Help , cooling fans won't go on after clutch job
 

Sorry for the lack of punctuation I'm doing speech to text because I'm wearing gloves trying to figure this g** d*** thing out I've double checked every wire every wires plugged in my coolant is good my battery voltage is good my relays are good my fuses are good why aren't my cooling fans turning on even when I activate my AC and stuff nothing I just got doing done doing my clutch I double triple quadruple checked that everything was plugged in and correct which it is and I still don't have cooling fans I did remove the AC compressor but that should not have An effect on the cooling fans turning on my other 04 I removed the AC compressor they turned on i still left the sensor in the back and everything so can someone please help me here

That happened to me a few months ago, I unplugged the fan and ran a direct wire to the fat red wire (I think it was red) from the battery post next to the airbox, and a ground to the black wire. Nothing worked, so I replaced the fan and the resistor attached to the upper right side of the fan shroud. CHANGE THE RESISTOR!! When the resistor goes bad, you first lose the low speed, then the fan only works on HIGH speed and works super hard to cool the radiator. Do a search here on NAM for overheating and the process I mentioned is well detailed.

I believe it is the resistor , I whacked it a few times abd it worked the whole way home..maybe the plug terminals were dirty , idk. Ille look into it more to make sure they're working tomorrow..

With a fan setup that uses a ballast resistor to provide low fan speed operation the ballast resistor can crack. They run hot and yet are pretty durable. But with another brand of car with two radiators and two fan motor wiring harnesses each with its own ballast resistor the techs told me what often happens is if some one is at the car the wiring routing is not restored to the factory routing and the wiring can just get wadded up/stuffed into a cranny. This "holds" the wiring but the resistor being out of the radiator air flow can run even hotter. Also, if not properly routed/secured it can be subject to water splash and cold water on a hot resistor...

Even with the wiring being unmolested one resistor failed. The fan ran at high speed all the time.

If you are having problems with your low speed fan on your first generation MINI, then you need this relay kit to fix the bad diode. This will work for both fan units, the one connector harness, or the two connector harness. You just need to wire it in a bit different than the directions show. Very simple and easy to install, and saves you from having to buy a whole new fan assembly at a cost of $290.00!

The only way to truly test the fan is with one of several special programs on the market. You hook it up to the car, like a code reader, then you can turn the fan speeds on one at a time to make sure they both work. Without this program, you can turn the air conditioning on and let the car idle. The fan will run in low speed for a few seconds, every 60 seconds.

Give us a call if you have any questions, but we have installed many of these kits, and they work great.

NOTE: Most cars have a one plug fan and the kit will install like the directions, but if you have a car that has two plugs, then your relay is up in the fan. This kit will still work just fine but has to be wired in a bit different. See the photo of how to wire it in above or see our great how-to below. The green wire is no longer used and the red wires hook up in the same manor, just one of them come out of the relay now. With a bit of grinding on the plastic housing, you can clip the relay in like shown.https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-zhkc...610219.jpg?c=2Hopefully this helps...

Testing if the resistor is the issue can be done with few tools, by disconnecting the fan plug(s) and providing power on the right pins.

2004 and after (the switch was somewhere during 2003, october I think) have a single plug, and replaceable resistor.
2003 and before models have 2 plugs, a strange electrical diagram and in theory non-replaceable resistor (you gotta change the whole fan assembly), but you can find a compatible resistor if you'd rather not change the whole fan assembly.

I diagnozed my 2002 r50 using that video, and would you know it, the resistor was bad.

I also use this product called DeoxIT cleaner which instantly cleans & restore electrical contacts & terminals , on my Mini when disconnecting electrical connectors.

Resistor is junk... idk how it happened to me a 3rd time but only thing I can think of wgat wrecked it was when I burped the coolant from the bleeder. I also rinsed it down ( I thought carefully) with water to clean it off the eng n lower stuff.. ugh, same exact thing happened when I did my head n cam in my other mini too..
derderder Adam !
ille have to fig out ny spare fan I have..might as well toss on my other rad I have also since the one on the car has been impacted n bent.
ille get around to it in the next few days and will post back if it forsure forsure fixed it or if I have some other issue. Though I heard ny p.s fan running...

I installed my old fan and it's all now working correctly.
lol I DID wreck the resistor that powers the lowside , AGAIN..
I tested the old fan just to verify it was indeed just the lowside not working and it was forsure the issue..
I ordered a resistor now just to have on hand encase I do this agaagain.. but for now on like I did today, I will wrap a towel around the bleeder valve and loop it under to catch anything that'll drip down..
But I usually don't even need to bleed it..while my cars front end is still on jackstands so the bleeder is then at the highest point , I then fill it and open the bleeder and after it's sat 10min while I continually fill the reservoir, I then blow into the reservoir until I see a little coolant start to dribble out the bleeder valve.
then after I start it and it reaches 200degrees F i then crack the bleeder juuuuuuust to make sure all the air is out.