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Here is a little history on my 08 ragtop S manual trans... I got this for the grand total of $2200 with transmission issues... It started and ran great... No clutch pedal and it made a loud whine when running at idle... I started it in first and got it going... I shifted it without the pedal by matching the next gear to the correct speed... So it worked... It was solid, for the most part... and included a colony of ants... UGH!
I got it home and pulled the trans... Melted throw-out bearing...
New clutch and solid flywheel combo that saved two pounds...
Pass rear window regulator was wound up around the spool... I pulled it apart, straightened the bends in the wire rope and wound it up again... It broke the blue wheel, so I fab'd one quickly out of aluminium... Not my best work, but it is hidden...
Headlights were hazed over... A little rubbing compound and time on them got them better... I need to do the 2000 grit sandpaper then repeat the rubbing compound...
My top worked when I got it... The radio did not... Nothing from the radio at all... The PO had installed a blue Parrot thing and popped the fuse to the back of the radio and main amp fuse... The radio comes on, but no sound so I suspect I have the common amp failure... So, back to the top... It worked until I replaced the radio fuses... Now I have no communication from the amp, nor the CVM (top module) when I hook up the car to the laptop... Swapping in a spare CVM did nothing... Thoughts on this one?!
So, the ants have moved from the engine bay to the driver side rear area... I think I flushed them out this past washing... The interior was completely neglected and filthy... I'm still doing detail cleaning!
There is a mod I want to do, but unsure if it is possible due to wiring differences... I was to put the information gauge cluster in the middle dash location and the dual gauges over the steering column... Can I do that if I pull the wiring and such from the donor car? I found a car that had it, but it had the nav screen and I don't really want nav... Oh, it was also a 2002... I need one from a 9/04 and newer, according to REALOEM.COM.....
Well.... This is a lot to start out with... I should break this post up, but I already have it done, so we'll see how it goes... I did do a search for my issue, but most problems concerned the cables...
There is a mod I want to do, but unsure if it is possible due to wiring differences... I was to put the information gauge cluster in the middle dash location and the dual gauges over the steering column... Can I do that if I pull the wiring and such from the donor car? I found a car that had it, but it had the nav screen and I don't really want nav... Oh, it was also a 2002... I need one from a 9/04 and newer, according to REALOEM.COM.....!
Nice find! Correct me if I'm wrong. Is this what you are aiming to do?
If so, as you can see it is possible but you'll have to have the chrono option feature turned on by a dealer or someone with the right software - it's a coded option. Others can attest, but I'm pretty sure it's a straight swap. The Chrono gauge module in center is just swapped out and same for rev counter but the option will still have to be turned on via software. You can find these gauges pretty cheap used on Ebay.
Nice find! Correct me if I'm wrong. Is this what you are aiming to do?
If so, as you can see it is possible but you'll have to have the chrono option feature turned on by a dealer or someone with the right software - it's a coded option. Others can attest, but I'm pretty sure it's a straight swap. The Chrono gauge module in center is just swapped out and same for rev counter but the option will still have to be turned on via software. You can find these gauges pretty cheap used on Ebay.
Good day!!
That is what I am looking to do!! Thanks so much!! I can code the option with the software I use for my BMW's... I hooked that software up the other day to look for the Convertible top module, but it was not avail... Nor was the amp... I reversed what I did when I pulled the aftermarket thing they PO installed that eventually popped the radio fuse, but the top still fails to operate like normal... I thought I had another member ask about that, but I was unable to respond so quickly... STILL NO INTERNET at the new house... UGH!!
So, thanks so much for the info!!! I'll search for the gauges and look into what I'll need to code the next few days off I get...
Does anyone know if we can code in an audible verify that the doors are locked or unlocked like the BMW's?!
Thanks again all!!!
Cheers!!
Originally Posted by WayMotorWorks
Looks like you're slowly bringing it back to life.
Good day!!!
Indeed... It is so much fun to drive!!! I wish the top was still working like normal!!! But, I'll get it sorted eventually!!
Thanks!!!
Cheers!!
One more thing I wanted to mention... I looked thru the posts on tires and decided to go with the NON RunFlat tires... What a world of difference it makes!! For those that might be worried about being stranded, I'd say play it safe and go with the RFT.... But I have a few different individuals I can call to come save me (return favor as such), so I am going to see how things go... I've also not been plagued with a blowout that would render the tire unrepairable... I've had one pick up a couple nails, but the little light should indicate I need to check them ASAP or sooner... A can of goo and a small compressor should save me in dire circumstances...
I was going to go with the OEM size, but taking a closer look at the RF snow tires I had on the car, going one size wider was almost a positive thing to do... I went with the Firestone Firehawks AS in 215/45/17... I'm very impressed with the smoother comfort and far better grip!!! I'd like to add that the responsiveness the MINI has probably saved it's life, if not our lives... The emergency lane change definitely kept the car scratch free!!! I'm sure I would have survived, but probably banged up if I was in something else... So... Happy motoring!!! Here are some pictures if I can get them to post...
Cheers all!!
Last edited by 08ragtop6s; 06-11-2019 at 08:02 PM.
Reason: Added stuff at the end...
Thanks! It's so much fun to drive! I think it's small size and people's fear of being squashed by big rigs keep most buyers away! I've avoided more issues on the highway due to its super fast responsiveness!
I fixed the top tonight... mine would not move at all... no sunroof or top.... Windows worked fine with all the buttons... I checked the operation and module in my GF's MINI... hers is a 2006, so it didn't have the extra security stuff... it would raise the top in hers, but not down... I was not getting como from the computer on the BUS.... White with yellow and red wire.... main distribution point is under the carpet in front of the pass seat... four wires were corroded and broken free... Fourth wire broke free during the repair prep.... repaired and the top is fine again.... next is the factory amp.... thinking about using one from an X3 or X5.... since the OEM HK seems to fail at alarming rates! I'll keep yous posted on that conversion...
Nice find! Correct me if I'm wrong. Is this what you are aiming to do?
If so, as you can see it is possible but you'll have to have the chrono option feature turned on by a dealer or someone with the right software - it's a coded option. Others can attest, but I'm pretty sure it's a straight swap. The Chrono gauge module in center is just swapped out and same for rev counter but the option will still have to be turned on via software. You can find these gauges pretty cheap used on Ebay.
Good day all! Super excited that I might get the gauges tomorrow.... I'm still looking for a chrono gauge cluster, other than the high priced ones on eBay!
I had found a working amp that I got for $60, but as my luck would have it, the eBay seller realized his mistake at such a low price and claims he lost it OR he really did lose it.... I don't mind since I was refunded.... So still no radio yet! But I'll figure it out! Pulling the OEM amp apart is useless! All micro circuits and small circuit chips.... ugh!
It's great to be able to put the top up while sitting at a light just before pulling into the parking lot two streets up....
I had the same corroded K-Bus wires on my '06 R52......I just stripped the wires back and soldered them all together and then wrapped them up
Most all of my electrical issues were fixed by doing this repair
Bryan
Good day!
Yea, I saw that on the other thread.... I think I might pull mine back apart and totally get rid of the connectors they used as well.... I don't see any other reason for the corrosion... mine only had four wires come free... I think one went to the light module cause the lights were always on in auto.... one may have been to the rain sensor... One was for my top... not really sure on the other... this should be a "must-do" for new owners.... Peace of mind thing! As it seems to be a normal occurrence...
I'm sure that this K-bus connection under the passenger front seat is only for convertibles. I have a 2004 S hardtop, I pulled the front seat from it and there wasn't anything under the carpet.
Fairly certain that being a convertible that both our cars leaked at some point. My carpet and insulation was very wet under there
After I removed that OE style connector and soldered all the wires together, the following items started working again in my car:
Power top, rear parking sensors, chime for the key left in ignition and when you hold the key close to ignition switch, navigation system started to work again, and maybe a few other things also.
The only things that don't work in my car now is the key fob buttons to lock and unlock the car, and the garage door opener system in the inside rear view mirror
Bryan
(You can read all about my car in the JCW section that I have been posting about for over a year since I got the car home, it's a long story, but the car is back on the road again)
The only things that don't work in my car now is the key fob buttons to lock and unlock the car, and the garage door opener system in the inside rear view mirror
Bryan
(You can read all about my car in the JCW section that I have been posting about for over a year since I got the car home, it's a long story, but the car is back on the road again)
Hey Bryan!
If you can do the solder thing on the k-bus, you can fix your remote and garage door opener in one shot! Years ago, my good friend had just started having issues with his key fob... We found out it was in his mirror and he was ready to buy a new one... I recommended taking it apart to see what's up... this is the problem and the easy fix... this circuit component gets corroded and things stop working... Tooth brush and contact cleaner to clean the component and it worked like new... the glass for the mirror is just sitting in there, so be aware when you pull the front surround part off... (this is actually a mirror from a 2010. I needed the arm ball from inside it for the GF's MINI)
If you can do the solder thing on the k-bus, you can fix your remote and garage door opener in one shot! Years ago, my good friend had just started having issues with his key fob... We found out it was in his mirror and he was ready to buy a new one... I recommended taking it apart to see what's up... this is the problem and the easy fix... this circuit component gets corroded and things stop working... Tooth brush and contact cleaner to clean the component and it worked like new... the glass for the mirror is just sitting in there, so be aware when you pull the front surround part off... (this is actually a mirror from a 2010. I needed the arm ball from inside it for the GF's MINI)
Good luck!
I'll give it a try.....the circuit board is not sold separately, and the complete mirror assembly is $740+ from the dealer.....I could buy used rear view mirrors all day long, but I don't want to spend the $$ and end up with a non-working one like I already have....
Good day all! Super excited that I might get the gauges tomorrow.... I'm still looking for a chrono gauge cluster, other than the high priced ones on eBay!
I had found a working amp that I got for $60, but as my luck would have it, the eBay seller realized his mistake at such a low price and claims he lost it OR he really did lose it.... I don't mind since I was refunded.... So still no radio yet! But I'll figure it out! Pulling the OEM amp apart is useless! All micro circuits and small circuit chips.... ugh!
It's great to be able to put the top up while sitting at a light just before pulling into the parking lot two streets up....
Cheers all!
thanks for the k-bus info... it helped alot... i know this thread is old, but I have the Amp and gauges you are looking for.
Well, it has been some time since I got on here... My restore has progressed once again after the motor replacement... I over did the performance part and stressed out the #3 rod bearing... It destroyed itself and took out the crank and rod... New bearings did not prove worthy... Okay...
So, I found a good parts car in the YPIY (you pull it yard)... I pulled the trans, half shafts (my boots were toast), cup holder, super charger (spare), and a few other odds and ends...
I had a spare E46 amp from my son's project... It looked exactly like the mini amp... Even the plug is the same...
So, I did some pinout comparison and got it to work...
First, I had to swap the rear amp end cover so the mounting would work... See pictures... I also got rid of the water collection tank... If your top leaks, water will find its way to the amp storage and short it out... The mini's amp is solid state... The E46 amp is not... It might get hotter, but getting rid of the tank opens up some more air flow and will allow any water to drain... So, I think it will last longer...
You have to swap some pins around... And change four pins from wide spade to needle pin version...
Here is the list! Pins in xx move to new spot xx...
1 to 22
2 to 23
11 to 33
12 to 34
13 to 11
21 to 12
22 to 32 (X)
23 to 31 (X)
24 to 21 (X)
25 to 13 (X)
31 to 42
32 to 41
33 to 40
34 to 39
The ones with (X)'s are the ones you need to change... Almost all BMW connectors have the same pins...
There is one drawback... You lose the steering wheel controls... They are connected to the amp... And the fade is also controlled thru the OEM amp... But all speakers work...
The amp might fail, but the E46 amps are dime a dozen!! Not $125 for one, if you can fine one!
Oddly enough, whatever chemicals in the carpet get rinsed out when water finds it's way in, they corrode the connections... I doubt clean water would do it... Well, my power wire (of all the wires) decided to corrode and break...
Let me know if you need some pins with wire or whatever...
So, I have to include one extra item in my HOW-TO amp mod.... The system stopped working the following day and I got a "disabled" on the radio... I left it alone and motored on...
My better half was using topless when it failed to restart after stopping for gas... I took her to work and went back to investigate... No spark... Short version of the long story is the corrosion on the K-bus wires under the carpet directly in front of the pass seat had resurfaced... Everything came apart... This included my EWS comms to the DME... I recorded the fix, but have to upload it to youtube... I hooked up INPA and found the EWS had a failed or wrong synch... Other things did not work after I repaired the K-bus, but worked just prior... The top was fine before the fix, but would only do the sunroof after the fix... I pulled the "power-on" for the amp... I was using the K-bus for this function since the amp didn't care if it had a signal on the voltage... As it turns out, the amp was putting 12V out of that port instead of looking for it... Fixed the K-bus (no amp), and searched for the issues concerning my no-start...
The EWS did not have signal due to the corrosion and wire breaks... So I searched... If I "reseeded" the codes, it might fix itself... It did work... Took some time to find the place in INPA, but it finally appeared on the right hand side of the screen under engine.dme. Shift F6.... Then choose Reset (F2)... Cycle power and it should clear out...
Okay, so pull the white/red/yellow wire (K-bus wire) from the connection that usually fails or the amp connector... And if you loose synch, use INPA to "reseed" the mods... Oh, any rear window issues are also found above... I made my own gear to replace the plastic one... No further issues...
05-05-2019, 04:57 PM
