Hey guys, what's up new here to mini scene and I currently just inherited a 2009 mini cooper clubman s (r55) I have been doing a good bit of research trying to figure out why the car currently is producing zero boost. Or as it seems. I have briefly inspected the turbo and the bearing feels fine and turbo looks in fairly great condition. No current check engine light but one did come on in "sports" mode showing half engine power but didn't stay on long enough for me to hook it up to my obd2 reader. If anybody has ever experienced this problem or knows what I could check to try and get this thing running full potential because I would love to enjoy the full experience my mini cam give me on the road. Thanks a bunch guys I look forward to hearing from anybody plz 😔😒😧😄

 

You should still be able to read codes. Do you have a code stored? Some codes need a BMW specific reader

 

Well you see originally when I first got the car it did have codes. I plugged in my code reader but no codes were present? And the check engine light came off. I did not clear codes or anything and tryed checking stored codes but also none were present. I recently just tryed to start the car with no intake hooked up just to make shure the turbo does spool and in fact it does. But it feels like it's making literally 1/2 psi. No shift play what so ever nothing to make me think that the turbo is faulty. I'm thinking of running up to the auto parts store to get a boost Guage just to see what I'm actually making.

 

Get a odb2 wifi or Bluetooth module and a smart phone app to read boost and other parameters. If you have an iPhone get the app Dashcommand and wifi (can't do Bluetooth with an iPhone) if you have an android device use the app called Torque.

Make sure all the boost tubes are on tight, especially the ones mating with the intercooler. It could also be a fault waste gate for diverter valve. These things should throw a code most of the time.

 

Second on dash command. It reads codes too

 

You will need a good code reader , some readers dont show all the stored codes, then double check all the connection, looks for cracks and air leaks.

BMW MINI Code reader;

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-q-and-a.html

 

Okay so my real time diagnostic tool came in set it up threw my phone all that good stuff. Like a dummy I didn't read the codes (in a rush for work) but I managed to set up my vacuum/boost reading and a couple other things and In a second gear pull I got up to 10 psi of boost and I really felt it kick in (first time ever feeling the boost) felt great. But I tryed doing it in a first gear pull from a stoplight. And bairly made 0.5 boost. Slammed second and yet still making very little boost. So I eased off and drove home to get ready for work. I will read codes out as soon as I get the chance. But it's very odd that I got up to 10 pounds of boost but again went back to producing zero boost. I am mechanically inclined and would love to take this on myself. But this is my first ever mini cooper and I know little to nothing about the car and I'd like to take it to a shop but I can imagine that costing an arm and a leg because almost every part up under the hood is stamped with bmw.

 

If you have trouble codes try and get those read.

You say that you do not have a half engine light displayed on the tachometer?

Check the vacuum line that runs to the waste gate. Also wiggle the rod for the waste gate. You will need to remove the heat shield to inspect these throughly.

Intermittent boost should throw a implausible trouble code but you never know.

It could possibly be the solenoid return valve. Can't quite remember the actual name. But when that fails it will not always throw a code.

But I'm leaning toward diverter valve or waste gate failure. It's going to take a large leak to have zero boost. I'd start with the diverter valve. If you have a stock intake it is hard to hear it venting.

 

Okay so I've tryed multiple times resetting the cel light but ever time it comes on and I try to pull it up it tells me no active codes are presented nore in my history. But there is a check engine light half yellow half not. I'm getting about 7.9 psi of boost at about 5k rpm in second gear from a 2k rpm/ 20 mph roll(gas pedal floored) slowly builds up boost and maxes out at 7.9 at 5k rpm. And this is only when I have cleared the code. As soon as I reach about 4.5- 5k rpm I have lost almost all boost and the check engine light comes on (half power. My vacuum is 20-23 at idle. I have reset the check engine light plenty of times and have tryed to check it plenty of times but it tells me there is no codes stored but there is clearly a (half power) indicator and once it comes on I produce almost no boost i.think maby 2 psi max in half powrr mode I am completely stumped and I really appreciate the feedback guys I will check any and everything yall think I should. I'll get on to inspection my turbo tomorrow make shure everything looks as it should.

 

You have normal vacuum for a N14 engine at idle.

The trouble codes may be proprietary BMW and you will need a special reader. If you don't want to buy one then maybe a independent shop will read them for a few bucks.

Pull out the diverter valve, it's easy to do, it is attached to the cold side of the turbo. IIRC, you will need a 5mm Allen wrench preferably on a 1/4" socket that is 4-5 inches long. There are 3 screws and one electrical connector. Once it is out, inspect the diagram for damage and make sure that it is not sticking. The diverter is relatively inexpensive to replace.

If that is good then I would suspect the waste gate which I don't believe is serviceable but you may be able to get the turbo rebuilt for under $600. Not terribly hard to remove and send out to a specialist. But check the vacuum connection first. The MINI waste gate is opposite of most other cars and is held closed with vacuum, so if the connection tubing is cracked then you will have issues that you describe. Cheap fix may be you will be lucky.

 

You genius you, that totally blew past my mind but I was meaning to check that last week because I have ready many cases where the DV valve can dry rot and Crack up causing it to fail. And shure enough I have already had dry rotting issues with my intake that connects the the lip of the turbo complete cracked in half and felt like hard brittle plastic instead of it being soft rubbery and squishy so I had to take a razor knife cut off the dryrot and luckily enough I still had Room to pop the intake back on without having to MacGyver anything and still sealed perfectly just had to tighten down the clamp a little excessively. Hopefully I have enough daylight after work to inspect it and post up some pictures of what it looks like. 😄😄😃👊👌👍

 

You genius you, I have ready many post of people having trouble with the diverter valve dry rotting/cracking and shure enough not to long ago I had to mcgyver my intake manifold because the end that connect to the turbo lip was dry rotted like brittle plastic instead of it being soft and rubbery and literally the intake cracked off so I had to cut the excess off with a razor knife and luckily it still fit on snug and didn't have to buy a new one so I will definitely check my diverter valve tomorrow and post some pictures and see what yall think of it. I really appreciate the feedback and help yall have been giving me 😆😆😄👊👍✌

 

Well there you have it thats my problem 😂😂 it fell out in like 5 peices i appreciate all the help guys but this thing is shot and im about to install the new one and let yall know how everything goes!