After receiving the part from ECS, I determined I could drill a small (10mm) hole and trip the latch with a piece of coathanger wire.[/QUOTE]

It would be very useful if you could take a photo and post it here of exactly where you drilled the hole to access the latch so others could get the door open if they get in a similar situation.

 

Here's how I got my left door open:

Take out the flat load floor and the panel underneath and everything you've got in there.
Fold down your rear seats so you can get in there.
Pull out the center of each of the four plastic rivets that hold the rear sill trim piece and remove the rivets.
Next I twisted a small loop of wire. Test fit it to your new lock's manual release indicated above in this thread.
Lift up the rear sill trim (you can't remove it until the door is open)
Feel your way to catching the release with your wire loop and pull

Pop - your door is open!

Replacing the lock mechanisms is easy after that. Good luck!

 

 

https://youtu.be/tkicBpiFifc here's a video with the door stuck shut...

 

I just got my mini a few days ago and the drivers side barn door was stuck shut. I was able to open it after reading this page. I also ordered a replacement part from ESC. However, my left side still did not work with the new part.
It’s an odd setup. I don’t see how or where the driver side barn door handle/button actually connects to the actuator that holds the door shut. The driver side only has two wires going into it and they both come from the passenger side actuator. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for this? I connected an Ohms meter to the door handle/button and it seems to be working correctly. My passenger side barn door is working correctly.
I don’t understand how this setup works lol.
In the mean time I made a release cable and installed it on the old actuator. I ground it into a t shape slid it in, drilled a hole in the frame and plastic trim, installed a grommet and now can easily pull my “emergency truck release”.

 

Thanks to this thread I was able to replace my driver's side actuator. I ended up breaking the trim panel to get it out since blindly stabbing at it with a pic was NOT working for me.

Got both the left and right side replaced after ordering them from ECSTuning.

 

 

Great information! I found myself in the same predicament and used provided information to figure out a quick solution i.e. no removing of any panels to open the RHS barn door.
1. Make the tool;
º I used the thin metal strip from an old windscreen wiper blade i.e. two strips that hold the rubber in place.
º Bend the tip as per image and an additional slight bend further away from the tip. This ensures the tip can reach the "release catch" to be pushed forward.
2. Without removing the door trim, insert the tool (see alignment in photo without the door trim). The tool must initially be inserted with the tip pointing upward. Pull the rubber, covering the striker, away to help with alignment.
3. Once the tool is inserted push it sideways to the right; it should find resistance against the metal frame as in photo.
4. Now twist the tool 180º so the tip points downward.
5. Push the tool all the way past the "release catch" and then retract slowly until you hear a click sound as the tip moves over the "release catch" that must be pushed forward.
6. Now push the tool back in and it will push the "release catch" opening the door.

Hope this makes it a bit easier for someone else.


Bent tip and slight bend further back so tip can reach the pin it needs to push back.

This is the alignment required when inserting the pin between rubber and door trim as per video. The pin to be pushed back is right under the mounting screw.

 

Hi,

I ran into the same problem with a stuck passerger side split door a few days ago. I managed to pop open the door with a screwdriver. However after a few times it will pop open a little but won't go all the way. Feels like something got stuck although the lock partially disengaged. When I'm driving the sensor says the barn door is still open although it's not. I've ordered the new part but I wouldn't be able to replace it without fully open the door. Does any one have a clue how to deal with this?

Thanks

 

Hello,

I am able to trip the cable spot but the lock only unlocks partially. the latch will not fully retract. I have the new one and it does the same thing.. I lock it, release the cable part and it only unlocks partially. What am I missing? Thanks

 

I have to go try this right now.
Thank you SO MUCH for showing the tool and how to use it without removing a lot of parts. It should be a factory designed tool that is LEFT in the car, sadly.
BUT once I get my new latch/locking mechanism, I'm going to install that pull cord idea. I can probably just buy one used in the r56/r57 and modify it for my barn door.

 

I definitely recommend people do this for future proofing their locking mechanism.

 

Thats a good idea.

 

So I installed fishing line leaders (6" on left side, below black sill) and 12" leader on right side door (and used a heat shrink tube as a conduit from top of latch up about 4" to run the leader line in as to not catch on anything). I then grabbed a set of (free) glow in the dark emergency release handles from a few junked e90s and the swivel slips right into where the factory lead t-bar WOULD sit. Worked out beautifully.

 

@Mack67,

Do you have any further insight on opening the right barn door? I cannot seem to hit the mark as you described in the write up. Sadly, the video doesn't show your procedure well.

Thanks for any more help!

George