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I had a plastic shroud break on the front of the motor and need to buy a replacement. The parts guy at the local mini can't identify the part. It sits above the water pump and is attached to the front left side of the engine. Mine broke and is flopping around. Thanks!
Turns out the shroud is covering the positive battery cable. Sorry for the non-response I had a short window to get to the dealer. They want $249!!!! They don't sell the darn part separately. Plus, the water pump drive wheel is damaged, $58. I'm hoping the friction assembly isn't damaged as well
On another note, I can only lift the engine so far and access is limited. Has anyone else disconnected the lower engine mount as well to get greater access? Thanks.
On another note, I can only lift the engine so far and access is limited. Has anyone else disconnected the lower engine mount as well to get greater access? Thanks.
I've never worked on that part of the engine myself, but I thought you were supposed to remove the front passenger wheel and inner liner to access it. Have you already done that?
Yes, I've got the front passenger side inner wheel liner off. The front core support removed and the cold side turbo tube. I've also removed the front motor mount and have jacked up the engine. I watched a video on YouTube with some good tips but they indicated that "you'll be surprised how much you can jack up the engine" to improve access. Ostensibly, the video was about changing the water pump. I need to change the drive wheel as it is damaged and I want to assess the friction assembly (drive belt idler assembly) for damage as well. Access to those items is extremely inhibited by the inner wheel arch and was hopeful that one could lift the engine high enough to get somewhat clear access. Dropping the engine would be another option if I weren't working off the garage floor. Anyone with experience to share would be welcome. Thanks!
The Pelican how to says you need to support the engine with a jack and piece of wood, remove the upper engine mount, then you can lower the engine. The photos show a significant improvement in access to the front of the water pump friction wheel.
EDIT: Sounds like you need to lower the engine which probably means the front of the car needs to be jacked up higher (and supported on jack stands of course).
I am dreading doing this job when my water pump fails. I'll probably replace the water pipe and thermostat at the same time. I'm already on my second thermostat but original water pump.
The worst part is I had a BMW certified mechanic do this work last September! Parts are missing, bolts somewhat loose. I can't tell what broke first and the labor rates are extensive. What I do know is they didn't replace the positive battery cable and they'd blame that and charge me for labor plus parts (parts and labor guaranteed on the work they did). I figured I'd do it myself since I can't keep paying yahoos to do shoddy work. Tired of that.
My car just crossed 65000 miles. At 55,00 last fall it spent 3 weeks at the repair place getting a timing chain, guide, oil pump chain, thermostat housing, new belt, tensioner, friction assembly and water pump. to be fair, the water pump and thermostat went first. The next week the chain guide went fowling all the rest. This car had never been abused or raced in any way. Just unreliable. Now the work that was done appears to have been partially redamaged from a plastic housing holding the battery cable failing. Ugh! Figured if I'm keeping the car I'd just do my own work from now on. I already own the tools and have worked on past cars. The challenge here is its a Mini! Space is extremely limited.
Yep, not much space and a lot of heat I think causes some plastic parts like the thermostat housing to crack and the turbo oil supply line oring to leak. I've also resolved to work on my own 2009 MINI Cooper Clubman S as much as possible and keep it a long time. I bought the car used with 42,000 miles on it. Now at 68,000 miles.
For me:
Timing chain, guides, tensioner 45,000 miles (warranty).
High pressure fuel pump 55,000 miles (warranty), and paid for intake valve walnut shell blast cleaning.
Thermostat/housing 60,000 miles (out of pocket).
Auto transmission fluid, filter, spark plugs 60,000 miles (out of pocket).
Turbo oil supply line 65,000 miles (did myself).
Turbo oil drain line, oil filter housing gaskets, heat exchanger gaskets, vacuum pump, as preventative maintenance 65,000 miles (did myself).
Diverter valve 67,000 miles as preventative maintenance (did myself).
It took me 14 hours to replace the turbo lines, gaskets, and vacuum pump. With all the recent maintenance I do feel like I should have some trouble free miles ahead, I hope!
Yes, alot of that sounds familiar. I haven't had to do anything with the turbo charger, yet. The car isn't impossible to work on, just tight quarters. Here in the desert the plastic parts don't hold up very well. I've got a manual so I'm just waiting for the $3000 clutch bill too. They are fun to drive when working well!!! In fact, I was going to upgrade the suspension this past weekend. I just bought a Pro-Plus Kit from Eibach and a complete polyurethane set from Powerflex USA. I was told it's time to do the lower control arm bushings which is why I'm doing the upgrade now. I'll do it all at once. After that, the exhaust is likely next then the intercooler and finally a tune. I appreciate your advice Steve!
I've got a Helix intercooler, Alta Accessport tune, Powerflex LCA bushings, and Eibach front and rear sway bars. All very worthwhile upgrades. Also a front strut tower brace, which I personally cannot tell a difference with.
Nice! I'm planning on having mine tuned by a local company, Eurotechs in Tempe. They're well known around here. I'm considering a Borla exhaust and a Wagner intercooler. Already have the AEM intake and the strut brace i'm on the fence about. I upgraded the spring on the diverter valve which was great bang for the buck. Also tempted by a Rennline pedal set and a Tyrolsport short shifter mechanism. One thing at a time, however.
No, its not a cover. It is a housing or shield that attaches the positive battery cable to the engine block and keeps it above the water pump drive wheel. I was able to buy a salvaged positive battery cable from eBay for $57 delivered. Just waiting for it to be delivered. The plastic shield isn't sold separately which is a real bummer since all plastic parts degrade over time. I assume mine was damaged when the drive wheel lost a 2" chunk. Still trying to figure out how that would happen other than poor quality (it wasn't a BMW part). Thanks for the thought though!
