Does anyone know the approximate cost (parts & labor) for a 2008 clubman S oil housing gasket service? I paid $539. I can't help to think I was over charged. My mini was really leaking. Apparently this is a fairly common issue for Mini's.

Any input appreciated.
Thanks!

 

If I remember correctly I was quoted something like $1200 for it, largely because of the labor cost. They said it requires like 6-8 hours or something like that and at $120/hr it adds up. I ended up buying the Detroit tuned super turbo oil line kit that included turbo line, oil return line, oil filter housing gasket and just replaced them all myself. It was a pain in the bottom but I got it done in a weekend.

 

We never go in and replace just the filter housing gasket, if we need to replace the filter housing gasket or oil feed line we'll go in and replace multiple components that we include in our Super Kit.

The kit is $156 and we charge a flat labor rate of $450 to do the job plus coolant and cleaning supplies.

Detroit Tuned Turbo Oil Line Super Kit

 

I purchased Detroit Tuned's kit and installed it myself. Worked perfectly. Took me longer than four hours, but it was the first time for me and I didn't rush it.

OP: it doesn't appear that you were overcharged....it takes time to get into the seals. It would have been nice if they replaced some of the other things while they were in there....

 

Also did the DT Super kit last weekend on my 08 MCCS, and took way more than 4 hours. More like 14 hours including the time to put the front clip in Service Mode, which was a minor ordeal thanks to the shattering and replacement of the 14 fender clips that hold the black wheel arches in place. I could not figure a way to "release" them per the Bentley video. Well worth the trouble for me, even with a lift and air tools. I don't know how I would have gotten the front shield and down pipe/cat off with out the extra room provided. But I am also very careful and did a lot of cleaning. Highly recommend the DT Super kit. Just cut the V clamp. I wasted an hour trying to get it off, and ended up cutting it off with a side cutter. Only issue I really had with the DT kit was the walking/twisting of the hose fittings when tightening to the banjo bolts, which is a bit of a PITA because there is actually only small windows of clearance for proper routing. Nice quality parts. Plus draining the coolant and oil and refilling, etc. and cleanup...a long full day.

 

Perryinva - my head just exploded.

 

Yes, if I could have found some place reputable like Detroit Tuned to do the whole Super Kit for $450 or even $600, plus parts, it would have been well worth it. I don't know if they ONLY did your housing gaskets or not. If they did just that, what a waste! The dealership will only use OEM parts, and on my car, the oil feed line was leaking very slowly under the added shield on top of the turbo. That was literally the only actual leak I could see, but the entire bell housing, side of the oil pan etc etc was always wet with dripping oil. I lost about 1/4qt a month, so not real bad. If you ever work underneath these cars, that area is SO congested it is very difficult to trave where a leak is coming from. I had a "one hour free diagnosis" from the Mini dealer so I took it in. They came back with $2100 estimate for "leaking oil housing, oil feed line, and rear main seal". No description of actual parts to be replaced. I know they would not have replaced the return line and oil cooler gaskets which I did as part of the Super Kit. If you are already in there, do it once and be done! They didn't actually know any better than me what was leaking, they just guessed at everything and for that quote it would all be covered. My rear main seal is fine. Crazy on a car with less than 50k miles!

 

I also used the DT super oil line kit and did the labor myself. Took about 1.5 full days with a friend so 14-16 hours sounds about right. I was unable to place the car in service mode because the support bars were rusted together (thanks Wisconsin). For the V Clamp I torched it and just brute force twisted it off because it was so rusted. Those fender clips are tricky though, I think I may have broken a couple but I didn't take off the whole fender trim, just peeled it back enough to expose the torx bolts underneath.

If you have a buddy or two the process isn't too bad. It's a long process but you won't really have a problem, all the bolts are pretty standard sizes like 10mm, 8mm, or 13mm. For the lower dp heatshield it helps a ton to have a friend stabilize your socket wrench from the top while you wrench from underneath.

 

Air tools are a godsend. It's not really impossible or difficult, its just a lot. Like "Hey, lets design this car so the parts that leak will always require hours of removal of stuff around it. ". Just like the effing thermostat housing, which In Replaced in January. Or the heater core in most cars. Since I have a well equipped garage and other vehicles to drive, timenis not critical for repair of one. That helps.

Tough about the rusted main supports. The Service Mode made it ton easier. Mine slid right on off. And I just went and bought 20 clips and some plastic expander bolts for the liner too, maybe $18 in parts. I'd hate to see what your tie rod ends look like. After my last tire set replacement and alignment, the garage told me they needed to be replaced if the car ever needs another alignment. The adjusters and threads are rusted too much they said.

 

Well, I sold the car so I don't have to worry about that anymore and I'm living in California now instead of Wisconsin, where the amount of rust will hopefully be close to zero! I sold it before moving and now have a 2013 JCW that's virtually new, with 9k miles. I'm hoping I won't have to do the same repair on this car. It has the N18 engine so I'm crossing my fingers.

 

You'll have to do it eventually, but we are doing these oil leak fixes on a ratio of 10 N14 cars to 2 N18 cars.

 

REALLY???!!! Where are the leaks on the N18 engines??

 

They're not as bad as the N14's, but you'll still have oil leaks from the TOL eventually, oil filter housing gasket, crank seal, oil pressure control solenoid on the back of the engine (you'll want to fix that sooner than later, it will pump pressurized oil through the harness to the DME and leave you out over $4000), valve cover gasket, but like I said; the N18 is a bit more refined of an engine over the N14.

 

It took me 14 hours to install the Detroit Tuned super kit (oil supply line, oil drain line), oil filter housing gaskets, and heat exchanger gaskets on my R55. I used service mode also and had no significant issues. I was even able to get all the downpipe/cat heat shield bolts back in place. I highly recommend the DT kit.

 

Oof, I was hoping most of these leaks would be gone in the N18. Well I'm hoping with only 10k miles on the car, I will have some time before these problems arise. At the same time, my warranty expires next October so maybe I want them to appear before then...i have the extended maintenance program until 2019 but I know this wouldn't be covered

 

What oil pressure solenoid on the back of the engine? Where is that located on the N14? The DT site doesn't show a tutorial for it.

 

There isn't an oil pressure control solenoid on the N14, only on the N16 and N18, which are the LCI engines that came after 2011.

On the N16/18 the control solenoid is behind the lower engine mount bracket, if you haven't had the fix done yet you'll know right away as to which harness it is that needs fixed.

 

Finally! An engine oil leak I DON'T have to worry about!

 

Nkfry, I have a 2011 MCCS with N18. The oil control solenoid is inside the oil pan. Two separate wires (not bundled or housed in a sheath) lead from the solenoid to the grommet that takes the wires out of the engine block. No possible way for the oil pump to force oil up a wiring harness. Was there a change to the design over the years?