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anyone in Front End Service mode (or further apart) and have a tape measure handy?
I picked up an 05 Coop S from a tow-away auction back around Christmas that had been 'thumped' in the nose off-center to the left. Damage took out the bumper, condenser and radiator (along with the fan and radiator support). I'm at a rebuild point of it running/driving (albeit around the garage) and need to start body reassembly. At issue is the studs on the 'horns' that support the rad support and bumper (not the lower arms, the body color chassis area with two studs and the long bolt). I need to know how far apart these studs are supposed to be (left to right) on an undamaged car. The bumper I got from a wrecking yard will bolt up with the exception of the lower support arm which needs about a 1/4 inch (about 13mm) of movement in. The issue is the radiator support. Lining up the bolt holes on the right side (left as you look at the front), the left side holes are 3/4 inch (about 19mm) in from the studs. So I either got the wrong bumper (although I was told it came off an 04 R53) or the new rad support is off. Can someone measure the distance between the two studs (left to right) and let me know what your dimension is? (mine is 32 inches (81.3 cm+-) center to center). Your help would be greatly appreciated
Of your talking about the 2 parts which bolt onto the subframe with 2 big bolts each, you need to slacken the bolts off, then bolt the large metal bumper part that sits in front of the rad, then tighten the subframe bolts.
Of your talking about the 2 parts which bolt onto the subframe with 2 big bolts each, you need to slacken the bolts off, then bolt the large metal bumper part that sits in front of the rad, then tighten the subframe bolts.
The above mentioned parts are the Crush Tube's.
And yes, as stated above, you start the long bolts, but leave slack in them so the tubes can move, align and tighten the Core Support, Bumper, and bolts in the front of the Crush Tube's then tighten the Crush Tube Bolts just before you put the Bumper Cover on.
I can't bolt it up because the holes don't line up. Hence I need to know how far apart the studs on the chassis horns are supposed to be to see if I got a bad/wrong radiator support or wrong bumper.
If the holes don’t line up with the crush tubes loosened, it seems more likely to me that the chassis is bent than that both the new core support and bumper are damaged. There are other differences, but I’m pretty sure the mounting holes on those parts should line up the same for all the first gen cars.
If the holes don’t line up with the crush tubes loosened, it seems more likely to me that the chassis is bent than that both the new core support and bumper are damaged. There are other differences, but I’m pretty sure the mounting holes on those parts should line up the same for all the first gen cars.
Either that, or you accidentally swapped the Crush Tube's left-to right, they will fit that way on the Frame Horns.
crush tube on the left side doesn't line up with the bumper but as said I need to loosen it and see if thats the issue with it because the frame horn studs do. Its the rad support that I'm beginning to guess was made wrong. Not sure how a manufacturer can get the holes this far off position tho
If I measured the right studs, I came up with 32 inches on my R50 as well.
edit: actually I think more like 807 mm. My car is currently in a position where it's a bit hard to get to the those studs. I'm parked about two inches behind my Audi.
I was picturing things wrong in my head, so I misunderstood your question initially. Now I see what you're asking.
To be clear, I measured the c-c distance between the upper stud marked by an arrow in fig. 13 of this link and its counterpart on the other side.
Last edited by deepgrey; Apr 11, 2022 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: add image link
I'm pretty sure the holes in my rad support don't center up exactly left-to-right on those studs. From one of my old pictures, it looks the studs may be sitting wider than center of the holes in the support, but it's hard to tell because the shot is at an angle.
To clear up a few things, the core support frame rail ends are the true crush tubes and the air bag triggers are mounted upon them for proof of such. Yours is likely damaged. They fold in on themselves perfectly as designed so it takes a close look. I'm finishing up this little project myself after my daughter tail ended someone. The drivers side core support frame rail was shortened by 2" It takes almost 4" to catch the airbag in the face. Way has cut frame rails on eBay for $25. Buy one, do the math and weld it on. Use the new bumper backer as a position jig. I have pics on my phone/
OK check the difference is space between the mount and the strut brace in these two pics. Then you'll see the rough fitting process, My tailgating welder and the finished section going back together. An insurance company would have totaled it. I actually tacked two small pieces of steel inside the new section that acted like a sleeve to provide exact fitment. Its perfect. original and crushed 2" Ebay frame section rough fitting using the (new) bumper as a jig. Thanks WAY you saved my *** with this! Tailgating welder fixing her booboo. Lots of life lessons being learned. new piece in, ground down and painted. Its perfect and will take a careful eye to spot the repair. welded and painted. look at the difference in gap between squashed and replaced.
These frame rails are super soft. They are designed to absorb energy and they do it extremely well. I think Its pretty cool that we have an affordable source to repair it. Thanks again @WayMotorWorks Dude is really switched on.
Bill, I just knocked mine together this afternoon, went pretty smooth. Only a couple of well placed kicks required. Remember to keep the lower bumper brace bolts loose until the very last and give them an occasional smack with a hammer to keep things sorted. Use the stubby looking things in the face frames to keep stuff centered.