R55 2011 Clubman S feels like running on 2 cylinders.
#1
2011 Clubman S feels like running on 2 cylinders.
Hello, newbie here. Need some help.
57000 miles, new car to me. Saturday drove about 50 miles everything fine. Sunday run to local store and under moderate acceleration cel comes on, loss of power.
Get home, disconnect battery, code clears and test drive OK until hard acceleration. Code does not clear this time. Code reader had MIS fire cyl. 1,3. Swapped coils cel still on and now random misfires.
Changed plugs but old ones looked fine.
It starts fine and idles relatively fine but loss of power when adding throttle.
Any thoughts? Does the intake valve problem gradually cause power loss or can it be sudden?
I am going to change coils but I am pretty sure mine are fine.
No history with car so that doesn't help.
57000 miles, new car to me. Saturday drove about 50 miles everything fine. Sunday run to local store and under moderate acceleration cel comes on, loss of power.
Get home, disconnect battery, code clears and test drive OK until hard acceleration. Code does not clear this time. Code reader had MIS fire cyl. 1,3. Swapped coils cel still on and now random misfires.
Changed plugs but old ones looked fine.
It starts fine and idles relatively fine but loss of power when adding throttle.
Any thoughts? Does the intake valve problem gradually cause power loss or can it be sudden?
I am going to change coils but I am pretty sure mine are fine.
No history with car so that doesn't help.
#3
Sounds like the high pressure fuel pump going bad. Check out this thread on a 2010 with N14 engine. I listed some of the check engine codes I got when the HPFP started failing on my 2009 Clubman S. I imagine the codes and symptoms would be similar. I don't know if the 2011 has the same extended warranty on the HPFP.
#4
Codes returned the 1st time were the p0301 and p0303. After swapping coils came back with random misfires. No other codes listed.
In neutral, it starts ok, idles, does not stall and if revved, it is rough till about 3000 rpm then acts like there is a rev limiter and further pedal does not raise rpm.
So something is killing spark or fuel.
In neutral, it starts ok, idles, does not stall and if revved, it is rough till about 3000 rpm then acts like there is a rev limiter and further pedal does not raise rpm.
So something is killing spark or fuel.
#5
Forgot to paste the URL earlier. Check post 3:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-70-000-a.html
Error codes due to faulty HPFP on my 2009 Clubman S:
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
Engine would stumble and stutter then die when trying to start it hot.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-70-000-a.html
Error codes due to faulty HPFP on my 2009 Clubman S:
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
Engine would stumble and stutter then die when trying to start it hot.
#7
Not sure on the carbon clean, I plan to take a look at that if nothing else for curiosity sake. I have access to a snake video cam so why not.
Also just watched a good Benteley video that describes the procedure for testing hpfp. Looking for 5 bar in the in the in tank fuel pump and held for 15 minutes. For the fuel rail and hpfp should be 5 bar at idle. May need to take that in as don't have the diag tool.
What funny is the added warranty goes to 2009 models. For this to fail at 57k (if it is) seems a bit early.
Also just watched a good Benteley video that describes the procedure for testing hpfp. Looking for 5 bar in the in the in tank fuel pump and held for 15 minutes. For the fuel rail and hpfp should be 5 bar at idle. May need to take that in as don't have the diag tool.
What funny is the added warranty goes to 2009 models. For this to fail at 57k (if it is) seems a bit early.
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#9
i had the EXACT same issues. I swapped out with a set of pluggs from AutoZone, not better. Brought it to the dealer (it still under CPO), they determined it was bad plugs (still) and put in OEM MINI and the problem was solved. So I would buy some decent plugs and try that.
BTW I also have a 2011 Clubman S.
Also, where are you located? I just bought a reader (Carly coder), so if your around Morristown, NJ i could help you out.
-Will
BTW I also have a 2011 Clubman S.
Also, where are you located? I just bought a reader (Carly coder), so if your around Morristown, NJ i could help you out.
-Will
#10
i had the EXACT same issues. I swapped out with a set of pluggs from AutoZone, not better. Brought it to the dealer (it still under CPO), they determined it was bad plugs (still) and put in OEM MINI and the problem was solved. So I would buy some decent plugs and try that.
BTW I also have a 2011 Clubman S.
Also, where are you located? I just bought a reader (Carly coder), so if your around Morristown, NJ i could help you out.
-Will
BTW I also have a 2011 Clubman S.
Also, where are you located? I just bought a reader (Carly coder), so if your around Morristown, NJ i could help you out.
-Will
Yea I put in Bosch or Denso Iridium. About $12 each. The old ones had a light tan color and I was surprised that with the misfire one or more didn't show signs of carbon. Definitely not running rich!
For now, my next steps are:
Replace coils, (already had on order)
Scope Intake manifold
Check fuel tank fuel pump pressure.
That way when if I take into stealer we can rule those out.
What fails in the hpfp and are they rebuildable? I work in the electric utility field and the ancient stuff we rebuild is amazing.
#11
I am in the same boat. Took my stumbling '08 Clubman to the dealer and they handed me back an estimate for $4600 AND then they would continue their diagnosis. They suggested valve cleaning, I had done it a month before brining it in. They said my timing belt was visibly worn (80K on the OD) and should be replaced - I just replaced it when I did my timing chain a few months ago. I suspected the HPFP but hey said it was not below 3 bars which is the threshold for replacement under the new warranty.
Part of the cost was replacing the oil filter holder gasket and the water pump. I replaced my thermostat when it cracked. I have also purchased the AT filter and gasket.
But it is the not running that has baffled me. I smell gas out the exhaust when I start the car and it runs like normal for a few seconds then chugs down to one cylinder (seems like) and dies.
Looked that the plugs (2K miles on them) and two were perfectly clean (white porcelain) as if they had not seen combustion, but I could see some heat signature in the metal tip. Anyone know if I can pull them out and with spark plug in condenser tube, turn it over and look for a spark? Would need to be grounded.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
Part of the cost was replacing the oil filter holder gasket and the water pump. I replaced my thermostat when it cracked. I have also purchased the AT filter and gasket.
But it is the not running that has baffled me. I smell gas out the exhaust when I start the car and it runs like normal for a few seconds then chugs down to one cylinder (seems like) and dies.
Looked that the plugs (2K miles on them) and two were perfectly clean (white porcelain) as if they had not seen combustion, but I could see some heat signature in the metal tip. Anyone know if I can pull them out and with spark plug in condenser tube, turn it over and look for a spark? Would need to be grounded.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
#12
I am in the same boat. Took my stumbling '08 Clubman to the dealer and they handed me back an estimate for $4600 AND then they would continue their diagnosis. They suggested valve cleaning, I had done it a month before brining it in. They said my timing belt was visibly worn (80K on the OD) and should be replaced - I just replaced it when I did my timing chain a few months ago. I suspected the HPFP but hey said it was not below 3 bars which is the threshold for replacement under the new warranty.
Part of the cost was replacing the oil filter holder gasket and the water pump. I replaced my thermostat when it cracked. I have also purchased the AT filter and gasket.
But it is the not running that has baffled me. I smell gas out the exhaust when I start the car and it runs like normal for a few seconds then chugs down to one cylinder (seems like) and dies.
Looked that the plugs (2K miles on them) and two were perfectly clean (white porcelain) as if they had not seen combustion, but I could see some heat signature in the metal tip. Anyone know if I can pull them out and with spark plug in condenser tube, turn it over and look for a spark? Would need to be grounded.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
Part of the cost was replacing the oil filter holder gasket and the water pump. I replaced my thermostat when it cracked. I have also purchased the AT filter and gasket.
But it is the not running that has baffled me. I smell gas out the exhaust when I start the car and it runs like normal for a few seconds then chugs down to one cylinder (seems like) and dies.
Looked that the plugs (2K miles on them) and two were perfectly clean (white porcelain) as if they had not seen combustion, but I could see some heat signature in the metal tip. Anyone know if I can pull them out and with spark plug in condenser tube, turn it over and look for a spark? Would need to be grounded.
Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated.
#13
Wow, if the techs are repairing all those systems the tolerance for failure in any one system affecting another is astronomical.
I will give recurrent updates what I find. Will put new coils in today.
What is interesting and unfortunate on most mini blogs as compared to other vehicles is on others there is excitement on doing this or that mod or interesting info. On the mini blogs it is broken this, broken that, towed again, in shop. Any joy is substituted with running on the edge of breakdown. My impression is for a relatively cheap car, they pushed the technology envelope, threw it all in then went to low bidder. We've stepped back as technology should run these car 100 to 200k miles with general maintenance. Major components failing less then 50k miles is ridiculous. Sorry bout the rant.
Any way what is ironic on all the problems is the general similarities. Mine runs but I don't have the stalling as others have.
Will keep you up to date. Peace out.
I will give recurrent updates what I find. Will put new coils in today.
What is interesting and unfortunate on most mini blogs as compared to other vehicles is on others there is excitement on doing this or that mod or interesting info. On the mini blogs it is broken this, broken that, towed again, in shop. Any joy is substituted with running on the edge of breakdown. My impression is for a relatively cheap car, they pushed the technology envelope, threw it all in then went to low bidder. We've stepped back as technology should run these car 100 to 200k miles with general maintenance. Major components failing less then 50k miles is ridiculous. Sorry bout the rant.
Any way what is ironic on all the problems is the general similarities. Mine runs but I don't have the stalling as others have.
Will keep you up to date. Peace out.
#14
Status update. Good news. Put the new coils in and she started and ran normal. Initially still had the tach yellow half engine but that went away.
Drove her 13 miles on back roads and 99% good. Under hard acceleration would get a brief burp as if a cylinder did not fire.
Still have the speedometer cel light on (steady) and would not clear with the 3 driving cycles. Will find a shop with a smart diagnostic to try and read/clear codes.
Still plan to check intake for crud.
Drove her 13 miles on back roads and 99% good. Under hard acceleration would get a brief burp as if a cylinder did not fire.
Still have the speedometer cel light on (steady) and would not clear with the 3 driving cycles. Will find a shop with a smart diagnostic to try and read/clear codes.
Still plan to check intake for crud.
#16
Hi guys...new to this forum....i am having the same issues with my 2011 S clubman....bucks when i hit the gas hard.....changed the plugs..then changed the coils (same as yours)...then i changed the air filter and cleaned the mass airflow sensor.....same issue!!! getting a bit upset...car has 35k on it and i have had it for like 2.5 months....took it to a mechanic, he said i was doing the right things...then he suggested an oil change and better plugs?? (340.00)....still the same....considering a sea foam intake decarbonization ...any thoughts?? i have a tool to check and erase the codes (usually P302/301) after i erase it resets and drives fine under easy acceleration......
thanks
tim
thanks
tim
#17
Hi guys...new to this forum....i am having the same issues with my 2011 S clubman....bucks when i hit the gas hard.....changed the plugs..then changed the coils (same as yours)...then i changed the air filter and cleaned the mass airflow sensor.....same issue!!! getting a bit upset...car has 35k on it and i have had it for like 2.5 months....took it to a mechanic, he said i was doing the right things...then he suggested an oil change and better plugs?? (340.00)....still the same....considering a sea foam intake decarbonization ...any thoughts??
thanks
tim
thanks
tim
#19
Seafoam isn't gonna cut it. You need to either pick and scrape or walnut shell blast the intake valves. The OE plugs are very good and should last to at least 60,000 miles.
Yes a faulty high pressure fuel pump gave a check engine light and error codes on my 2009 Clubman S as checked with Accessport:
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
As dirty as my intake valves were they were, it was the HPFP causing misfires, not the valves.
Yes a faulty high pressure fuel pump gave a check engine light and error codes on my 2009 Clubman S as checked with Accessport:
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P2781 Misfire Mult Cyl Max
P2779 Misfire Cyl 4 Max
P277D Misfire Cyl 2 Max
P2783 Misfire Mult Cyl Error
P277B Misfire Cyl 4 Error
P277F Misfire Cyl 2 Error
P2773 Misfire Cyl 1 Error
As dirty as my intake valves were they were, it was the HPFP causing misfires, not the valves.
#21
I will be pulling my intake next week, will let you know results.
What's interesting on the hpfp issue is no one seems to get a low pressure fuel rail fault code. I would think with the pump problem it would pop up if it is leaning out the engine by a couple bar.
Will be checking O2 sensor as that may be gummed up with it running on two cylinders.
What's interesting on the hpfp issue is no one seems to get a low pressure fuel rail fault code. I would think with the pump problem it would pop up if it is leaning out the engine by a couple bar.
Will be checking O2 sensor as that may be gummed up with it running on two cylinders.
#24
Status update. Check engine light in speedo was still on so I purchased a obdll scanner from harbor freight. With 20% off $100. Wanted to reset codes.
Reset the codes and drove it hard to see if they would return. Ran great and no codes and none pending. So just by changing coils it seems I solved the problem. Go figure, time will tell.
The Centech scanner had a lot of cool features. One of interest was the real time data. It takes freeze frames of data during test drive. Couple of cool data points at 100% load:
High pressure fuel rail 1628 psi (no wonder they fail)
Boost 28 psi (14.7 is atmospheric)
Intake air temp 93 F. Outside air 51F (40 degree rise from turbo compression)
I would recommend the scanner. Nice to read your own codes without limping to parts store.
Reset the codes and drove it hard to see if they would return. Ran great and no codes and none pending. So just by changing coils it seems I solved the problem. Go figure, time will tell.
The Centech scanner had a lot of cool features. One of interest was the real time data. It takes freeze frames of data during test drive. Couple of cool data points at 100% load:
High pressure fuel rail 1628 psi (no wonder they fail)
Boost 28 psi (14.7 is atmospheric)
Intake air temp 93 F. Outside air 51F (40 degree rise from turbo compression)
I would recommend the scanner. Nice to read your own codes without limping to parts store.