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After driving the car for few hundred miles, I proved to myself this swap was a success...So, I decided to swap back the N14 on it after rebuilding it...here is some of that work starting at post #18
@MiniToBe Excellent work and very informative. One question on the engine harness adapter. At one point I thought you said all the wires were straight through between the different plugs. I thought another thread had a mention of adding two wires. Which is the correct way to make an adapter? Thanks!
You said you used a matching DME, CAS, and key fob, would I be able to re-use the one that already came with my car? I have a 2009 Clubman S with the n14 and I'm interested in putting an N18 in it. Thanks in advance.
You said you used a matching DME, CAS, and key fob, would I be able to re-use the one that already came with my car? I have a 2009 Clubman S with the n14 and I'm interested in putting an N18 in it. Thanks in advance.
The easy answer is no you cannot because yours is assigned and locked to your car and the donor ECU is locked to the other car.
The complicated answer is yes. You need to use special tools (I recently discovered) to "marry" the donor ECU to the host CAS. since this is N18 ECU, it has a second stage security code that the dealer only has and maybe other (still searching). This code needs to be entered into the ecu to enable the unlock the engine limiter.
Hello I am currently swapping a 2009 clubman s n14 with a 2011 Cooper s n18. I am running into the issue of the not being able to have it start do to the wiring harness not matching up. I have read your hole thread about your swap and was wondering if you still knew what wires you grafted over to make your new harness or if you still happened to have it. Any information about this would be greatly appreciated.
Hey there....I got your email and wanted to reply in the morning, but my direct swap without any wiring modification let me start the car as seen in my first videos. Later on, I realised that there were 3 or 4 wires that needed to be swapped located in the body side connector.
If the engine isn't starting then you have another issue. Did you just swap the ECU only or did you also swap the immobilizer and keyfob?
Hey there....I got your email and wanted to reply in the morning, but my direct swap without any wiring modification let me start the car as seen in my first videos. Later on, I realised that there were 3 or 4 wires that needed to be swapped located in the body side connector.
If the engine isn't starting then you have another issue. Did you just swap the ECU only or did you also swap the immobilizer and keyfob?
I am using a n18 ECU should I be doing anything else. both cars were running before the swap.
Another year and another swap. This time, I swapped the transmission, still from auto to auto, to the one that comes with the LCI models. Having gained more knowledge from my last swap, I will only modify the N18 ECU to work with the original CAS. The car was originally flooded and they seemed to have disconnected the fuel pump. only thing left now is connected the pump and rewiring the body side molex on the ecu.
Hey! Fantastic job getting the car all together & running! I’m about to get started on a swap in a 2008 Mini Cooper S. I’m getting an n18 motor, tranny, engine harness, ecu, CAS, keys & abs module to throw in my 08 from a 2013. Glad to hear there is no issues fitment wise but I am concerned about the wiring issue you had. I’ve gone over the thread a few times and I don’t see which wires needed to be added or moved, I just see you said 3 or 4 wires. Any chance you could shed some light on which ones? Thanks for any help & advice!
Hey! Fantastic job getting the car all together & running! I’m about to get started on a swap in a 2008 Mini Cooper S. I’m getting an n18 motor, tranny, engine harness, ecu, CAS, keys & abs module to throw in my 08 from a 2013. Glad to hear there is no issues fitment wise but I am concerned about the wiring issue you had. I’ve gone over the thread a few times and I don’t see which wires needed to be added or moved, I just see you said 3 or 4 wires. Any chance you could shed some light on which ones? Thanks for any help & advice!
This is where i started. If you can find the body side harness of the N18 and compare the two, that would also be good.
You don't need the ABS module. You also can get away with not needed the donor CAS and keyfob. I can get your ecu unlocked and you should be fine. At the time when i did this, i couldn't find anyone to support me. But I'm glad to have finally was able to do it 😬👍
Passed PA inspection 
04-16-2019, 01:51 PM
