An idea - joinm or hook up with a local mini club and see what the members are running... very informative, and can usually get you some track time and instruction fast and inexpensive.

What I'd do? New wheels/tires (personalizes the car fastest, improves performance), intake, exhaust, 19mm rear sway bar, something on the inside to make it "yours" (mild audio upgrade?) and go from there.

 

2% crank...problems like running without the balancer on the factory unit, harder on the motor, can create excessive heat. Some of the tuners that are against this will say that it depends on your level of mods, some are entirley against it. Some tuners that say it's like taking 100lbs off your car aren't really tuners, but people that sell tuning products. Pick who you listen to carefully.

I wouldn't go with a product just because it has a certain company's name on it like the rotors.

He mentioned M7 plates and bar. They are separate items. Some '03's have clearance, some don't, some 'soak and slam' fine, some don't...*shrug*

USS - just saying to look around and communicate with other owners. Several have had to use what seems like an excessive amount of spacers to make it fit, most don't have to do that, some have rattling from professional install, most don't.

Just make sure to research your purchases thoroughly and don't buy soley because it's made/sold by X company.

 

The M7 STB comes with the reinforcement plates. True you can buy them, the plates, not the bar, seperatly, but why would you do that? Also Mini Tyler, I installed the Alta exhaust and CAI myself, save your money do it yourself. Hardest thing was to get the car in the air . I like my M7 rotors, but there are many out there, no big deal. As for the crank . cya

 

...just wanting to make sure he doesn't buy both of them since he mentioned both of them

 

PLEASE hear me out!!!

I was in a similar position about 9 months ago.... And if I've learned anything in that 9 months.... and trust me, i've learned a lot!.... It's that the true bang for your buck on these cars is a high performance head. See... https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=93689

Sure, it'll cost you half of your budget, but you'll get much more in return. Especially on future mods!

 

I am no longer getting the drilled rotors, looking around some more for slotted ones. thanks for the input on further research. I purchased the Alta equip alread and the H&R coil overs....maybe I will just try to sell the 2% if its going to be a problem.

I'll look into the USS some more.

thanks

 

I'd consult a couple of tuners about the 2% before doing/not doing it. You might decide it's ok as it has been for many here on NAM. Try DMH, FireballedBrian/Tuls and maybe Chad from Detroit Tuned or the Helix guys.

 

So I am purchasing the final pieces for the suspension today...

Helix Camber Plate, M7 STB, Alta 19mm Rear Sway Bar, Alta rear endlinks, and either HS or Alta rear control arms....

Anyone have any advice on which control arms I should get?

 

EZ 1 that is Free: push black pedal to right of floor board down very far with right foot

 

Control arms really arent necessary.... neither are those endlinks, but if you feel like wasting some money, be my guest.

 

I run the full JCW suspension, mostly because at the time I couldn't go with a more agressive drop. It's nothing special. I suggest H-Sport springs if you're looking for performance. I'll be upgrading to those in the near future.

 

Most of the problems with the 2% crank pulley have to do with blower cavitation due to being overspun, etc. Lightened cranks by themselves won't really do anything. These motors are internally balanced. If you're really concerned about the weight, and worried that it'll cause problems with the ligher +2% pulley, go with the 05+ crank pulley. It's several lbs lighter than the 03 one.

What Montoya said is correct. Putting a 15% pulley on your car and upgrading the head you will see more gains than every single mod you have listed there. The head is the restriction on these cars.

FWIW the general concensus is that you'll be breaking belts like crazy with anything more than a 15% pulley, especially if you're still using the stock belt.

If I were to start over knowing what I know now, and what I spent, my mods would go something like this.

Koni FSD's with H-Sport Springs ~ $800
Alta 19mm Rear Sway
ATE Powerslot Slotted rotors with Hawk HPS Pads ~ $600
ATE Superblue Brake Fluid ~ $40
SS Brakelines ~ $80
Alta V2 15% Pulley ~ $140
El Diablito Header Not sure, probably about $800
El Diablito Big Valve Head $2500 Installed
Exhaust of your choice (I like the Ultrik Dual Sequential, but I have the Invidia and it's been fine) ~ $800.
Alta CAI ~ $230
Believe it or not the Stock IC is performing well with the mods I have, it's so light it hardly ever heatsoaks. I'll eventually swap it out for a Water to Air or a FMIC, but for now i'm going to keep my stocker .

With the mods I listed above you should be between 215-230 whp (245-260 bhp). You'll still be fairly close to your original 6k budget as well. . Contact Jan at Revolution Mini Works. Trust me!

I can't link his website (Because NAM is retarded and blocked it) but you can e-mail me on your own time for more info, or just google it.

 

[QUOTE=JIMINNI;1482149]Problems with 2% crank? Like what? Tuners are saying changing the crank is like saving 100lbs. of car weight.

If you go with M7 rotors they come cross drilled and slotted, no choice.QUOTE]


My .02 is that ALL the aftermarket main crank pulleys are bunk, because they have no harmonic balancing function. Install an '05 MC crank pulley instead: two pounds ioghter, and harmonically balanced. You risk destroying your oil pump at high rpm''s from vibration stresses if you put in an un-damped pulley.

There is a lot of hype around brakes.

Slotted and drilled rotors are NOT better for 99% of us, except in competition driving. There is a lot of hype around brakes. Slots and drills reduce mass, bad in a brake rotor, and weaken the rotor. Sure, they LOOK cool, and that can be important (!) but it is very common to have stress cracks at every drill point on rotors after hard use. I've seen them. Check for yourself. The slots eat pads faster and give no benefit unless gassy pads are used. And even then, you don't really need them. If you have anitlock brakes (and who among us doesn't?) stopping in all but the most extreme cases depends on TIRE ADHESION! Your antilock system will kick in long before your pads outgass, or your rotors overheat. Have any of us experienced brake fade while NOT on a track? I doubt it.

I AM a fan of SS lines, and larger diameter (smooth) rotors w/alloy hats (they vent better), because they offer deeper heat sink, and firmer pedal, w/no weight gain. Add some GOOD pads, and hi-temp fluid, and you will have better modulation and no chance of fade in street driving (even HARD street driving, canyon burning or autocrossing). Space your calipers out for the larger rotors and you have an awesome set of anchors... IF you have good tires! It's all about the tires.... and the heat sink.

The big brake makers and sellers don't want you to know this stuff, but an engineer will tell you. Outgassing is rare, the improved cooling in a drilled rotor is outweighed (IMHO) by stress cracking (IF you ever get them that hot to begin with, and if you don't, why do you have them at all?), and slots eat pads and further reduce surface area, as do drills. I am about to do the above mentioned upgrade (larger smooth rotors w/alloy hats, SS lines, fluid and pads, caliper spacers) after exhausting research into Stoptech, Wilwood, Brembo etc. Lots of $$$$ for less bang... or is it screech?

Just my .02.

Now I brace for an onslaught of replies debunking my points. I suspect they will all have slotted and drilled rotors, but just remember physics and engineering.