulbs, quite bright and they strobe which really catches your eye.
Links:
Daylight: http://imgur.com/gallery/5a38IA4
Night time: http://imgur.com/gallery/KdeSbFf
Also shopped around for some labor quotes for my parts, yikes average quote asking for 1500 for shocks, bushings, swaybar, and rib belt install guess I know what I'm doing with my next bonus.
Finally got to finish out the rear with proper LED bulbs and these bad boys consume the same watts (unlike others that use less watts to achieve equal lumens) as the halogen bulbs but are way brighter. The key is to pay attention to the watts of the bulb, the maximum LED efficiency as of now is 200 lumens a watt. A 3 watt LED is basically around the stock bulb. 21 watts like these are way better. Always check the milliamp draw and used a calculator to figure out watts of a led bulb product, assume 12 volts for obvious reasons.
Turn signals are bright as heck now wowzer!! With only one bulb in it triggered the computer but once both were in, it was fine. Research paid off, if anyone would like to see The LEDs sit at the same line as the filament being ignited in a halogen bulb, this is key. Having a reflector tip with LEDs with help throw alot of light out of the tail light housing, very key as well. This reverse light was the honest deal, actually bright as a star. Definitely can't miss me now
Alla Canbus Red Turn Signal Bulb
Boodlied 20w Bulb
Where did you get those bulbs from? Do you have a link to the product page?
Amazon, "Boodled 1156 bulb" for reverse and "Alla Canbus 1156 Red" for turn signal.
UPDATE: Rear Turn signal bulbs i got trigger the computer warning UNTIL you use them. Once you use your indicator the warning disappears from the system control.
First link should be the one, the one that has the keywords "4014 led" and "3600lumens" for the Boodled. I suppose the 3030 LED would be just as good since they are a more efficient LED but there is less of them. Either should work fine, the one i am using is the one with 4014 LEDs.
Thanks.
I ordered some.
With just the one reverse light on the R55,
the extra light will be welcome.
how many times has someone told you
”One of your backup lights is out!”
”No it isn’t “
”Yes it is”
”These cars only have one on the right, no left one”
”Are you sure, ... that doesn’t sound right”
etc.
They don’t really believe you unless you turn
on the rear fog on the left side to show them.
Thanks.
I ordered some.
With just the one reverse light on the R55,
the extra light will be welcome.
how many times has someone told you
”One of your backup lights is out!”
”No it isn’t “
”Yes it is”
”These cars only have one on the right, no left one”
”Are you sure, ... that doesn’t sound right”
etc.
They don’t really believe you unless you turn
on the rear fog on the left side to show them.
Ditto completely. Can't remember if I have the toggle switch for rear fog, will check when i go to work. My only gripe is no matter how much light you shove in it, it is never enough to really light up the entire rear path leading up to the car.
Noticed a curious thing today, the LEDs installed in the front map light locations are somehow getting just the tiniest of current enough to cause about 3-5 lumens of illumination when the car is off. Didnt drain my battery or anything after sitting for 10 hours. Also these are more crisp white than the slightly blue LEDs I have installed in the DRL spot.Will keep an eye out
The rear turn signals instrument lights inside the car hyperflash 3 cycles then return to normal the first time each is used after the car is started. There will be initial startup error about the rear turn signals, HOWEVER, since the problem resolves itself with normal use while driving I deem it negligible since both the error and hyperflash are resolved.
Blink Cycle Key:
0 = off
1= normal blink on
2 = hyperblink on (aka faster blink)
After startup on the first use of either individual side of the rear turn signal:
2 0 2 0 2 0 1 0 1 0...
Then the errors on the dash disappear from the dash and from the "check control" section and from the ecu as checked by an obd2 reader.
Got the Boodlied 1156 white 3600 lumen
bulbs for backup.
actually got the 1156 p21wy by mistake
instead of the 1156 p21w so I had to
file one of the nubs off.
Measuring with an incident light meter on
axis in a foot in front of the bare bulb, I
get over 2 stops brighter (4-5x) than a
regular 1156 (400 lm) and over 1 stop
brighter than a 796 (35w halogen - 700 lm),
so I figure these may be closer to 1800 lm
than 3600 lm.
However, they seem to have more off-axis
than a bare incandescent p21w, so it may
be more than 1800 lm measured differently.
I also measure about 850 mA instead of
the 1800 mA claimed per bulb.
Despite this, the bulb is a winner.
They’re still at least twice as bright as two
other LED 1156 reverse lights I have at home.
Happy to know I helped in some way. Lux meter puts them at a little over 1900 for me so thats where they are getting their 2000lumen on their chart, most likely the 3600 lumen rating comes from 2 bulbes together so about 3600 if we use your 1800 lumem measurememt
Updated the current parts list and also received a new intercooler last week. Opened her up today. This is a purely budget driven choice but i did some researching (not to self place thread link here) on the forums and bought a Wagner clone (sorry guys im frugal atm..). Bar and plate so yeah a little heavy but supposed to be within the performance range an upgrade would bring while being 1/3 the cost. One of the only few clone that has the correct mounting brackets Top tab looks super easy to trim off. The 4 bumps im assuming are for taps?
I have that same intercooler, and ended up cutting all the tabs and bosses off, and used the side mounting tabs to hold it in place. Been good like that for 3 years now.
I like to be fully transparent because information is scarce already for these cars. I know CAI do bupkis and even with a tune it's marginal at best. My reasoning was 1. CARB for my State and 2. Only kit that had a bigger intake tube going into turbo AND had the resistors for the pcv. Correct me if im wrong guys.
The Milltek was the only exhaust for the Clubman that had uniform 2.5 inch piping and had welds that looked good to me not to mention plenty of sound clips and has been confirmed by the community to hold up well. I checked each individual piece in the kit on their website. Paired with a 2.5inch downpipe it should be super smooth flow. Experimenting with catless first..and yes i did do a calculated exhaust build on raw materials and knowing a guy, price came out to within 100 bucks of the price of the Milltek so yeah go figure for me.
The GFB DV+ is for automatics only. I really love the idea of separating out the components into 2 and replacing the flimsy diaphram that usually breaks during high boost tunes with the plunger type system. Also take into account that the automatics are shyte when it comes to holding boost through any acceleration so i believe this should help alleviate this.
Also got the ARP Rod Bolts (201-6305) just for peace of mind that nothing will go flying out of the side of my engine. I know stock rods are good to 300hp and i doubt i will hit that...im sure something else would break before that anyway.
Lastly decided on an RPM Stage 3 tune from Mario. Just a matter of time till all the parts arrive and the work starts a flowing
Decided I might as well learn how to install some of my parts to save on the labor im paying a shop. I will have to pickup my stockpile of parts from storage. I'll start posting more pictures and installs. I doubt i'll tackle the suspension but who knows how ballsy i feel after air pipes, intercooler and an exhaust...still waiting for exhaust to ship out (wait is killing me ). Still waiting to get info about my suspension idea from the community here in this thread.
Emailed ECS and messaged them here inquiring about some part numbers so i can start dechroming the grill trim and other bits (clips, screws, bolts, push pins etc) i'll probably need when dealing with trim and bumpers. Curious is there a benefit or difference between the n18 LCI MINI S grill and a say R56 JCW grill?
Started thinking about splitters...this feels like a rabbit hole but i've decided on S4S splitters around for now. I genuinely don't feel the need to shell out for an Aero kit, rather invest that kind of investment in forging. Also decided on the Spyder F56 like headlights (xenon version) and thinking about the tron style LED tail lights for the Clubmans that are popular in Japan. Will probably order those in late fall/early winter. Looks like tune will be in October at this rate...tic tok tic tok.
Doing a little research into braces for Clubbies, so far I have found the TSW X Brace but it is no longer made, the M7 system but the general consensus is the rectangular tubing doesnt add any rigidity or strength, and lastly found a company in europe called Ultra Racing. Seems they have a plethora of underbody brace options!! I am going to send them an email tomorrow with some questions but boy do their brace pieces look legit! Not to mention white is a very different striking color. (Link here)
Looks interesting.
Wondering about installation details.
Would be less interested if it involves
inserts, drilling, spot welds, etc. like
the Weichers one I bought and sent
back did.
Word is that return of the WMW/TSW
Xbrace for R55-59 is in the works but
no firm date in sight and it will
probably be a while yet.
I may hold out for that.
I have an Ultra Racing rear tower brace in my Clubman. I “think” it added some rigid ness, but could be some placebo effect. They have two braces that tie up the underbody, but they charge a metric crap-ton for shipping.
I have an Ultra Racing rear tower brace in my Clubman. I “think” it added some rigid ness, but could be some placebo effect. They have two braces that tie up the underbody, but they charge a metric crap-ton for shipping.
I was looking at the 2 mid body braces and the top strut brace. Did your brace come with instructions and the required hardware? How much they want for shipping as they dont even list US as an option in the shopping cart. Waiting for a reply email from them.
I was looking at the 2 mid body braces and the top strut brace. Did your brace come with instructions and the required hardware? How much they want for shipping as they dont even list US as an option in the shopping cart. Waiting for a reply email from them.
No instructions or hardware were included, just the bar. It was a tight fit getting the bar in, but it’s in. I bought it off eBay, at a total cost of about $150.
03-24-2019, 02:12 PM
guess I know what I'm doing with my next bonus.
brighter. The key is to pay attention to the watts of the bulb, the maximum LED efficiency as of now is 200 lumens a watt. A 3 watt LED is basically around the stock bulb. 21 watts like these are way better. Always check the milliamp draw and used a calculator to figure out watts of a led bulb product, assume 12 volts for obvious reasons.
