Hello,
I'm still happy with my MCS, but there is some problems:

- the coolant expansion tank leaks, it was replaced some years ago. I purchased an aluminium tank wich seems fine.


- the oil change was one of my worst... My 36mm socket was too big, it is designed for wheel bearing, I order a specific one for Mini, but I wreck it on first try !
it seems that the PO uses his muscles :-(
I order a 36mm low profile socket 1/2", and with the help of a 1m pry bar it was OK, hopefully the canister and the filter housing are not damaged.

- I have to use the same pry bar for the wheels screws.

- after reading many topics here, I choose the KONI FSD, now Special Active, shocks. I place 2 orders without success, nobody have the right front shock in stock.in Europe, the delay is August, maybe September or next year.
The price and stock at ECS Tuning is very interesting, but not after adding shipping and fees to France.
The ride is absolutely awful on bumpy roads, and the mushrooming shock tower is clearly present, I have to change the suspension now. So I will probably order the Bilstein B4, there is only some in stock. No B6 in stock too.
I will made a kind of strut tower plate reinforcement between the shock and the tower in 3mm steel, and probably add something above.
But it's complicated, the VIN number is written in this area, and with a plate above it could be a problem.
I check the suspension, original DELPHI shocks and springs S228 sport plus, I don't know if this has been changed. there is an old trace of oil leak at the right front.


- I change the cracked upper engine mount


and today I discover that the right glass don't move. the F1 fuse is OK.
The left mechanism has been changed 10 years ago, now it's the other.

I don't know if there is a record, but I'm the 11th owner of this poor MCS.
I have NEVER sold a car before, since my first in 1988 which I always have, and I hope to drive it as long as possible.

 

Welcome Olivier bon chance!

 

Welcome Olivier bon chance!

 

Search YouTube for this issue, quite often it is a dirty window motor.
There are videos on cleaning it and a temporary fix (hitting the door panel) that actually works.

Oh, since you've changed to the aluminium expansion tank, do yourself a favor and replace the radiator cap regularly.
The plastic expansion tanks will not only leak from the heat of the exhaust, but it will act as a pressure relief (by leaking) if the radiator cap goes bad and doesn't allow excess pressure to escape. The expansion tank will leak before the plastic tanks on the radiator, you've now taken that extra insurance out of the equation.

And welcome.

 

Hello, I change the dampers, for B4, because it was the only choice for complete the change before my holidays.
It was easy at the rear, I discover that the right Delphi leaks too. The 2 are absolutely worn, like bicycle pump...
But at the front, it was not so easy. On the right side, the Delphi don't came out of the hub carrier as I see on some youtube videos. So I have to disconnect the hub carrier from the suspension.
But on the left side, I could slip out the Delphi without removing the hub carrier.
Maybe it's in relation with the mushrooming, but it seems worse on the right side.
The 2 front dampers are also worn.

I discover when I try to put the B4 that its cylinder is longer, so I can't put it in the hub. And I'm not able to disconnect the hub.
So I have to compress the spring, just a little, et voilà.

I also put the 17" R85 S-lite with new Goodyear F1 asymmetric 6.



I finished the car the night before my travel to camp in Britany, everything was Ok.



I'm back at home, and disapointed by the B4, it's way better in confort than the old Delphi, but there is no gain in handling, it's too soft. The B4 for my peugeot 406 are better in handling. In some months I will probably change these dampers.

 

The Sport Plus suspension may be the worst ever put on a car. The ride is unbelievably harsh, especially if you also have run-flat tires. I replaced mine with Monroe QuickStruts (integrated strut/spring). The ride is much more compliant but still provides great handling.

 

First a belated welcome.

Oil change - if the PO tightened the filter cover that much, he's an idiot. Should only be 18 ft-lbs (24 newton-meters). Also, get one of these for the fit issue.
https://www.outmotoring.com/3-8-driv...mm-socket.html

Hopefully a timely caution - if you haven't swapped out your original crank pulley / harmonic balancer for an ATI, you're on borrowed time. They like to come apart internally (rubber fails) and split in half, instantly putting the car into limp mode and leaving you stranded. Can also do worse damage (overheating, low voltage etc) but typically that's it. Kind of a day ruiner if you're out camping...

 

Hello,
some news from my Mini, I change:
- front suspension bushings (Powerflex) and ball joints
- front anti roll bar bushings (Powerflex)
- belt 6PK1368, I found somewhere on the net a calculator for the right belt length according to the pulleys, hopefully it was the same length
- crank pulley (OEM)
- header and catalytic converter (Malian)

I dismount all the front sub assembly to change the ball joints and bushings.


the next step will be the front braking system, I will upgrade to the R56 rotors, calipers and pipes.

 

About that front suspension, I've posted about this solution elsewhere on NAM and some folks are probably tired of hearing me suggest it. After having the typical rough ride I inserted steel, under-tower reinforcement plates from Craven speed (available at Madness Autowerks) then installed KONi's with polyurethane all around. Unfortunately, the 21st century potholes in my area were still destroying the strut bearings. After careful calculation I took the plunge on a new set of 15" wheels and mounted non-run flat tires and that was the ultimate cure. Now the MINI shrugs off the potholes and still cuts a good line through the curves. There is a lack of response, for example during quick lane changes, but it is negligible and the smoother ride is definitely a fair trade off. This will only work if you can get brake caliper clearance, I could be wrong, but I think the JCW big brake kit is too large for 15" wheels. I have a larger set of BMW caliper on the front and was still able to fit the smaller wheels, since you are shopping for a brake upgrade this is something to consider. Although the low-profile tires offer the best agility when making sharp moves on the street, they also fail to absorb any shocking impacts from the road surface, sending most of the force straight into the struts. With added rubber and air volume, those impacts get minimized, saving your strut bearings on top. It got so bad I was replacing one almost annually.

 

I forget it but i made some under-tower reinforcement plates, in 3mm thickness steel plate, with anti rust paint.
but i m not ready for 15" wheels ;-)
i will add some photos.