R55 How to manually open barn doors
#1
How to manually open barn / split doors (SOLVED)
Anybody know how? Mine quit popping open. The motor just whines. Sounds like the same issue as here:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pop-open.html
But, I cannot get the door open. I've tried pulling the boot out of the way to see a little. I've pulled the panel away from the door too so I can kinda see in behind it a little. But I cannot get the latch to release.
It won't just pry open. Any idea how to trip the release?
thx
--Dan
(Updated: Figured it out. Pics in posts 9 & 10)
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pop-open.html
But, I cannot get the door open. I've tried pulling the boot out of the way to see a little. I've pulled the panel away from the door too so I can kinda see in behind it a little. But I cannot get the latch to release.
It won't just pry open. Any idea how to trip the release?
thx
--Dan
(Updated: Figured it out. Pics in posts 9 & 10)
Last edited by houlster; 04-11-2013 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Updated title
#3
#4
This is from a 2008 R56 owner's manual, as seen here. I haven't seen a corresponding page in the R55 manual, but I intend to pull up my rear seat and look (someday).
#6
Come to think of it, maybe the Motoring Advisors at MINI dealerships should do a demonstration like airline steward/stewardesses do prior to take-off.
#7
What exactly stopped working? Just the "pop out" feature when you hold the 3rd button on the keyfob? Does the barn doors still unlock? I can open mine with the buttons from outside of the door after pressing the 2nd button on the keyfob. yours might be set differently though, but it should still unlock after unlocking the passenger door. maybe press unlock twice then the button behind the handle of the passengerside barn door. see if that works.
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#9
Ok, so I finally got a new motor ordered. Once I had the new one in hand, I could see there is a spot for a cable to attach for a manual release.
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
#11
Thank you Mr. Houlster! My electric latch also failed, however mine was in the drivers side Boot/Back/Barn door. I have been trying to figure out how to get the door open for days and had committed to cutting the striker. Thankfully I didn't have to but what a Pain in the ***.
I'll post photos of the location of the drivers side latch and how to get to it later.
Thanks again
I'll post photos of the location of the drivers side latch and how to get to it later.
Thanks again
#12
#3 is the driver side ( left rear ) lock mechanism. 51247167498
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51247167498/
&
#1 Right rear lock. 51492754459
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51492754459/
You might have to go through the trunk from the inside and try lifting up the lower trim sill to expose the lock mechanism? Or from the right barn door open to the sill.
#7 in picture.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51247167498/
&
#1 Right rear lock. 51492754459
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/51492754459/
You might have to go through the trunk from the inside and try lifting up the lower trim sill to expose the lock mechanism? Or from the right barn door open to the sill.
#7 in picture.
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Last edited by ECSTuning; 12-22-2014 at 06:21 AM.
#13
Great images from the manual. Yup #3 broke and is very difficult to get at. I ended up breaking the sill trim a little but there really is no other way to get the latch open. its just a small break to allow the striker (4) through.
The sill panel has four pins that are fairly easy to remove. Once they are out just give it a good pull and it should come free.
Once that is out of the way, it is possible to get to the latch. It was easier for me to take the screws out and then I was able to pull the latch to one side and jam a flat blade screw driver into the latch and pop the latch open. the latch is on the drivers side and very difficult to get to. Once the door is open it's not too bad. I'm waiting on new parts but I figure I should have the whole thing back together in 30 minutes or so.
The sill panel has four pins that are fairly easy to remove. Once they are out just give it a good pull and it should come free.
Once that is out of the way, it is possible to get to the latch. It was easier for me to take the screws out and then I was able to pull the latch to one side and jam a flat blade screw driver into the latch and pop the latch open. the latch is on the drivers side and very difficult to get to. Once the door is open it's not too bad. I'm waiting on new parts but I figure I should have the whole thing back together in 30 minutes or so.
Last edited by hamsill; 06-14-2013 at 06:25 PM. Reason: Missed a detail
#15
#16
Don' t know about the door panel being damaged, but the parts are above in post #12 and available from MINI as a genuine part at this time.
I guess you are talking about #1 on the door?
Thanks
I guess you are talking about #1 on the door?
Thanks
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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#17
Mine driver side just stopped working also, but no wine or motor running sound. I happened to notice two drops of what looked like oil on the door sill, #7 above and can see the same fluid along the inside of the driver’s side door paneling. I assumed this was the latch #3 but now as I re-read the thread could it be the handle? I don’t know what would have oily fluid that would leak? I’ll have to try and pull the inside paneling off to have a better look once I manually get the door open.
#18
Ok, so I finally got a new motor ordered. Once I had the new one in hand, I could see there is a spot for a cable to attach for a manual release.
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
Also I would highly highly recommend replacing the driver side latch when the passenger side ones fails, even if it's still functional. Taking a good look at the driver side I don't know how you would be able to do something like this on the drivers side latch, even if you had the passenger door open. The passenger side should fail before the driver side simply because it is used more often. Depending on how often you open both doors, there's really no telling how soon after the driver side would fail after the passenger side.
Picture of the cut panel:
#19
Coincidently the left latch stopped working after installing a new battery. That is another story but I tried the battery disconnect for a few minutes and re-connect trick and that got it working again. I went ahead and replaced both left and right side so I wouldn’t have to deal with a potential failed latch. They are not very expensive and it was fairly easy to do.
#20
hi guys,
my right barn door lock failed to engage. I have ordered the part but I have no idea how to take the plastic cover off. Any suggestions. I did managed to take the top part, the plastic covers that goes around the window frame, off. But the bottom one seems firmly attached.
Any pic/video on how would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Joseph
--------------------------- Sovled!! --------------
I was just being too whimpy. A little more force finally took the the cover off starting from the top of the cover and "peel" it off.
Thanks guys.
Joseph
my right barn door lock failed to engage. I have ordered the part but I have no idea how to take the plastic cover off. Any suggestions. I did managed to take the top part, the plastic covers that goes around the window frame, off. But the bottom one seems firmly attached.
Any pic/video on how would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Joseph
--------------------------- Sovled!! --------------
I was just being too whimpy. A little more force finally took the the cover off starting from the top of the cover and "peel" it off.
Thanks guys.
Joseph
Last edited by jli0022; 05-08-2014 at 05:09 PM.
#21
hi guys, my right barn door lock failed to engage. I have ordered the part but I have no idea how to take the plastic cover off. Any suggestions. I did managed to take the top part, the plastic covers that goes around the window frame, off. But the bottom one seems firmly attached. Any pic/video on how would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Joseph
#23
Awesome, glad you were able to get that panel off.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#24
Is this showing the Left (Driver) side rear door lock??
Can someone tell me exactly how to access the LEFT rear door lock please?
I have seen quotes about removing the bottom sill and breaking it slightly. I have seen others talk about removing the trim around the window. Any photos showing how to access would be great! Thanks
I have seen quotes about removing the bottom sill and breaking it slightly. I have seen others talk about removing the trim around the window. Any photos showing how to access would be great! Thanks
Ok, so I finally got a new motor ordered. Once I had the new one in hand, I could see there is a spot for a cable to attach for a manual release.
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
Knowing what and where it was I was able to pull the inside panel off the door and pull it out enough to reach in behind and get to the latch to get it to release. I used a punch, but a long reach, skinny flat tip screw driver would probably work best.
You just have to get it onto the release (where the cable would go if there was one ) and push it towards the back and it'll release. Once I knew exactly what I was looking for it only took a couple minutes of poking around to trip it. Then the motor is 2 screws & about 90 sec to change .
These pics show the release and where you have to catch it with a screw driver / punch:
#25
Left rear door release
You do not have to take the cover off the door. the latch is under the door behind the plastic trim panel behind the warning triangle.
Once that sill trim is off you will be able to see the latch. on the outboard side of the latch there is a small release lever. I used a small screw driver and jammed it into it until it released. I removed the mounting screws to get a better look at what I was doing but I dont know if that makes it any easier. I posted some photos of my repair about half way up this thread.
Once that sill trim is off you will be able to see the latch. on the outboard side of the latch there is a small release lever. I used a small screw driver and jammed it into it until it released. I removed the mounting screws to get a better look at what I was doing but I dont know if that makes it any easier. I posted some photos of my repair about half way up this thread.