Greetings all! This is my first post, and I'm desperate to find a solution for my problem. I have a 2007 US R52 MCS that I've had for about four months. I've put about 10k miles on it since then, and it has about 85,000 miles on it. I've used the convertible top on it many times since in the past four months, despite some cold days. I live in central Illinois, and it was a fairly mild winter. Everything has been working smoothly, until the other day.

The last time I used the top was last Friday, on the first warm day of the season. After returning from about 90 minutes of driving with the top down, I went to put the top up. This is the first time I've noticed any issues with the top. It began going up like normal, but then it stalled and got stuck about halfway up with the red light blinking. I put it back down, in case something wonky happened, and then started putting it back up again. It stuttered a bit, but it eventually made it all the way and locked into position. I was happy with it, but then the sunroof started closing and stopped after about a second. This time, there was no red light or anything. It's just dead.

I checked the 5A fuses in the driver's side foot well and in the engine compartment, but both were intact. I also attempted cycling the windows up and down a few times and even tried to open it with the unlock button. The unlock button and remote will open the windows, but then the top just won't move. Sometimes I've noticed that it will click slightly like a relay is getting set off, but then it's not actually getting any power. My thought was that it's either the motor or some electrical wiring, but I'm stuck. I tried searching multiple forums, and couldn't find the stalling issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

 

Since you owned the car have you installed any type of lubricant on the hinge connections of the top or on the glides of the targa sunroof?

Next if you know how to test circuits keep reading, if you cannot, suggest you take the car to a shop. Fuse FL3 is a large 40 amp fuse that is on the bottom of the engine bay fuse/relay center. If the motors over-amped the fuse could be blown. Should verify you have power to the motors. If not, then disconnect the negative lead of your battery, remove the air filter box/ECU holder from the car (I remove the ECU harness and pull the ECU out of the plastic box before I take out the air box), remove the two screws that hold the fuse/relay box in place and then turn the fuse box over to access the 40 amp fuse.

There is a picture of the bottom of the fuse box in this thread. You can see there is no fuse in FL3 as that car was a R53, not R52.

The ECU harness has two plugs. Take a screwdriver and pull/push the tab (it is shaped like the Pie symbol). This tabs push back to a point and then you push more and they lift the plug out of the harness.

Good luck and please keep us posted.

Last but not least and perhaps stupid, you have verified the switch on the trunk tray is is fully depressed by latching the top latches in the trunk? I am pretty sure this switch if not depressed will not allow the top to work.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lp-please.html

 

Before you get too crazy in it, you need to make sure the rear shelf is in and pushed back tightly, as this will inhibit the tops ability to go up or down. The reason you ask? There is a micro switch


Micro switch is under the shelf unit. If it is not switched with the shelf, the top will not work!
Itsme Wayne

 

Thank you both for the suggestions! I'll look into the FL3 and motors as suggested above. I'll have to wait till this weekend, because I don't have time during the week to tear into it. It seems like it's an electrical issue, and I'm hoping it's the fuse and not the cables. I have not lubricated the top (my first convertible), so I'll make sure to do that too.

I did check the micro switch, but remember that the sunroof portion doesn't work either. I'll make sure to post once I get a chance to look at it. Luckily, it's raining this week, so I don't have to worry about the top not working. Thank you!

 

Hi Mike,
The sunroof part will not work either, with the two micro switches not operational.The locking levers are where the other switch is, but I have found the one for the shelf is usually the culprit.

 

The button on the driver's side that is closed by the boot door has a short throw and doesn't always connect. I solved the problem with a stick-on chair leg skid which pushes the button clear in. Have someone hold that button clear down and try cycling the top.
Also, taking care of the canvas, use either RaggTopp or 303. For the exposed scissor joints that will, from time to time, begin to squeak, use ONLY a good dry lube like Liquid Wrench. Others like WD-40 will attract and collect dust.

 

You can use a c-clamp to depress the boot switch if you have nobody to help. Can also take a bungie card and wrap it around the shelf to pull it down tight so the switch has to be on.

If the boot switches are not depressed/closed, there will be no power to start the process of opening the roof.

 

Yea, the sunroof will work even with the boot switch not pressed. But when you get to the main part of the top going down the button will just flash. Check the motor, the wire harness and make sure the micro switch is working.

Like they said above.

 

Thank you all for your suggestions! And thanks ECSTuning for verifying that the sunroof still works with the boot switch not pressed. I thought it may have been a fluke with my Mini, but I removed the shelf one day when I was moving a bunch of stuff. When I did that, the sunroof worked, but the remaining part of the top did not.


Here's an update:
I tried many of the suggestions above, but I eventually gave up and took it to a Mini dealer. According to Mini of Orland Park, it's the hall sensors that failed. Based on their estimate, it's about $1,540 for labor. The technician said they have to completely remove the top to do the repair, and then they have to replace the wires and reinstall the top. The entire repair takes about 11 hours according to the estimate. I know I can get the parts cheaper online rather than at the dealer, so I won't include their part price estimate.


Is this a repair that can be done easily (just time-consuming) or is it something that I should leave to a professional? Thanks again to everyone who is willing to help me figure this out! More info on the parts I need to replace:


Wiring Set Folding Top 54347079879
Wiring Set Tensioner 54347135288

 

You are welcome.

There was a TSB for 54347079879 so you might want to check on that.




https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/54347079879/


Link to where I talk about the TSB::

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...on-t-work.html



The hall sensor was mentioned before.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...vertibles.html

Yes it's labor intensive, I would check on that TSB if it was performed with part 54347079879

A convertible top shop that deals with Webasto or Haartz Top ( Which is whom MINI uses) might be able to do that top work since they repair them. But they might not have access to the TSB and install info.

http://workshop-manuals.com/mini/ Select R52 MINI

Has some good info on the top and top repair, but you have to dig trough it. If you dont feel good about convertible top work, leave it to the professionals.

 

The TSB mentioned is a MUCH early vehicle production date. 6/1/2005 to 7/9/2005. Unfortunate for OP, his 2007 would not have been in the TSB

 

Just saw they were 2007. Thanks for the heads up. Then they should have the updated line and fitment. Only other choice is buy it and then get it done by a convertible top repair place or the dealer.

 

Sorry to hear this. 11 hours sounds crazy, but in most cases a shop not experienced with doing this job on a MINI will probably end up taking 2.5 days....seen it happen. Unlike most book hours set by manufacturer, this job does take at least 11 hrs. I have also seen many occasions where independent shops actually referred MINI owner back to the dealer to have this done instead of tackling this job themselves....

 

Plus 1^

Mini Dealer is THE place to have this done.

I know its expensive...but it is VERY time consuming

Its done right ...and in ONE day..

IMO.....money well spent.....

 

I wanted to share an update on this problem. I finally got around to troubleshooting a bit more, and I actually got it to repeat the problem! I have a feeling it might just be a short in one of the wires, but I want to see what everyone thinks.

I have two videos I made that basically show the same problem. To get it to repeat the issue, I released the hydraulic shut-off valve and had someone help me lower the top. Then, I closed the hydraulic shut-off valve back, and the videos are the result of that process. I have not been able to get it to the point where it will lock in place and begin the sunroof cycle. Once it makes contact with the top of the windscreen, it immediately stops working. However, If I don't go too far up, I can lower it back down with no problem.

What are everyone's thoughts on this? Is it still the wiring harness or is it something else? To me, it seems like a short somewhere, but that could very well be in the wiring harness.

(Video links updated 4/10/2023)

Video 1 Link

Video 2 Link

 

I just read your 5 year old thread on your convertible top but don't see a follow up so was wondering if you ever got your convertible top working again as I'm having the same exact problem on my 2007 mini convertible.

 

My apologies everyone! I figured out the issue several years ago and never updated this thread! I received an e-mail today from someone asking about it, so I thought I should provide an update for anyone else who finds this thread.

Unfortunately, the news was not good. I took it to my nearest Mini dealer a month after the post above, and they found that it was a hall sensor in the top itself, which is a major repair. They quoted me $1,899.65 for parts and labor. It was 11 hours of labor ($1,540) and 2 parts ($359.65). This was back in 2017, so the estimate may be higher now. The repair requires removing the entire top, replacing a wiring harness, and then putting it all back together before calibrating everything. The part numbers are: 54-34-7-079-879 and 54-34-7-135-288. I ended up not doing the repair, because I didn't think it would be worth the investment. There may be some other causes of the same issue, but the wiring harness is a known common issue with the tops in the 1st Gen Minis.

I was not able to find another mechanic who would work on it, but I did find a detailed instruction manual on how to repair it if you are inclined to do so or have mechanics in your area who are willing to try it. The manual also includes instructions on how to manually operate the top. While it is not recommended and could damage the frame or other parts of the top, I personally used manual top operation until August 2020 when I finally traded it in for a new Mini. It was kept in the garage, so I would leave it open for most of the summer or for long road trips. That repair manual is available on the West Texas Motoring Club's website, which also has a ton of great resources for 1st Gen Minis.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to post here or send me a private message!

 

Thanks for the update the part are linked on our site, yea that repair is mostly labor, I bet a convertible top shop could have done it for far less?

 

Yes, and thank you for your help on this issue! I did find an independent BMW/MINI shop that would have done it for around $1300 or so, but they didn't provide a loaner vehicle, so it would've been a little more than that when all was said and done.

I think a convertible top shop would probably be even less expensive, and then that might also be a great opportunity to get a new top while they have it off. I tried to find a convertible top shop nearby, but I live in the Midwest, and I wasn't able to find one. Others may have better luck though!

 

Welcome. Should be some places by Chicago. Thanks for the update.

 

Unfortunately, the only convertible shops I could find at the time were upholstery shops that would replace the fabric but wouldn't replace the wiring or the sensors. I think it would be about the same amount of labor, but it might be cheaper if there's a convertible top shop or mechanic that'll do it that charges less than $100 per labor hour or somehow knows how to do it without having to remove the top. I did manual operation of the top until I sold it, so I stopped looking for places that would repair it.

 

Ok, thanks for the info. I used to know some shops here that would do something like this. They did not charge that much, maybe like 50-75 per hour. BMW convertible hardtops and VW EOS hardtop convertibles is what they worked on also. If those top bend it was like $10K replacement as they are much more complicated.

 

Hi everyone,i have 2005 mini cooper convertible roof is refusing to go down. I have no noises no lights flashing the windows don’t go down on sunroof switch but does on all others The micro switch in boot clicks okay when I go to activate the roof I get no lights on my micro switches at all no flashing nothing and if I put headlights on, I can see a faded light in switch so I presume there’s power also not sure how to remove sunroof micro switches if somebody could help with a diagram was thinking some solenoid in quarter panel as i took to mini and they didn’t have a clue and fuses are okay so

This is the paperwork Mini dealer gave me to says roof not opening. Ridiculous.
not sure

 

Hello,

Yes they should be able to tell if the roof motor does not work or if its a hall sensor that bad.

Its hard to diagnose without a fault code which is an internal code, like something our schwaben scan tool would pick up.

 

I have received a few emails requesting the videos because Google Drive has changed how they share videos. I updated the links in my original comment, and they are also included below:

(Video links updated 4/10/2023)

Video 1 Link

Video 2 Link

I'm not active on this forum, but I will try to remember check this post periodically.