Yes, appear almost identical to what I had dealer installed on my R53 S




I am reading his comment in such a way that he is suggesting that with the addition of the "slots" then this is no longer possible......so it's a good thing.

 

Finally got the chance to install my OEM rack. (The part # on mine is 846, for those of you keeping score at home. ) Used Schatzy's instructions posted here.

It is on rock solid but with one minor problem. At all 4 clamping points, the rack is pushing the rain gutter down about an eighth of an inch. I don't see such a "bow" in the gutter in any photos posted here. Is this normal?

 

The item you mentioned above did not happen with my installation, but it did cause a slight alignment problem with the club door window at the top with a little bulge in the rubber seal.

I would be curious if yours does the same thing or not. In other words: does the club door glass sit firmly against the rubber seal along the top or does the glass start to "overlap" part of the upper portion of the seal and a lower portion of the seal? It's hard to explain, but that is what mine did after the install and this leaves a very small gap along the left had side of the glass. For me it hasn't been an issue and I'm going to ask my dealer if they can slightly adjust the window to fix the problem (probably by only a 1/16th of an inch) so the glass sits cleanly along the same seal.

 

Your explanation is fine; I understand perfectly because my club door glass is doing the same thing. For the first half of the window edge, all looks normal. At about the halfway point, the window's top edge become visible (rather than being covered by the seal. It is the 1/8 inch bulge mentioned in my earlier post that is causing it. I haven't doused it with the hose, but I don't believe the seal is compromised.

This bulge is very gradual. The rain gutter starts sloping down ever so slightly about 8 inches away from the clamping point.

I have begun to consider cutting away a little more of the gutter -- if further investigation (glorified "poking around") tells me it might work. Hope I can take a look tomorrow.

 

Anyone discover a part number for the rack preparation slot protection dohickies?

Thanks
Peter

 

Schatzy- did you find a number on the filler clips?

My big question- do they have a part number for the bolt/brass nut combination? As you may recall, I managed to strip the nut. I could not find anything to fit the bolt so I ended up drilling out the existing bolt and replacing it with a carriage, locked down with a thin nut, and a flange nut to push against the bracket mechanism. Worked fine, but I'm hesitant to take it down now as it was a bit of a hassle installing the revised setup.

I then had to "engineer" brackets to mount my existing bike racks to the crossbars. Will post pics when I get a chance to load it up- really looking forward to seeing what a tandem bike looks like on the roof!

 

Went away for the weekend but have numbers for the "dohickies" will post this evening. But i am not sure if it is one "dohickie" or a set of four and will not know until the special order from the UK arrives. But from the parts brake down it looks as if it is a quantity of 4 and the little removal tool. If that is the case then in is a great price at $20.00, but if it is only one then it will get expensive to add or replace them.

 

Part Number for the "Dohickies" aka OEM Rack Fillers, aka Dismantling Hoods

82.72.426.987

As i stated above i am at this point not sure and neither is my pats guy as to exactly what constitutes this part number. I may be just one filler plug or it may be 4 of them plus the removal tool. i believe it is that 4 + tool as that is what is shown on the parts locater at the parts department.

I am supposed to have mine by the end of this week, but i am not counting on it. As soon as i have the part(s) in hand I will post a picture.

 

It sounds like I'm having the same problem as well. I used Schatzy's instructions which were great I did the rain test by spraying all 4 areas and did have water leak in on club door side. There is enough of a bulge to have the glass not fully pressed against the seal.

Schatzy, since you are roof rack expert, is there away to fix this?

 

Can you send me some pictures with the rack on and off so that i can see what the difference is and hopefully be able to tell you what needs to be done.

I do know that there is some adjustment possibilities with the window itself, But i have not done that as mine works great.

 

Had the same thing when I first did my rack. Not sure if it's the same problem but I turned my rack around then the bulge and leak went away.

 

Hey MBX5 - Yeah, I saw your post and gave that a shot on mine as well but it actually made the problem more pronounced by swapping ends. So, I went back to the way it was supposed to go and now it fits better (but still not perfect enough to completely seal).

This is still a very good suggestion for others since it may resolve the problem for them.

 

Schatzy, sent you a PM

MBX5, I did do that on the front rack, I'll try that on the rear as well.

 

Hi Schatzy--
I've been wondering a bit about these--been trying to picture the inside of the mount sites. My best guess is (A) that the bracket makes either the "inside floor" or "inside ceiling" of the slot and that the tongue of the clamping plate slides in along the groove in the bracket and then expands to fit the groove when the clamping plate screw is turned.
Q.: if this is right how deep is it from the outside of the slot to the full depth of the groove in the bracket?

Other guesses are:
(B): that these brackets are mounted opposite the slots in the roof and that as the rack enters the slots it hits these brackets with just the end tips of the rack fitting. And the groove in the bracket prevents it from going lower, as well thickness of the bracket prevents it from going deeper into the center of the roof.

If this is correct where does the bottom of the indent on the brackets sit with respect to the slot opening? Exactly opposite or lower down?


On the part of the rack that actually enters the slot: could you tell me what is the depth of that 'tongue' that sticks in there, I guess the top of the tongue is a slightly smaller depth than the bottom?
I know it is at an angle to the rest of the clamping plate but I can't tell from pictures what angle. Does that tongue sit in the roof slot parallel to the ground or does it angle down toward the ground?

Appreciating the info in advance!!!

 

Here's a link to other rack part numbers. The dohicky number is different but that could be because it is R56 not R50--but I think slots are same size. Says 4 dohickies included.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...71&hg=82&fg=51

 

There are now three differenct part numbers for OEM Roof Racks as I explained earlier in this thread.

82.71.0.398.321 - formerly for use on the cooper now discontinued in the UK but still available in the US

82.71.0.435.846 - formerly only for the Clubman but has now been changed to Cooper only in the UK but no change for USA. Yet a bunch of us have unequivocal proof it works on the clubman.

82.71.2.149.225 - New clubman rack part number but not avaliable for 4-5 weeks from one source and date for release not available yet from another source. Both sources are in the UK. NO mention of this part in the USA yet.

The part number I listed is for the 846 and the number that is listed at realoem.com is for the 321, but from what info i go t from the parts department is that the part for the 321 has been replaced/substituted by the part for the 846. I.E. they are the same part, just a different number.

Makes the inside floor of the slot. and yes to the "bracket and then expands to fit the groove when the clamping plate screw is turned"

Not sure but i will measure it when i get a chance.

The ends of the clamping plate sit almost parallel to the ground.

I do not have my car available at this time my gf has it in Maine so I can not take pictures of it. When I can I will get pictures and post them here. I hope to have the car back sometime late this evening. If she i back before it gets dark I will try to get it done tonight but if it is dark it will have to wait until tomorrow evening.

I will do my best to show how the rack clamping plate and the bracket in the car meet and fit together.

 

I picked up a set of the slot doohickies today at my dealer (Ferman in Palm Harbor, FL).

Part number 82-72-0-426-987 Dismantling Hooks A

There were 4 and the removal tool. I paid $11.26.

Peter

 

(deleted)

 

Here are the pictures i promised of the roof rack mounting brackets in and out of the car and how the rack mounts to them.

This one show the bracket just released and brought down form it original position in the car




This next picture show the bracket from below with the screws that hold it in place.




Here is the bracket looking thru the slot in the roof





Now for pictures of how the rack clamping plates fit in the bracket

This one shows the bracket as it is put into the slot before it is clamped in place.





Here we see the clamping plate in its clamped in place position.




Hope this helps people understand how the plate fits in the car and how the clamping plates on the rack fit together and hold everything in place.

 

Thanks Schatzy,
Those photos are very useful in helping me choose a Yakima Q-clip.
Peter had gone with the Q47 which is discontinued but as he mentioned there are other very similar Q-clips e.g. Q-5
His set-up seems to work but with the tall part of the Q-47 been vertical it sets the clamping part out away from the Q-tower (in his pictures last week).

I want to find a Q clip that angles in more along the roof dunes, similar in profile to the OEM rack, which all installation problems aside does look rather sleek).
Based on web photos of all the Qclips I think I will try the Q97 --but will have to take myself to a rack store to look at them in the flesh--see it they are tall enough to reach from roof slot to rack Qtower.

I think the almost-horizontal part of these Q-clips is similar to the part of the OEM clamp that slides into the slot--all not quite horizontal, with slight downward angle.

Will post results once I get my hands on the Q97 (and get them machined to 5.5 cm wide so they fit slot.

 

Bump....

MINI HAVE YOU FORGOTTEN US ???

 

Apologies in advance for shifting gears in the thread...

My OEM rack has been on the Clubbie for over a week now. It has been through several summer downpours this week -- with no leaking whatsoever. What was a clumsy install and fit the first time gets easier and more proper (for lack of a better term) on the second install. And the third. The slight bowing of my rain gutters has diminished.

The Thule Big Mouth trays fit perfectly on the OEM load bars once you use XADAPT2. (Throw out the instructions that come with the Big Mouth and use the XADAPT2 instructions to get the trays mounted to the bars. I keep the XADAPT2 instructions and a printout of Schatzy's masterpiece inside the top of the OEM rack toolkit. It's always handy in the boot.

I am even optimistic that I can get three trays across. I am off and riding without losing all of the summer.

What's the point of this? I simply offer this as additional testimony that the OEM rack works on most Clubbies -- especially those with a late spring or summer build date (mine was June 10th). In this never-ending saga called Rack on Clubman, workable options are beginning to appear. As you try to figure out which way you want to go, I recommend you keep the OEM solution in the running -- especially if you already own Thule roof gear.

The hardest part was getting a Mini dealer to sell me one! I lied; said I had an R56.

 

Where did you get the "XADAPT2?" And, do you know if that adaptor will work with standard Thule trays?

 

The Big Mouths came from the local bike store that I use -- Cycle Craft. (Shameless plug: they are as cheap for Thule as the internet rack guys that came up in my Google search. And...I have good face-to-face advice if I need it.) Cycle Craft could order them (any Thule dealer can, obviously), but I happened to find them in my local EMS.

This adapter is specifically built, according to Thule, to attach part 599XTR (Big Mouth) to a number of things -- among them Thule Rapid Aero bars. To quote the Thule catalogue: "An Adapter to fit the 599XTR, 724, and 725 onto the Rapid Aero System and 421 / 422 Xsporter." The 724 and 725 are ski/snowboard carriers and the Xsporter is a rack system for pickup trucks.

Given that Thule Rapid Aero bars and the MINI OEM bars are virtually identical, I figured all would work. I was right (even a broken clock is right twice a day ).

*** WARNING: corny, but sincere sentiments expressed below! Skip ahead if you lack a certain fortitude.

Many thanks to those who took the time to explain things here -- especially Schatzy. This thread is a microcosm of everything that is good about the internet. I can't imagine getting to this point without all the knowledge gained here.

*** Those of you with weak constitutions may now exhale, and we appreciate your patience.

 

Very well said, NJ Clubman - and I'm in agreement.