R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+) Discussions revolving around the extended wheelbase Clubman (R55) model.

R55 Misfires #1 #3 &#4 cylinders No Compression #3 cyl

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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 06:05 PM
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Misfires #1 #3 &#4 cylinders No Compression #3 cyl

Well here I am. Still owe money on my 2010 Clubman S. (97000 miles) Now I'm facing an expensive shop bill or trying to off load the car or part it out. Let me go back and explain what happened:

I have had this car since new. I have had all the trouble a Mini owner can. Timing chain R/R, Water Pump R/R, Thermostat Housing R/R, Left Rear Club Door Latch R/R, Two (2) Carbon Cleans!

I finally fixed the door on my own and even changed all the rotors, pads and sensors. I'm thinking "OK if I can get through another two years that would be great." Then it happens...

On the way home with cruise control set and she stumbles...the engine light comes on...then the larger one on the tach comes on...the the engine light starts blinking...then goes to half power.

Now she is struggling, running rough at low rpms. I make it home cursing all the way and park her.

I got a code reader and got "Random multiple misfires" misfires on cylinder 1,3 &4. (I guess cylinder 2 got me home that night!).

I took her over to the shop I use and await the verdict...

Two days later and I'm told that cylinder #3 has "no compression". They took the valve cover off and said the valves were fine-not bent.

Then they say the problem must be in the bottom end of the engine. They seem to think the rings have sucked in and so no compression.

But here's my question:

How does no compression on cylinder #3 throw off a misfire code for cylinder #1,3 &4?

I have done some Forum research and see all the problems with the timing chain and guide rails. Can the timing chain skip a tooth on one cam or the other?

I'm thinking that if it could then the timing would be off thereby negating any results from a compression test.

The thing about this car is that I take very good care of it. I have it serviced, I keep it clean, I do not beat up on it. Why does it seem that BMW/Mini won't stand behind this engine package? I mean my wife owns a Range Rover-a vehicle that is supposed to be expensive to own and has had nowhere near the trouble I have had with this R55.

I have the car home now and I'm doing my own troubleshooting. I'm fairly mechanical myself so that's no problem. Aside from the compression check is there anything else you guys think I should be checking?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2016 | 08:31 PM
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If the car had jumped time you would have compression issues on all cylinders. Since it is on just one you have something in that cylinder that is the issue. To further diag you will need to remove the head. At that point it will get costly and if it is a piston/ring issue hope it hasn't damaged the cyl wall or head as that will warrant a new engine. Bad news is you will spend a bunch more on labor to get to that point only to find out it's junk.
I would seriously just consider a new engine for time and cost.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 07:21 AM
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A new engine is $5,500 plus labor! And because this is the N14 or whatever crap engine it was for 08-10 Minis a rebuilt is $4,500 plus labor. Maybe a good used on for around $2,500 but even with that, why would I try to keep this thing?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 08:27 AM
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They "think" the rings "sucked in"? That sounds pretty lame to me.
Do your own compression test, squirt some motor oil in #3 and see if the compression comes up. If does, it's rings, if not, it's valves. You could have a burned valve, that's cheaper to fix than a engine rebuild.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2016 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by DneprDave
They "think" the rings "sucked in"? That sounds pretty lame to me.
Do your own compression test, squirt some motor oil in #3 and see if the compression comes up. If does, it's rings, if not, it's valves. You could have a burned valve, that's cheaper to fix than a engine rebuild.
This is outstanding advice and I agree. Paying for an engine teardown is a costly affair depending upon who is doing the work.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 05:38 AM
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+1

since you are mechanically inclined, try to do the diagnosis by yourself and SEE the numbers.

make sure that the engine is at the correct timing to clear any doubts

If you do the engine rebuild yourself, it will cost you around $500 for valves, chain kit, HG, bolts. it is straight forward once you get the nose off.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 08:51 AM
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Updates?
 
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