I’ve been reading a lot here in the forum, but it seems that in my case it could be something else.
I did a overhaul on this engine last year since I changed the head gasket.

before the head gasket blew off, there was not p340 on my car.
Right when the car broke down because lack of compression on the piston I could not started the car engine rotated but didn’t startup.

after head gasket was done and pistons rings changed the car came alive, I also changed the timing belt, Sprocket etc.
i replaced the camshaft and crank up sensors both at the same time.
since they the error p340 kept coming.
i bought the aftermarket the cheap one though, so here my problem sometimes at least once a week it does not want to start even with brand new battery new starter new alternator and yes new radiator and water pump just FYI so it’s not the battery.

so im leaning towards the ews, now after reading articles about inmóvilizer i read that if you flash the car key close to the ignition it should make noises as if the keys were inserted in the ignition and indeed it chimes,so what the heck if the ews is acknowledging the car key why it’s not cranking the engine with all kind of lights on the dashboard as ussual when the car starts fine.

i m thinking to buy again this time from bmw the sensor just to remove it out of the equation but I’m so confuse troubleshooting since the problem it’s sporadic.
after a long day at work yesterday it let me down again but with my wife’s trucks I pulled the truck and manually engaged into first gear to force the car to start and it worked. As soon I parked on my driveway I try again to start up and nothing after 3 times reciclying the ignition key on/off it cranked up and it’s working again.
i have the Bentley manual for this car.

how can I troubleshoot something that is radondly happening?

i though the wired connection from the camshaft sensor were bad but they are fine.

should I spent $100 for a new camshaft sensor from the factory?
Or it could be something wrong with the ecm?(car computer)

i also heard that it could be the inmovilizer module.

i would like to be able to trace the relay that sent the signal to the starter.

its getting annoying and with my heart sinking on the floor thinking that I need a tow truck, good thing I have towing services, but waiting and wasting time it’s too much of a hassle for me.

Should I pay a tech to read the modules or can I buy something cheap in order for me to scan it myself.
i have a standard obii reader that only reads and delete codes.

thanks in advance guys
Miami Florida

 

Okay i forgot to mentioned that i changed the remote control batteries and it seems that is not charging the new battery.
im going to take apart the remote control keys and see if I could manually charge, it then glue again, idk what’s going to happen last time I used crazy glue let’s see.

few minutes ago the car was acting again so I flash the remote key with the door opened and makes that chime(sounds)but without removing the keys from where it is, it gets disconnected like the signal it’s not continuous!

so that’s my next task I would keep you posted

happy Good Friday

 

I used my bike battery as charger but then I plug the battery charger as well

Here is the battery being charged of the fob Before it had 3.3 and after about a hour it reached 3.83 volts I’m wondering what’s the max volts?

Here is the fob apart it seems that I would be able to glue together again with crazy glue

 

After I charged the fob key for about an hour it reached 3.83 volts.

i tried to start up my car and the usual bells and wistles but not juice to the starter, I could hear what I believe is the electric steering pump humming.

The error code of p0340 has been deleted ounce again.

so what it could it be?

the reason I took apart the fob to manually charge it thinking it was depleted but it wasn’t the case.

my next task it would be trace ignition to a relay that would send the signal to the starter!

 

Did you just try to charge a ~3 V cell by just connecting a ~14 V car charger to it?! You're lucky it didn't explode.

 

I charged it using the bike battery for only few minutes.

thats the same voltage that any car would have 13+ volts, I’m pretty sure it’s the same voltage at the ignition of this cars.
Or may be didn’t blew because it was depleted.
anyways it wasn’t the battery the problem.
i was able to found a mechanic and that has a better scan tool, I’m just waiting for him to get sometime and help me.
meanwhile I’m charging my car battery it was low I left the ignition on.

cheers

 

Is it just a mistake or did you actually check the wiring for the "Camshaft" sensor... The 0340 is for the Crankshaft position sensor, located below the intake tube, not Camshaft sensor.
Just checking?

 

FYI
when I changed the pistons rings and did a light honing on each cylinder, and replaced the radiator, I replaced both sensors since they were very accessible at that time.

correct me if I’m wrong the crankshaft sensor it’s the one facing towards the radiator on my r52 engine! Almost by piston #4?

the camshaft sensor to my understanding it’s on the side where the timing chain is and pulleys on the passenger side (USA).

my obii scan reader it’s P0340 camshaft bank 1.

in order to have access to the crankshaft sensor I need to loose up the front bumper of my mini to push forward the radiator so I could get a better grip on the crankshaft sensor. I hope we are in the same page?

Yesterday I put back the clutch safety switch as original designed since I did a bypassed thinking that the switch was bad and that could be the reason of my car no starting but the problem still occurring.

im awaiting for guy that has much better computer to check all the modules on my car, hopefully he would nailed it.

Thanks for your replies.

 

Correct, the sensor and location you're referencing is the one.

And yes, after making sure the wiring and plug are in good working order, i'd look into an OEM part.
Even though that sensor is basically a magnetic pickup combined with a sending unit, the voltage that it sends has to be correct or the the ECU will interpret it as a fault.

Oh, and simply as an FYI, while the scanner says "bank 1", p0340 is a generic BMW code, and the actual definition is "bank 1 or only", and we only have 1.
Didn't want you to think you were accidentally missing something.

 

This is the camshaft sensor

 

Ok thanks for your input.

The mechanic has not showing up to troubleshoot the mini. I’m still waiting.

 

The mechanic scan the faulty codes and deleted them

The starter was the problem although I had replaced in December so it didn’t last, I would buy locally instead of using eBay. It seems that the selenoide was acting up. So I’m buying a new one tomorrow

 

I was going to ask the exact same question but I gave him the benefit of the doubt that he has a current limiting resistor properly sized.

I am never that gutsy unless I had to get the Mini started as my life depends on it, and the whole army is firing at me.

 

Have you properly verify that indeed the starter is bad or intermittently bad, which can include the solenoid being the cause? I ask as a lot of folks don't know how and ended up misdiagnose the fault.

 

A new starter from Napa $124 lifetime guarantee Now it’s starting but the code p0340 continues another day for that sensor replacement.

 

the selenoide was bad I ended up buying a new starter
I didn’t wanted just to fix it, i just bought a new one.
sounds strong while starting nothing like before.

i hope this would take care the p340 sometimes it’s caused by a bad starter !

 

Update

it seems that the problem with my mini no starting it was due to bad chassis ground.
so I think replacing the starter it was a waste of money!
because with the new starter the problem persist on/off.
i even disconnected the after market alarm and it kept doing no starting.
so thanks to you tube I learned to diagnostic a bad chassis ground connection by using a jump cable from negative battery post to a good know ground on the engine I used the alternator as ground the chassis and the car started right up.

i clean the passenger side ground to chassis with a grinder and apply dialectic grease so it would not happen again!

remain to be seen if the camshaft sensor error keeps popping up hopefully not!


Cleaned and lubed

Jump cable from negative battery post to alternator