A common failure condition of the 2007–2014 MINI Clubman is the left rear split-door doesn’t open — the latch just doesn’t unlatch. Sometimes it will unlatch, but then won’t re-lock itself when you push the door shut.

This turns out to be a very fast and simple fix! I’ve put together these instructions with diagrams (from the official MINI parts diagrams courtesy of realoem-dot-com). I think they’re complete but please let me know if anything is unclear or missing so I can improve them.


Parts and Tools Needed

• Lock for Split Door, Left – MINI Part number 51247167498 – this costs about $50. (It’s basically an overpriced solenoid.)
• Torx 30 driver — that’s the six-point star bit that BMW loves and are used throughout the MINI. If you do much on your MINI you should just get a full set of Torx keys.
• Thin flathead screwdriver for prying. (A trim panel tool works even better. I think ECS sells them for like $5.)

Overview

The split door lock is actually pretty easy to access. You will need to pull up the plastic panel that lies across the rear door opening. That will get you access to the two Torx bolts that secure the lock to the car’s body, so you can remove it. Then you just slide it out through a convenient hole in the body made for the purpose, then unplug it from the wire connector. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

EDIT: if the door is stuck shut, you need to open it. This thread can help: How to manually open the rear barn doors

Step by Step

1. Remove the Loading Sill Cover, which is part #9 on this diagram. it’s held in place with four plastic expanding rivets on the inside of the luggage compartment, and three plastic clips that we’ll just pull out. <br>
   
   1. Fold the flat-load floor back out of the way. Remove anything you have stored under it, as you’ll need to lift the actual bottom floor panel later.
      Remove the expanding rivets. Use your flathead screwdriver (or trim tool) to carefully pull out the center pin. (This will allow the shaft of the rivet to un-spread itself.) Then use the flathead screwdriver to pry underneath the edge of the rivet and work it out. This will require some force, so don’t be shy.
   2. Remove the bottom floor panel (part number 9 on the diagram), then with your fingers pull the bottom edge of the Loading Sill Cover (part number 7) forward the front of the car (away from you if you are standing outside the back of the car). You’ll need to clear the metal tie-downs that are secured to the car’s body. The cover is stiff but somewhat flexible; you won’t break it and you will need to use some force.
   3. As soon as you have cleared the tie-downs, shift to pulling straight up on the Loading Sill Cover. Pull hard. No, harder. The three plastic clips that hold it in position should pop free. (Sometimes they come loose from the cover and stay in the car. Pry them out with a screwdriver or trim tool, and slide them back into their slots on the Loading Sill Cover.) The hard part is now done!
2. Remove and replace the lock mechanism. Here’s a fresh diagram for you: <br>
   1. Unscrew the two Torx bolts (part number 2 on this diagram). They’re slightly stiff but shouldn’t be too hard to remove.
   2. The lock mechanism is now free. Reach into the body through an opening right behind it, and pull it out.
   3. Disconnect the wire harness connector. Throw out the P.O.S. lock that failed on you.
   4. Plug the new lock into the wire harness. Screw the lock mechanism back in; there is some side-to-side adjustability but I found just putting it dead center had it lined up correctly with the door. Tighten the bolts very firmly, but don’t go insane; these aren’t wheel bolts!
   5. Test the lock! Ensure the split door is correctly caught and locks, and that it unlocks when you squeeze the handle.
3. Put it back together:
   1. Re-install the Loading Sill Cover. Make sure the three white plastic clips are slid into their slots inside the Loading Sill Cover. Put in position, line them up into their holes and press down. Tip: To make the clips pop into position, you’ll probably have to give them each a good, solid whack with your hand. (The clips rarely break; if they do, they cost about $0.70 each.)
   2. Re-install the four expanding rivets. Remove the center pins from the expanding rivets. Push each rivet back into position, then insert the center pin and push it down.
   3. Make sure the rubber weather seal is OVER the Loading Sill Cover, not underneath it. I used a trim tool to lift the rubber seal up over the edge of the loading sill.
   4. Put the floors back. This is ludicrously simple, so I’m not describing it.
4. Enjoy a cool, refreshing beverage of your choice as you admire your handiwork.

 

Well done.

Here is the part 51247167498

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51247167498/

 

The dealer I bought ours from replaced that latch when we purchased it.

 

My left rear split door will not latch closed anymore. Is there anyway to test to make sure it is the latch/solenoid that is broken and not the handle release trigger? The right door still latches properly and the handle release makes a solenoid noise every time I press it. The left side no longer makes a noise. I'm trying to avoid buying the $50 latch when the issue is in the handle. Thanks

 

The symptoms you describe, of the left hand door not making a noise when you squeeze the handle, are the same ones I was experiencing. It also was an intermittent problem for a year or two before it finally gave up the ghost entirely, prompting me to replace it.

 

Just replaced my latch and thanks to your how-to I had the right part, it took me 15 minutes, and my doors are working again. Thank you so much!

And shout out to ECS Tuning for having the part with free shipping and cheaper than my local Mini dealership could order it.

 

Awesome! Glad it was a quick and simple task! I think it took longer to write up than to do. And I

 

Welcome

 

I'd been having a problem where the right door would (intermittently) not latch shut. It would just kind of bounce off the latch. I would click the FOB again as if to open the door, and then it would close. Then, last week, the left door wouldn't catch. I found your thread, problem solved and all is well again. Super easy! Thanks for your post!

 

Thanks bratling for your instructions. My passenger side barn door lock started to fail (couldn't open manually at all and could only unlock with the fob for a short time after the whole car was locked) so I ordered both locks from ECS Tuning. I wanted to replace the driver's side one preemptively as I could see that if that lock failed completely it would take some destruction of the loading sill cover from inside to spring it manually. The passenger side one can be sprung open if necessary by pulling the barn door inside panel away above the lock and reaching in with a narrow screwdriver. Both went in smoothly with the driver's side being a bit trickier since that loading sill cover was a struggle. But like you said, keep pulling and you will not break it. The outer two white clips stayed with the body for me but must be pried out and replaced on the sill cover. It pops back on a lot easier than getting it off.

 

I actually have the right hand latch sitting next to me right now. My wife came home last night saying her right door would not close. Found this article, along with some videos, on what to do. Thanks!
We were lucky, and the latch was stuck in the open position. The only thing I had to do was pick up a T-30 to remove it. A couple of notes for those who are going to do this: There is a rectangular access panel at the bottom of the plastic covering on the door. This is easy to remove with something flat (like a putty knife), but remove it from the back (side closest to the door). The side away from the door has longer tabs. Remove it and pull on the panel using the access hole from the center. There is a single snap-in pin that will release. Don't slide something in the edge and pull on the sides. It might work, but you might also crack the plastic. Remove the two T-30 screws and slide out the lock out through the metal opening in the middle of the door. Once it's out, you can disconnect the connector. A quick test to see if the solenoid inside the latch is getting hung up is to leave it connected and hold in the latch (don't worry, it won't pinch your fingers). You should hear the switch inside "click". The solenoid is supposed to hold the latch locked when the switch is closed. If it doesn't, try tapping on metal part of the switch while holding it in. If it then latches, the problem is the solenoid getting hung up. Pressing the door switch should release it. If it doesn't try tapping on it while holding that switch. If it then releases, the problem is definitely the solenoid. You really can't fix it, only replace the latch assembly, but at least you'll know what's wrong.

 

Thank you for taking the time to post such detailed instructions! I took your advice, ordered the part from ECS Tuning and it was here in less than a week (during Covid shipping delays, that is darn fast). I had made an appointment with my mechanic, but they didn't have the part in stock, so I was gonna be "carless" for awhile. Decided to do it myself, with your guidance. I lined up my Son, in case my hands weren't strong enough to pull off the loading sill cover. Turned out I could do it and I feel younger after the accomplishment (running joke, I am a 56 year old lady who works on her own mini).

My car is a JCW Clubman 2009, R55 and I want to keep it forever!